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Frank

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Everything posted by Frank

  1. Frank

    Wright 11

    That would make a big difference, sounds like a scaled up lotus 10.2 or Wright 10, should be a nice all-rounder .
  2. Frank

    Wright 11

    If it is the Wright Oceans 11 then I think the 1220 would be significantly quicker
  3. Frank

    The Boat

    That's a good video, the hull seems to stay closer to the water than the test mules and the NYC boat, ground effect perhaps ? Maybe they will crank the foils down a bit more when in a chop
  4. Frank

    Bottom Job

    There is a gentleman in our club who has done what wheels said , the boat was a 70's vintage Spencer design. It was semi abandoned and had not been hauled for many years. The blistering was extensive and the blisters large he ground them out then waited until they stopped weeping. That took a long time I can't recollect exactly but is was many months, maybe a year. Then they were filled with pure epoxy glue (West System) and from there the usual paint process etc.it seems to have been successful with no new blisters in the intervening 4 yrs and he was adamant he had done many boats this wa
  5. All good advice, just don't put 2 pot top coat over epoxy without a 2 pot poly undercoat in between.
  6. Interesting ! so that completely rules out the mooring, for comparison my Carpenter 29 at Shelly Park has only ever had two wheels and it has never moved in 25 years. I wonder if successive lift and surveys over the years have seen it incorrectly positioned at some point. It is hard to see how anything else could move it, unless the previous owner allowed a heavier boat to borrow the mooring or somebody parked on it while it was unoccupied. The other possibility is the the HM records for the GPS position are wrong, here's hoping it can be resolved to your satisfaction !
  7. I still have an old Seven Seas marine pressurized alcohol stove in the Carpenter, its been in use for 25 years and was secondhand when we purchased it. There are a few tips n tricks but overall it has been very reliable and cheap to run. I purchase a 20 litre drum of un-dyed meths from TMG in east tamaki about once every three seasons and it costs about $80. The dyed product will clog the burners slowly or at least that is my experience. The flame certainly does not seem to be as hot as gas but you get by and there does not seem to be any moisture issues. Other advantages othe
  8. Adding to all the points above is your vessel bigger and heavier or than the previous boat ? I say this because for it to drift there must have been insufficient weight for your boat, moorings should never drift if configured correctly for the boat. The contractor should be able to comment on that as they keep records of what they survey. That is assuming that the drift did not partly occur with the previous vessel.
  9. I thought an update might be of interest, so today I fitted the assembly and ran the engine at about 2200 revs for 20 min, albeit not under load. I measured a max temp of 70 deg C upstream of the water injection point and about 55 deg just after the injection point. The temp at the manifold end was a bit less so presumably the thermal mass of the cast iron manifold was a factor and the exhaust hose was barely warm. The true test I suppose will be an extended run under load but so far it looks promising and there doesn't seem to be any steep temperature gradients.
  10. Well ours did , the main feed from the bottle is solid copper with a yellow plastic sleeve but the connections at either end are flexible.
  11. Casting the net a bit wide on this one which is somewhat of a long shot but maybe somebody can help. So I have a Volvo MD7B (3000 series) in the Carpenter 29 its mated to a 120S saildrive.(SD) I'm considering fitting a low hrs Volvo 2002 engine and I'm told by the agency that it will bolt straight on. However after careful study I can see there will be a problem with the flywheel housing hitting the top of the SD plinth. The reason is quite straightforward in that the MD7B has the flywheel at the front of the motor but the 2002 has it at the rear, so there is more of the engine protruding
  12. Diving for scallops at kawau a large pod came over and essentially harassed us for an hour, my son got some great underwater footage. They come so close but somehow they always avoid contact even when they are right in your face, amazing creatures.
  13. Frank

    Hard Antifoul

    I have brought some of the new gen Tri-lux 2 , it is a hard AF for anything Aluminium and has some sort of Copper based compound in it. I'm no chemist but I guess it is in some form where It won't cause the Aluminium to corrode, we will see how it goes on the bulb and the sail drive. Speaking of which what do folks recommend for gluing the fairing Boot to the hull ? I have used one of the Sikaflex compounds in the past it was OK but still needs re-doing after 4 - 5 seasons.
  14. Frank

    Heat exchanger

    Chrs, I will get hold of them !
  15. Frank

    Hard Antifoul

    I will try the Vivid Petit on the bulb, something bright , maybe the barnacles wont like the colour.
  16. Frank

    Heat exchanger

    Hi Matt, et-al. Well I have the earlier 3000 series MD7B which is still a good runner but raw water cooled. I'm going to convert it to fresh water cooled. So if you see a suitable heat exchange somewhere please let me know of you there is an outfit that could build one ? chrs
  17. Frank

    Hard Antifoul

    Looks like this stuff might be the closest. https://altexcoatings.co.nz/frontend/products.cfm?page=product&productid=3
  18. Frank

    Hard Antifoul

    That looks to be an Aluminium- safe product,ie no copper, the bulb is the worst part of the boat for barnacles, I'm not sure it would work out for my situation.You have given me a thought though, perhaps copper coat might do the trick.
  19. Frank

    Hard Antifoul

    Looking on the website that seems to be ablative.
  20. Frank

    Hard Antifoul

    Everything seems to be ablative these days, I need some hard black AF for the bulb and lower part of the keel. Does anyone know where I might get some ? chrs
  21. I have a mate who has tried Black Pipe, he found it to be O.K but no better than cast iron, I haven't used it but that was his feedback. That Yanmar unit looks to be the answer so when this one is U.S I will adapt one of those. Another mate fabricated one from Inconel, It was bulletproof, no idea where he got that from. Condenser tubes in the Leander frigates were Thick walled Cupro Nickel (Monel ?) so that's what the navy used.
  22. Doing a coastal classic a few years back on a 38 ft performance cruising cat ( Mini Keels and CB's) we did 12Kn hard on the wind but pointed several degrees lower than a Cav 32 which was abeam.The Cav had a newish wardrobe and I presume was making about 6kn, our SOG worked out to be the same as the Cav. The Lagoon 40 I hired with some work colleagues in 2014 (Belize) sailed like a barge but once the anchor was down it was pure cruising luxury ! As Darkside says 90% of cruising is at rest and that is where the cat wins outright. My mate says the only person who enjoys going to win
  23. There is some irony in your comments Jason because all three OEM elbows lasted about three seasons and then failed by cracking ! they also clogged up internally and rusted from the inside out. When they cracked they leaked hot seawater on to the back of the engine causing yet more corrosion ! They were low quality sand castings so the metal was porous- not helpful. True the top part of the elbow was cooled but the lower part still got very hot. The elbows are investment cast SS my money says they will outlast the cast iron by a factor of two but I accept they will eventually fail not
  24. OK , I have trimmed the pipe right back and added an extension piece and deflector plate, I reckon it should work fine after final welding.
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