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Vorpal Blade

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Everything posted by Vorpal Blade

  1. Service Engineers Porana Rd. Really helpful, Ive had them do multiple stainless bits for VB
  2. We are heading out tomorrow for a sail to watch the start and have a few spare seats if anyone is keen to come along. You would need to be at Sulphur Pt dinghy lockers for 12:30 departure. Space for first 4 to respond. Message ASAP if you would like to book your space .
  3. I was going to add important documents/personal wallets with cards etc but you beat me to it.
  4. well at least one of them is wearing ugg boots! I'd challenge you to kick them out of your cockpit evening drinkies.
  5. What's wrong with ugg boots in a boat / beach setting anyway KM?
  6. Use a huge carrot, with pressure they form themselves around the ribbed bits and seal very well. All Cat 1 boats should carry a variety of carrot sizes for this very purpose.
  7. We make a single 150mm deep ice berg in the bottom of the large iceytek chilly bin by putting the whole thing in the freezer. A mini glacier like that usually lasts us 4 days solid form in the bottom of the drinks bin. Drinks and loose ice go on top and drain the slouch off daily,
  8. You could use white UV sticky back, the stuff used for UV strips on sails. Lasts about 5 years.
  9. It is possible to do it without the prefeeder, and not difficult. What you need to do is have the sail flaked so the luff tape is all at the bow. Lead the halyard forward via whatever blocks you may have and stand on the bow pulling the halyard while feeding the sail up the spout. If you stand or kneel on the bulk of the sail on the deck this will stop it from inflating and blowing out of control. Remember to put the sheets on first but don't thread them up. Don't worry about getting luff tension on it to start with, just get it up and rolled away and do the final luff tensioning when you go
  10. When we first bought VB it had tillers and a single wheel and before we had even started the delivery trip I was convinced the wheel should go. It took the first line of rain coming through to convince me that the wheel should stay - all while I steered from the protection of the cabintop. Since then the tillers have been removed and a second wheel added. Its it a dyneeme cable setup and provides as much feel and feedback as tiller steering. If the balance is wrong you definitely get the message straight away. Note: This isn't VB.
  11. I found a standard 4" nail cut to the appropriate length works great as temporary sheer pins.
  12. Complete this sentence - Ok, we've had all winter preparing and have now had our first excellent night cruising and discovered we have forgotten..... In our case it is the plug for the sink! Tried using a tapered skinfittting bung but keeps getting knocked out. And tea towels.
  13. to get a decent appreciation of it we really need to know what sized boat etc. Loads on a 8m boat are well different from 12m boat.
  14. By all means have a go yourself, the Sailrite kits and their vids etc can make it look easy. Their "instructional" videos are done with guys that have been doing it for years and tend to make quite difficult/fiddly things look heaps easier than they actually are, particularly if you want it to look good at the end of the job. Machinery is important, it's not a job for mums home sewing machine, you need a walking foot machine that can deal with large thread sizes. And eyelets etc etc If you have not done it before I reckon the hours in a hard top option are similar to what you would put
  15. Twin wheels are definitely the way to go as evidenced below, (any reason at all to share this again) but having steered an E1050 with single wheel I think they are small enough to be more suited to tiller steering.
  16. It would be interesting to see if a regular 18v cordless drill has both the torque and endurance under load to deal with say hoisting a mainsail with a luff length of 15m and a 2:1 halyard. We've just changed VB to electric heavy lifting - I just bought one of these from Chains Rope and Anchors... Mrs VB can now pull the anchor and the main up with the remote. As it happens our anchor locker is right under the mast and the main halyard passes conveniently close to the anchor winch to make having the drum capacity worthwhile.
  17. I tried the M 66 which didn't fare well in our mooring area, then the following year tried M 77 which I can confirm is definitely not 11 better than the 66. Basically the same result. We use the boat a lot and wipe it regularly but both had an effectiveness of 3-4 months then it got harder and harder to keep it clean. This year Im giving Ultra a try, results soon.
  18. Bit of a difference here though (aside from the story of how the trophies were appropriated) the Lipton Cup has always been a Mullet boat gig, the Javs "inherited" their trophy from the X class.
  19. I had an unfortunate accident which gave unexpected results the other day.... I was spraying exit mould on some mouldy stuff and unbeknownst to me the overspray permeated a teak door surround in the background, I came back to the boat next morning and found parts of the teak were looking a bit cleaner in patches but still the weathered silver look, (not the freshly sanded colour), but well gone of any black spots and discolouration. I then sprayed the sh!t out of the rest of the door and walked away, or forgot as per the label. The following day the teak work looked excellent, natural look
  20. Funny you should mention that BP. Ive got our rig down right now for servicing - new halyards, nav lights, wind gear and replacement VHF aerial. The last item I was 50/50 on and was seeking opinion. Should it be replaced with same or do I go for a deck mounted model that is folded up when required. A well know YNZ safety inspector we have rafted up to on occasions has this setup. This makes sense given we general dont actually use the VHF that frequently. Whats the downside?
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