Crazyhorse

If you DONT see dirt on the bog paper there is something wrong! Oil pump not working properly, blockage, clogged filter, capillarising of the oil lines where heat and pressure turns oil into sludge then crystalises. The oil lubricates, cools and also removes dirt (coke) from valve guides etc but a keen eye can work out how much is in the oil and when a change is needed. Water cooling rises faster than oil temperature, so the viscosity of the oil doesn't change as fast reach its full lubrication until the engine and oil are hot. The biggest wear is on startup, so the more you start an idle engi

Again I warn about use of synthetic oil. Read my previous posts. A bit of bog paper and your dipstick tells you a lot about oil quality (I think I forgot to mention its best done soon after stopping a hot engine, wipe the dip over the paper and look. It's not an exact science but will give you some idea of dirt). You don't need to go paying for analysing oil unless metal other than normal wear is appearing in it. This running your engine to stop rust...the oil film left on bearings, cylinders etc doesn't evaporate of dissapear over time, it remains unless removed by someone (desludging). Ther

"Candle power" is the same when it comes to some Chinese light makers claims!

.....or some banana skins if you are trying to sell the boat..

Found this..interesting. https://www.kc-synthetic-oil.com/toilet-paper-oil-filter.html I know the Aussie made filters fitted to a Mack 500hp "super coolpower" engine did an AMAZING JOB. There were two and they held several bog rolls each and about every week we would simply unscrew the stainless steel tube, take it to bin, tip it in and put new rolls in, run the engine a few minutes then top up with oil. These primies were doing on average 2000km a week, some more. Synthetic is certainly the way to go with automotive engines (the blue smoke should dissapear after the engine warms up an

Never seen One!???:-:

Be very careful using synthetic oil. Ow (?w) is a great idea on modern automotive engines as it is basically "water" when you first start up and lubricated quickly (where most engine wear takes place) but it will start leaking out of your seals on some engines which are designed to run on standard 30 weight mineral oil. I ran synthetic in a Isuzu 2.8lt turbo and was very impressive the amount of blue smoke it blue on startup ("mate..I think ya engines phukd"). As it heats, it thickens and never had a problem but was told never put synthetic oil in yanmars. One Mack CH I drove had synthetic in

True, got confused it does something to the cylinders over time which from memory it scores the liners as coke builds on the rings. Most (most!) gensets etc don't run 24/7 anyway, mostly on demand. I was told change your throttle settings every few hours.

MORE than 223kts!!!!???

I posted this a while back as this topic pops up again. No dramas about starting and engine after a long time of not running. Been a truckie here and Oz and the worst Worst WORST thing you can do is shoot down to the boat and run the engine a little to "keep it lubricated" every now and then. Just leave the dam thing! It's not going to hurt it one bit. You will soon spot those who do, look for clouds of blue smoke. One thing you should do is stuff a rag into your air intake and sump breather when laying over for a while, do it when the engine is still hot then forget about it. The engine i

Going to be a (very!) cold windy day in the Bay!

Combined with decompression leavers (if you have them?)

Wind dying now finally but was biblical in BOIs today. 57kts. R Tucker Thomson in here at Assassination Cove along with loads of others battening down the hatches.

Most laptops require 19v DC to run (chip set and CPU power) and as others have stated, the best 12v DC conversion is to run a simple switch mode power supply to get 12v to 19v. Inverters be it pure since wave or square won't create a problem when using a laptops 240v power supply as the filtering is able to handle the ripple but if you are power conscious, go a direct DC to DC converter. Basically it's a oscillator stepping 12v up to 19v using a transformer so better conversion than inverter and converting down. The Chinese are now producing laptops that are true 12v. However the wattage will

Alternators won't start to produce power below 2000rpm so work out your pulley ratio. Wind gennys are great when a cyclone is about, all other times a lot of noise and nothing at the other end so SPs are the way to go and good storage for rainy days.

A still...hooch rocks!

homemade weedeater 12v mini generator - YouTube https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=J98RihPCbOs

Yep, this is the trouble, they don't exist. Even looked at model aircraft engines that run on distillate but noisy as he'll (would cure the problem of giant wedding cakes that like anchoring on top of us!). YouTube has lots of ideas with small brush cutter engines powering small alternators and that's the direction we are heading in.

I have no problem with that but your are talking an alternator with powered exciter?

This has me confused, sorry Brien but 230v through a inverter!? KABOOM! I think you mean FROM an inverter? Inverters are inherently wasteful and the idea is to not have to step up or step down any voltage but straight DC. All (unfortunatly) portable generators are 230 240v unless you go 60hz 110. To make use of that requires a battery charger which is a great idea with "set and forget" but a simple(?) small engine running a perminant magnet type 3 phase alternator and then a rectifier regulator should work? I am talking the tiniest of engines, 22cc 4 stroke, 3.2kg weight and I would expect abo

Thought the same but then wind turbines would have to fall into that category too, like the one you sold us!? How much horse power is required for the silentwind to put out 20ah? 40?

Googled 4 stroke brush cutter generators and lots popped up. Have been thinking of a permanent magnet alternator hooked up to one of those? All little portable generators are 12/ 240v so a waste trying to charge up batteries but a straight 12v....? (Sorry if hijacking thread!)

Just a thought Muz. Have you run the TP "standing still"? That is, having it powered up, AP engaged and have it somewhere where it doesn't move? (Away from metal objects). There will probably be a little movement of the drive shaft as fluxgates are not accurate but it shouldn't move more than a few cm and return to its orriginal position or not to far back and forth from its orriginal position. Put a mark on the shaft with a marker pen to see how far it travels. Make sure the shaft is half extended before engaging the AP. Get yourself a magnet and try moving that around the fluxgate, the sha

Was given "vivid" last year so tried it, garbage! No copper as its for alloy hulls so has some other biocide in it and loads of barnies after only 6 months.

Old model so no interface. Be Careful pulling it apart as the screws will likely snap off the inside screw threads through age. Once apart, that lumpy bit in the case houses the fluxgate. I use graphite grease but check for movement by tilting the bottom section around a bit. The gimbal should keep it level if not, work the graphite in using a tooth pick and free it up. Don't use CRC! It will effect the varnished windings. I think the button push sequence is the same as the old TP10. Find the instructions and try recalibrating it before surgery!