Frank
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Posts posted by Frank
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27 minutes ago, DrWatson said:
Sarca EXCEL on all chain and a back up Alu fortress with rode and chain separate from anchor, ready to go.
Gotcha, thx !
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55 minutes ago, Bad Kitty said:
We had a Rocna, great anchor, changed to a Sarca Excel because they don't have a roll bar & that works better for our boat. At least as good as the Rocna, maybe better?
There's a few high holding power designs around now, IMHO they make the old designs like plough's etc. totally redundant. You'd never go back.
I'd track down Grant at Chains, Ropes & Anchors, and have a chat. You'll get exactly what you need without any snake oil.
Agreed !
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I did a search on the forums and couldn't find what I was after so apologies in advance if this topic has been done to death already.
So we are planning to cruise Fiji and vanuatu from May and have been considering the anchor situation. Our boat came with a 25 kg Delta daily use anchor and four spares ie a massive fishermans pick, A Bruce , A Fortress (Danforth style) and a genuine large Danforth. The Fortress and the Fishermans pick can be disassembled for stowage.
We are thinking of
1. Removing the Fortress, fisherman's pick and standard Danforth.
2. Substituting a 25 kg Rocna as the daily use anchor.
3. Keeping the Bruce and the existing 25 kg Delta as backups.
This would simplify the mix and a Study of all the different Tests (A Meta analysis ?) showed that the Rocna was supreme for holding power I think the Delta was very close. The study pointed out that some of the various tests were not well designed and of course I understand there are always lots of variables (we have over 70 metres of chain BTW)
So I would appreciate any feedback on this approach particularly in the context of cruising in fiji
chrs
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Thanks, and I get the impression the Silicone sealants are inherently resistant to hydrocarbons but for sure its not the case with polyurethanes (but maybe some will be)
I happen to have some dowsill 795 structural glazing adhesive which is used to glue panes of glass to skyscrapers, on that basis I am sure it has high adhesive strength. so I might look into that as an option. According to mr Google It seems diesel is quite a complex brew of chemicals " Diesel fuels are complex mixtures of alkanes, cycloalkanes and aromatic hydrocarbons with carbon numbers in the range of C9–C28 and with a boiling-range of 150–390°C. Kerosene-type diesel fuel (diesel fuel No. 1) is manufactured from straight-run petroleum distillates [5]."
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Seeking answers from the brains trust here ! does anyone know of a sealant that is resistant to diesel ?
Burnsco checked with Sikaflex and they advised that none of their products were suitable. I think some Silicone based products may be OK but I would like something with more adhesion, typically a moisture curing polyethylene type product , I will check with Bostik as well.
Chrs
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9 hours ago, ex Elly said:
Three hospitalised after yacht stranding near Rakino Island
Three men were hospitalised last night after their yacht came off its moorings and ran aground on South Island near Rakino Island in the Hauraki Gulf.
https://www.1news.co.nz/2023/04/10/three-hospitalised-after-yacht-stranding-near-rakino-island/
I note that this occurred around the same time as the tornado hit Howick
I presume it dragged its anchor or did it truly come off a Mooring ?, there is only a few in Home bay to the north ?
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8 hours ago, motorb said:
Nowcasting at Tiritiri Matangi was reporting 45 knots northerly around that time so I'd expect that to be the same at Rakino.
Pla eeeese ! the Tornado hit Dannemora we don't get Tornados in Howick, wrong area code
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Vesconite is good stuff, as I understand it most engineering plastics will swell to some extent in water, Vesconite (trade name ? ) is one of the few that doesn't.
I used oil impregnated Nylon for my first DIY rudder bearings it froze the rudder rock solid in a few weeks. I vaguely recall a few years back you could purchase a pourable graphite impregnated epoxy resin and cast perfect bearings with the rudder in situ, don't know if its still a thing.
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11 hours ago, LBD said:
Proper solution...
Take rudder and clamp to a machine shop and ask then to spread the clamp say 3mm, fit a 2mm shim in the gap and tighten up
Set up in a lathe and bore to about 4mm larger than the diameter you accurately measured.
Machine up a stainless steel sleeve about a 2mm wall thickness and slot it just a whisker wider than the key
Clean up the keyways... and make a new good fit key.
Thoroughly clean and dry all components... oil free, and assemble the halves, and key onto the shaft using a little Loctite...
Quick dirty solution...
Dismantle and clean all components oil free, and spread the clamp faces about 1mm.
