RedLine
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Posts posted by RedLine
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Hi Pete
this is What I have on squealer. v good but control head is fogging (unit less than 6 months old) can steers to apparent wind, as well as usual compass course.
Need to fit a bigger battery bank to keep track of it though!
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I had something similar a few years back. Till i discovered the rudder tube (was a spade rudder in a tube) leaked at the base of the tube where it exited the hull. had to take it out put some goop on it, then pour epoxy/glass mix around the area on the inside of the hull. that fixed it for good. At rest it didn't leak but with the rudder working at sea there was enough movement to cause water to come into the boat..
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Thks Geoff
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thks willow, will have to get on to it!!
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Hi Did a a Coastguard Advanced Sea survival course back in 2010. And wondered how long they are valid for. If it has expired do you have to re-sit the whole course again or is their a refresher or simple test you can take to re-new it?
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ok after nearly 3 months of solid work the baot hit the water last Tue with a shiny new keel & foil. Wouldnt do this agin though as it took twice as long and twice as much money as i thought it would. Std boat project I guess.
Had the boat planning at 18kts last weekend and beating into 25-30 kts with full main and blade. So its transformed it into a beast!!
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Big weekend, got lots of glassing done on the new keel floors, no pics of glasswork but will stick one in when its finally done, but u can see the pic of the new floor framing I'm putting in. Also the new 780KG Bulb came together with the new strut last Fri. So the project is moving along nicely. Have seen the odd photo of other 930's with new Keels and they dont seem to have done much in the way of frames to take the loads over and above the original frames. I think with 2.4 draft, and that size torpedo, you'll rip the bottom out of the boat eventually if you didnt do too much. So have prob gone overboard, but better to make it too strong rather than have it fail the fisrt time you hit the putty.
Also beefed up the Chain plates, and doubled the length of hull attachment, and replaced all the stainless hardware.
Still lots to do, but hope to be back sailing in time for Spring Racing.
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Having hung the old keel from a Hiab, and worked out its C of G, I have a more accurate idea of where the new keel plate will fit longitudanlly on the hull. So the keel bolt pattern will lay out ont the existing keel floors without having to demolish them all. Ive attached a mock up of what Im planning on doing to the keel floor frames to support the extra load. Am also beefing up chain plates to cope with the extra loads by doubling up the existing ones with ply and glass and extending them thru the shelves further down the hull. See cardboard template passing thru shelf to use full extent of already glassed in stringer.
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Hi KM
You cant see from the photo, but basically the whole thing is made of lead, prob the top 6 inches is solid iroko shaped to fit the hull. Then mine has about a solid 10mm or so of bog, and a total wrap of glass. I'll try to post a photo when all of it is gorund off. Theres no steel can on this keel.
Positioning wise Ive already got Murrays advice on where he fitted it. But when I work it out on my boat, it clashes with the existing floor frames. So Im going to shift the whole thing about 60mm, and hope it doesnt cause the boat to sail on its arse so all the crew have to be on the foredeck!! Just though some mathematical genius would be able to say its the same as adding a 50lb load 4 inches back from the mast, or that it will alter trim by 0.0025 degrees!!
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Hi KM
You cant see from the photo, but basically the whole thing is made of lead, prob the top 6 inches is solid iroko shaped to fit the hull. Then mine has about a solid 10mm or so of bog, and a total wrap of glass. I'll try to post a photo when all of it is gorund off. Theres no steel can on this keel.
Positioning wise Ive already got Murrays advice on where he fitted it. But when I work it out on my boat, it clashes with the existing floor frames. So Im going to shift the whole thing about 60mm, and hope it doesnt cause the boat to sail on its arse so all the crew have to be on the foredeck!! Just though some mathematical genius would be able to say its the same as adding a 50lb load 4 inches back from the mast, or that it will alter trim by 0.0025 degrees!!
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Well IVe taken the plunge and took a grinder to my keel last week, its now lying on the floor next to the boat. Have to say Im impressed with how this thing was attached, taking off keel-bolt nuts does nothing. As Studs are epoxied into the keel, as well as the boat itself, then heaps of glass over the top of the lot, made for a good watertight fit. Just impossible to take apart, unless you use a big grinder and a sabre saw to cut thru the whole thing, which was the onyl way I colud get it off.
Will be melting down the old one after getting the rest of the bog from it, into a new torpedo. Same keel as used on Pepe, Animal Farm etc.
First q I have relates to fore/aft positioning of new keel. The current advice is that new foil leading edge needs to be at approx the 1/2 height position of the leading edge of the old sloped keel foil. But if I transpose that onto the boat my mock up of the new keel top plate bolting pattern would mostly hit the existing floor frames.
So id like to slide the attachment point back 60-90mm aft, so the boltng pattern would fit, and I wouldnt then have to cur and replace too many existing frames. But im not certian what effect that might have on the trim of the boat. eg exaclty how much will lthis trim the stern by. It cant be worse that 3 guys in the cockpit?
The boats stats are LOA 9.3M LWL 8.1M Beam 2.81 Old Draft =1.92M Displacement = 2200kGs
) Im replacing the solid lead fin & small bulb (120kg) total weight around 950kgs max draft 1.92M
2) with a new Foil and 760kg Torpedo Bulb. Total Weight around 870kgs, max draft 2.4M.
Any thoughts on this?
Anti Torsion Rope
in TechTalk
Posted
Just buying a top down furling adpator (from Beau Marine on here) for my code 0 furler, so I can also use the system for a couple of Gennakers.
Im just sussing out Anti-Torsion ropes. I have a good quality 10-11mm halyard (vectran) that I changed for a size smaller, which I could cut into two, and splice the ends into a solid thimble. Would this work as an anti-torsion rope for a furler. I know you can buy special anti-torsion line. But wondering why a tightly tensioned line between the swivel wouldnt do the same job. As most double braid isnt biased L or R, so would think it would be ok??