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Marine plywood


Whiting 34

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I am attempting to replace the panels that surround and encase the engine having had to cut out the old unit to remove the engine and sail drive.

 

The question is do I need to use marine ply for interior panels or is structural ply from Mitre or Bunnings adequate for the job?

 

Cheers, Ron

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Without giving it much thought I would go for marine BS1088? The material cost is not the biggest part of the job, the difference in cost will be minor compared to the total cost of the job, so why not?

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I've taken out what was construction ply that lasted OK for 25 odd years but I have replaced it all with BS1088 ply. The BS has vastly better quality oversite and build minimums. The price is feck all different, in fact I think the 7mm BS I brought was cheaper than CD tanalised from M10. I was a bit surprised at the price to be honest but in the good way. I'm thinking $50-55 odd for a sheet of 7mm. So I'm seconding Ogre comment for sure.

 

I shopped at Gunnersons and found them very good to deal with, good on price and now having used the ply, good product. I'm using what they have as a replacement for Gaboon, the lightweight ply. I think Gaboon is 550kg a cube where the stuff I'm using is 600kg a cube. It seems we have shot all the wild Gaboons so have to use a replacement raw product.

 

Where I had say 9mm construction ply I'm using 7mm marine ply. I'll end up lighter stronger and better looking................ OK then, at least the boat will :)

 

Gunnersons are just, 100mts odd if coming from the West, off the Patiki Rd motorway turn off. No connection, just a happy shopper.

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I've taken out what was construction ply

You're lucky it was ply. I have seen MDF and what I call Biscuit board or low density fibre board, and all sorts of other rubbish. Whatever was used, was usually only used as a "filler" with the GRP sprayed in a very high build over it to encapsulate it. The "board" used lightly was never intended to be structural in itself. It was to give a shape to lay the GRP around. The GRP being the stuff that has all the strength of course.

 

As a side note, Construction ply that has been treated and treated timber for that matter, is not the best material to use in a role of having Epoxy laid over. The treatment fills the pores and fibres of the wood and stops the Epoxy from penetrating and adhering well.

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yes wherever you can use 1088 ply. what it is saying is that the glue won't fail over time due to moisture

If you want a decorative ply that is not marine bonded make sure it is not being used structurally.

 

If your not sure cut a piece off and put it into a pot of boiling water and see if it falls apart over and hour

 

there are many boats out there where teak ply was used for everything to get that varnished look. what is now showing up is failing glue joints within the ply and then decay quickly up the end grains, not good if it's a structural bulkhead

 

Note for everyone if you cut/ drill a hole - seal the timber, especially in the bilge and behind seatbacks etc on a yacht

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Buying Plywood.

 

I highly recommend Nicholls and Maher.

They carry good stock and they seem to have the best price around in some cases by a good margin.

 

Have used them at work for many years now.

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A certain supplier in a "blue building" in Nelson used to do that. They stamped BS1088 on Marante ply, almost doubled the price from the non stamped ply and sent it over here to Safe Air and the Airforce.

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