Leaderboard

So, 2 years and a few months after starting this little project, she's finished. I'm gonna name her BLOO. After the colour and also because I made so many bloo's making her that I swear she has more construction errors than any other dinghy ever made. 😀 I made her with the intention of fitting her on the foredeck of my Whiting 29. Which I sold 6 months ago. So I no longer need the dinghy. Plus, she doesn't fit in my vehicle so I can't get her to the water to do the maiden voyage. Still, she looks good sitting in a corner of my garden shed🤣 No idea why these loaded upside do

Um, Harrytom was saying POSTS. IS, your chart cannot possibly be POSTS per day - maybe views? If it's POSTS, buggered if I can find that many POSTS. Maybe the figure is VIEWS?

What was the point of "small talk"?? it was a place semi hidden and yes there were a few personal attacks. But no different to a Friday night at the club or away cruising and having different pints of view. Human nature at least there is an alternative site for those discussions. During non racing periods/lockdown/up were those who wanted vent a point of view. Some of it was very humorous even if didnt agree to some content Crew.org now seems to very limited numbers posting.

Yes I'm going through this exercise at the moiment, I went away from dropins, actually they werent even considered seriously because of the downsides. Ive built a pack from CALB 180 Ahr cells, 2P4S for a 360 Ahr battery. But thats the easy bit. Ive got a Wakespeed WS500 reg for a Compass Marine 200A Alt. Again a resonably easy bit. TAO BMS to look after it all, 3 big contactors, 2 x Midnite Kid solar controllers with current shunt charge termination control. I wil be charging my start batt from the old stock alt, so I'll kinda have 2 separate systems. Voltage spikes etc are taken care of

Agree with MCP - but for clarification the supply lead to the switchboard should be a decent battery cable size - and be fused at the battery. If it is, no issue, and not really related to the AP switch, provided that cable has the capacity to carry the extra load. The load of a TP32 is not huge, average about 0.5a, max about 7a...no issues for the 15a switch/breaker.

You are not switching unload, so it will be fine.

Don’t know but they all use the same base elements id try just flooding cockpit with fresh water to start and work the tiller, the higher the water level the greater head to push it through. Lifting the tiller head should let more water through but firstly just try as is, half an hour of playing with your stick should tell you if it’s getting better

Use fresh water. Some of the plastics that are used for bearings will absorb petroleum based lubricants and swell. They are supposed to be self, or water lubricated. Fresh water disolves salt pretty well. If someone has tried to lubricate it before, and it has plastic bushes/bearings, that could well be the issue

I’d be trying flushing it first before you drop it, will need dropping next haulout but it should free up if you get the salt and dirt out. It won’t just drop if you remove the bolt as it’s stiff, try removing the bolt then replace with a longer one so you can work the tiller whilst flushing but it can’t drop too far if it suddenly frees up Chances are it’s a tube from cockpit sole to hull with plastic bushes top and bottom so it can flex between

I don't see anything problematic in the thread so far Wheels. btw, its your night to do the dishes.

Any grids or a wharf that dries?? Trying get rudder back in if it drops hmm might be worth watching🙂

Correct water is heavy stuff. Reminds me, after Xmas must install wash down pump near anchor.

On Netflix.