What's the best product for teak joinery?

[sow1ld 2]

Ffs Id & Bts the pair of you are behaving worse than my 4ry old! Hi jacking a simple post to carry out youre own pissing contest. You both look like a pair of wallys whilst souring this whole thread. Grow up! If neither of you can do that & you really must carry on this pissing contest then can you flop it out see whose is bigger declare a winner end the bull sh*t so us folk can get back to enjoying what everyone else has to say for a change

[Pumbaa 9]

i've always enjoyed painting and varnishing boats and bits of boats, not the house though. A good rule of thumb is "if it hard wearing it's hard to repair/prepare if it's easily damaged it's easy to repair. So I would, like I said before, use the hardest coating in heavy use areas that are easy to sand back but then use a soft coating for harder access areas. Nothing looks like deep varnish but it needs to be done at least yearly. A 2 pack mast might go 2 years but then it's a hideous job to redo. Water based products to my knowledge still lack the high gloss finish. Broadoak are you going to have a satin finish throughout? And what boat have you bought?

[rigger 47]

Hope this explains

 

Thanks

[broadoak 0]

Hi Pumbaa, Yes we would like a satin finish. The teak fiddle rails around the galley are in need of refreshing the most, the other cabinetry is quite good, however I will re- do that as well, probably over the next year. We have bought a Lotus 1280, which we are really enjoying.

[idlerboat 116]

Job done.

BTS has (with far more knowlege than I could have), the move to low VOCs.

The differance between "water borne" and "water based".

For me it is such a pitty that so much of what I said got lost ....

BTS got a big ride with isosyinates...

I never pushed that point, but is obviously sensitive to him.

It seems that just about everything these days will shorten our lives, but my dad died of asbestos .......

the most brilliant solution to a whole range of problems.

I never trust a person yet who says it aint killed me yet...........no matter how hard or long lasting the product.

As was quite clear in my posts, it was my opinion.

...and still is.

[RushMan 31]

Have you two finished comparing the size of your .... Collective wisdom yet?

 

BTS - You sell paint? You have a vested interest and knowledge to share.

 

Idlerboat - You use paint? You have practical experience to share.

 

So far Idler has told what products he uses and why he uses them, BTS has given lots of confusing technical jargon that should be used at a trade show, not on a forum.

 

So far Idler's advice has my vote

[banaari 27]

So far Idler's advice has my vote

Ditto. Credibility of posts inversely proportional to vitriol content.

[John B 106]

Yeah its a nasty piece of work of a thread isn't it.

Idlers first comment seems to me to be more about exterior varnish. I don't know too much about water based finishes myself .

But for relevance to the thread topic for broadoak ,which is about interior joinery, my boat was originally finished inside in 1975 with a product called Indothane.There's virtually no paint inside the boat at all. That brand is still marketed but may well have had its ingredients changed over the years , a bit like the old goldspar varnish has changed over the decades.

Anyway, its a satin polyurethane 'varnish' presumably sprayed on at build and most of it seems original to me. Some is quite bleached but as a product you'd have to say its done well.

When I look at how well the poly floors in my house have stood up over the years, I'd be happy to continue with a non marine poly for the inside of the boat. No UV inhibitors but I don't think thats an issue.

[B00B00 310]

Idlerboat, it seems you have quite a bit of experience with this and give good positive information.

I have a teak veneer interior in my boat, the varnish is quite old, probably original from 1987 and I would like to tidy it up.

The veneer is splitting slightly in some areas that have seen a lot of sun and water but its not too bad yet.

 

What do you think is the best way to tidy it up and what varnish should I use? I have no idea what is on there now but its quite a mat finish which i like, not a glossy fan.

What grit sandpaper should I attack it with and how much do I need to sand it back? how many coats need to go on and again what grit sandpaper should I sand it with between coats?

Sorry I cant be bothered reading the 5 pages of crap, just want some advice from someone with a good idea.

[wheels 543]

I have not read through this entire Thread. But what I have read, I have to say that...dare I say it....BTS has some quite correct comments.... in between the arguments.

 

Actually guy's, Water based products are not necessarily "safe" or "green" as many companies would have us believe in the way they are marketing it. In fact research is suggesting some water based products may actually be releasing more harmful chemical vapors into our environment than the old tried and true solvent based products. It's not the water, it's the other chemicals that have to be used in the paint to make it do the job.

 

Bondal have a very nice product very similar to Goldspar, but I would have to say, it seems superior in application, finish and so far seems to have good UV stability. Available in Spray Can and I notice that Mega 10 now stock it in both Spray and in Tins. I used Goldspar on the Pilot House surfaces and have been disappointed with how it has faded with UV. The Bondal on my Steering wheel outside in the Rain and Sun still looks good as new.

 

Booboo, you always want to apply at least 3 coats and the more coats, the better the UV protection with a clear coating. 5 is good for long lasting finish.

[Farrari 4]

Idlerboat, it seems you have quite a bit of experience with this and give good positive information.

I have a teak veneer interior in my boat, the varnish is quite old, probably original from 1987 and I would like to tidy it up.

The veneer is splitting slightly in some areas that have seen a lot of sun and water but its not too bad yet.

 

What do you think is the best way to tidy it up and what varnish should I use? I have no idea what is on there now but its quite a mat finish which i like, not a glossy fan.

What grit sandpaper should I attack it with and how much do I need to sand it back? how many coats need to go on and again what grit sandpaper should I sand it with between coats?

