Attaching steaming light to mast

[Guest]

My steaming light was ripped off in some strong winds (must have been the heads'l) and now I'm trying to fix on a new one. The old one was attached using a shaped block of wood epoxied to the mast. The wood was splintered and covered in lichen. There are four old tapped screw holes in the mast which were not used for the old light and that do not match the new one I purchased.

 

How should I fit the new light given that the back of the light is flat, the mast is curved and I don't want to drill new holes in the same area? I felt that some sort of backing plate (aluminium) attached to the light and then through the old holes to the mast.

 

How do I match up holes on the backing plate with the existing holes, and how can I work out what size screw fits the holes given that I'll be swinging around on the end of a rope trying to do all this?

[PaulR 3]

Several options to consider.

 

The combination Steaming/Deck light comes with a "wrap around" side piece that may be easier to fit, than a square backed light you describe.

 

Most yachts have their steaming light at the height of the spreaders. This gives good height to be easily seen even in a heavy sea and/or storm. Combination deck light units at this height give good spread of light as well, without being over bright and blinding.

 

Are you fitting LED's?

 

I know one yacht that put it's steaming light at the height that the person could easily reach by standing on the boom or a small step ladder, so he did NOT have to go up on a halyard to change the bulb. Has some merit I think, but the combination steaming / deck light units may be too close to the deck, creating too much bounce and reflections to the cockpit crew and helm.

 

Holes.

Tape a piece of paper over the holes and with a pencil, make a rubbing, or simply poke the pencil through the paper and make a hole. This will give you hole size as well, as the pencil is conical, unlike a straight drill bit. Having extra layer of masking tape where you make the holes reduces the "tearing effects" that reduces the hose sizing accuracy.

 

Placing the paper on a half round of pvc pipe, about the size of your mast, will then allow you to drill holes easily into the PVC pipe offcut in about the right places as up on you mast. Real clever people would first use a heat gun to warm up the PVC pipe and then press and let it cool against a lower portion of the mast first.

 

With your 3rd or 4th attempt at PVC moulding, you will now have a very close match to your mast's existing holes. Others may suggest using both heat gun & drilling when up the mast but . . . ??

 

Now you can drill from the INSIDE of the mast OUT to your new Mounting Bracket, the mounting holes as required.

 

Screws. These are a pain to use up a mast, and they never land on the deck once dropped. I would suggest POP RIVETS. Aluminium will be good enough as this light fitting will not be load bearing, you hope. Stainless are OK but you are mixing metals, and monel cost heaps for this job.

 

Rivets are not exactly fussy about hole size as they create their own backing, unlike a screw that will fall out when you go into a decent motion stopping wave, or hit a whale.

 

For some, it may be easier to take the mast out, and work ashore as one can replace the wiring if required, check & grease sheeves, check split pins etc.

 

I would recommend taking a photo of your wiring & Bulb etc without the cover on for future reference.

 

The square type nav lights with push on clip release may benefit by fitting a cable tie top & bottom. (Black for outside / in sun use).

 

I may have left out heaps but hope this helps.

 

BE WARNED. DROPPING A HOT HEAT GUN BETWEEN YOUR LEGS WHEN UP IN A BOSUN'S CHAIR HURTS MORE THAN NORMALLY!!

 

 

Pain is best in the past!!

[Guest]

Thanks PaulR, that gives me lots to think about.

[Kiteroa 8]

I'd just shape a new wooden block and stick it to the mast with 291 Sika. Then screw the light into the block. A lot less mucking about. No screws into the rig to catch halyards etc.

[Murky 3]

At the risk of making the job bigger by adding to the outstanding advice above...

 

A fair number have been built with a "cage" of stainless rod surrounding the steaming light to protect it from being wiped by the headsail as you describe.

 

It sounds like the wooden block system has actually held out pretty well, so you might be happy to deem that good enough and carry on with that.

 

Or this could be an opportunity to go the cage way. If you do, make sure it is designed in such a way that - unlike mine - you can open up the light to replace the bulb without needing to remove the whole cage.

 

Good luck. Over the years I have also found myself considering Paul R's "max height of steaming light = comfortable height to work from ladder" principle.

[Guest]

Thanks for all the input!

 

I was looking at the wrap around fitting with LED's, just as I got to the price I could swear that the sales assistant leant over and gave my balls a squeeze. After that it was an easy decision: I'll be running my engine if the steaming light is on so it is not a priority to save power. The current spreader lights can be replaced with LED's.

 

The height of the light has already been determined by the wiring……just above the spreaders.

 

The light is not that expensive that I need to put wire cages around it. I think that if it lasts a few years - at least 5 years for the last one- it won't be tragic if I lose it again.

 

I'll probably go with a block of wood (teak) and epoxy again, it's the path of least resistance.

[wheels 544]

I could swear that the sales assistant leant over and gave my balls a squeeze.

Oh so there are cheaper now huh? The guy used Vice Grips when I bought mine.