Assemble with Loctite "quickmetal" or Devcon epoxy metal on the shaft and keyway, and only nip lightly up the clamp. Next day or when fully cured tighten you the two halves to correct tension.
I would be doing the quick and dirty as LBD describes above, any of the epoxy/metal powder products such as JB weld or similar should do the trick, Chatfield engineering probably have bronze key stock and you can buy SS key stock at ANZOR in east tamaki. Then at a convenient time I would take it to a machine shop to bush the tiller head as described.
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Re Selektope, if the picture in the advertising is anything to go by it could be the silver bullet, we have had many false dawns though.
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On 15/03/2023 at 9:20 PM, BNG said:
Crikey Lindsay, you are a stuntman posting that! You might get lambasted by the anti stinkpot brigade even tho you might be an old stick and rag man with a healthy interest in all things marine!
Back on topic.... I have a lot of brightwork. I went oil for the first 4 years then gave it away. Would get 9 months looking good then not so good. Went Awlcraft system 5 years ago and would never go back. Great product. More time on the water with my silent solar setup and my generator sound effect. Just in case..
its clearly a stunt double
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17 hours ago, Steve Pope said:
You are obviously not a gardener
No but my wife is
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+1 for all of Dr Watsons points, the NRC/NDC seem to be quite assertive in policing environmental concerns with boats, e.g last two trips to the BOI they checked on my boats holding tank status but I have never encountered this cruising the Hauraki Gulf. I think once you are living full time on the boat you should expect to come under scrutiny sooner rather than later, not to say It cant be done but I would do your homework on the compliance picture first.
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I'm not a fan of worms, sorry
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Ya gotta love imperial and metric mixes, camera worked well and showed all clear, have since run the motor and all good, yes its unreal how far a dropped fastener can travel.
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Thanks all, I made a vacuum tube as described and tested it on a spare wing nut, it easily latched on from any angle so long as it got within 2 or 3 mm however after many attempts fishing around with it I came up zero so I looked around the engine itself which is in tight space and found it by feel tucked into a groove between the engine bed and the compartment sidewall. I assumed it had gone down the intake but seemingly not. Now I just have to figure if it is the correct one or another that was lost by a previous owner, I might get a USB camera today as a final check before starting the engine. I heard Murphy muttering he will get me next time.
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The topic of importing boats is well covered elsewhere on the forums, but there are many possible pitfalls and costs behind the sticker price.
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Has the owner aid GST and Import duty ? this is how we got fanworm.
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8 minutes ago, Psyche said:
Highly unlikely to go into a cylinder, Id keep trying with a magnet or just take the manifold of- its not that hard.
Thanks, that's what I wanted to hear, I think the wing nut is SS so not magnetic.
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Replacing perkins 4108 Air Filter, dropped the capping wing nut down the intake, accident waiting to happen and it did.
I tried magnets on wires etc to no avail I guess the next stage is to take the manifold off but what are the chances it has gone further and the head has to come off ? I suppose its about he dia of a 20 cent piece maybe bigger.
Any engine gurus out there I would appreciate your help , even if it is not want I want to hear, bloody Murphy has been a constant companion lately F**k it.
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Spider Man's yacht sank ?
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9 hours ago, Black Panther said:
That's a sweet design with great bones on the flip side while its hard to tell from a picture the sails look tired, and the age of the rigging is indeterminable. The auxiliary is a Bukh diesel which will be the original engine most likely, so its near 50 ys old and sea water cooled. Hard to say if it is the 10 hp single cyl or the 20 hp twin, but probably the former and underpowered by today's standard, I suspect they have been out of production for a few years. ( Yes I know I'm a glass half full guy, mea culpa ! but I cant help being a realist, I would have brought her in a flash when I was 25 LOL.) To the earlier comment about $100 bills, that's only 1/10th of a Boat Unit.
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"Hiscock. Bloody autocorrect."
LOL,I was trying to figure that one out
Oh and for a certain Yoda- like obsessive traditionalist , 0 hp per ton but don't mention the "Tows" 10 points to the first person who can guess the identity.
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Those microbursts are crazy seen some wacky ones in the med too
A GREAT STRATEGY for buying a boat or a WASTE of EFFORT?
in MarineTalk
Posted
You will be denied entry into the marina without insurance which will in turn require a recent survey which will at least document the faults but possibly mean it cant be insured, rinse- wash- repeat.