Sorry I cant be bothered reading the 5 pages of crap, just want some advice from someone with a good idea.

 

I'm in a similar position to Booboo so have been watching the positive parts of this thread with interest (thank IB and now Wheels). I'd also be interested in opinions on the results of hand brushing, roller? vs. spraying. I am also assuming that temperature and humidy are a factor in the overall results so this time of year may not be the best to kick a project like this off?

[Guest]

I've used a water based flooring clear finish with good results to date, some is now 6 years old and still looking fine. I thought if it's good on wooden floors, which it certainly is, it'll be good elsewhere. Knot sure what it is exactly (and have no need to) but I know you clean up with water and sands well. Flows out real good so handy for those with marginal brushing techniques. I think it's a Resene product but will check 2morrow.

 

BTS, your problem here (and in some other threads) is just the same as me singing Stairway to Heaven. The song is great but if I started vocalising it most people would probably throw up in disgust (and quite frankly I couldn't blame them). In this example I have great material but that is being totally fucked up due to a real sh*t delivery i.e by the way I sing it. That is exactly your problem, knot the info but the delivery of it.

[RushMan 31]

BTS reminds me of Bob Rumson

 

http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0112346/quotes?item=qt0341858

[wheels 543]

Can't be any worse the Rolph Harris KM

 

It is easy to throw around names of products used in Paint, like Urathane, Isocyanate, Varnish and so on, but not all words have the same meaning in one product to another. Varnish for instance has many variables. The term Varnish for instance, tends to cover so many different coatings. Even Polyurathane can sometimes be called Varnish, but Varnish is not always Polyurathane.

One important point to understand. Urathane is made by a reaction involving Isocyanate. It does not matter if the Solvent used is Water or Organic Solvents, if the product is two pot or single. However, some Urathane products may have had the Urathane "made already" and the curing is done with hardners etc. Hence those will be so called Isocyanate free. The reason why the Iso coatings tend to be harder wearing is that the Urathane is actually linking, not just being held together by hardeners.

Moisture Cure is a completely different animal to Water based.

[Guest]

I'm concerned, you actually think stairway to heaven is a good song..... mental note to oneself must not sniff waterbased flooring varnish

Oui careful, it is ya heathen.

And don't worry about that paint, the damage was done years before that got huffed

[Guest]

BTS's style is harsh. But I think it is for a reason.

 

I think? He is trying to get his point across forcefully because he can see the pitfalls of poor decision making on this topic.

 

If you all look to you're own expertise you will all see times where you have to tell some lame headed "dreamer" the cold hard facts in order to save him/her from themselves.

 

I never read tone into forums or emails. Its to dangerous and used to do my head in.

[Island_Moose 0]

If there is already a coat of something reasonably-stable on your joinery then why not consider wax? It's a lot of work, but done right it has a finish that is not gloss no satin...just amazing.

 

A lot of people will say "wax has no place in the marine environment", but if you get salt water splashing on your interior joinery you've got bigger problems.

 

http://www.kiwiboatowner.com/2013/07/interior-woodwork-refinish.html

 

4 coats of Briwax clear applied and buffed with synthetic 0000 wool over 27 year old satin polyurethane. No sanding-no dust. I'll work up to 8-9 coats over the next 6 months, each one adding more depth.

 

 

The sole BTW is finished in Cabot's water-based flooring polyurethane x 3 coats.

[John B 106]

I've been thinking of that brywax myself, we've been using it on villa doors and joinery at home with great results. In fact I just made some picture frames its going on tomorrow.

 

My concern is getting it off in the future , if it needs complete wooding back.

[idlerboat 116]

Hi,

Im not going to stick my head up again,....

but if you ever need to remove a waxed type product, then it is important that you do it at a very slow speed. That is, if you generate too much heat it will melt the wax back into the "clean wood" .

The tecnique is to do light pressure and broad sweeps.

Be very carefull with "full stop" edges. That is where you naturaly tend to linger (your sander stops).

Better to do a hand sand with a figure 8 motion there, and once removed sand along the grain with a smaller grade of paper....

[Island_Moose 0]

I've been thinking of that brywax myself, we've been using it on villa doors and joinery at home with great results. In fact I just made some picture frames its going on tomorrow.

 

My concern is getting it off in the future , if it needs complete wooding back.

 

 

I thought about this before I applied the wax, but then I considered the same question with respect to varnich or polyurethane. Imagine sanding off 4 coats of varnish inside a boat...you'd have dust everywhere.

 

You have to be reasonably-sure before you start, if you go into it thinking you may change your mind down the road, you should stop and re-consider...whatever you do you want to be happy for years. I like wax because when I applied it I went down to the boat with a can and a couple of pads, no cleaning brushes, no masking, no sanding, no drips.

 

I suppose if you did decide to remove it all down the road, you can buy solvents that remove wax without much difficulty. Bear in mind that Briwax is suspended (?) in toluene, which means that any commercial wax remover will take it off with a few rags and elbow grease.

 

Because my wax coats went on over a factory varnish layer, there is no risk of wax 'melting' into the wood grain. It just sits there on top and looks pretty.

 

I think it bears mention that it is not apples-apples....the sheen you get from multiple wax layers is very different from satin or semi-gloss varnish, it's somehwat uneven, but makes the timber look classic and 'seasoned'...like an antique peice of furniture.