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raz88

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Everything posted by raz88

  1. It's not just the quote. Dude didn't seem to have a handheld vhf. Randomly jumped into the water in huge seas and 60+ knots with no instruction to do so. Plus from the article and the info here it seems the boat was secured and he decided to shift it which is how it ended up out there. Imo he should be up for some sort of fine/sanction based on the fact his idiocy put the lives of his rescuers at risk.
  2. Just off the start line of the coastal 2022. Clipper and I will be setting off on it next week in the rni.
  3. Yep it's got a self adhesive backing. I also went around the edges with this stuff. https://www.marine-deals.co.nz/vetus-self-adhesive-tape-roll-aluminium-30m?q=Vetus+tape&h=14
  4. I found the same, however it turned out not too hard to make a decision in the end. Vybar sounded good, but found sopac so hard to deal with that I gave up. Foreman insulation have been bought by flectures and seem geared up to sell house lots of batts but couldn't figure out how to sell me 1 sheet of marine insulation. Had poor feedback/reviews on the burnsco product. Had a quick look into the dynamat suggested above. it seemed that for marine engine bay installations you should use two of their products laid over each other, which seemed more complex to install and more
  5. As said by a couple of people above, I've recently bought a stainless one for my yanmar from hdi marine. Haven't fitted yet, but looks better and much cheaper including shipping than oem from the local agent and was here in a week.
  6. Thanks T. Will give them a ring tomorrow. Although if there's a lightweight version which does close to the same job it would be preferable.
  7. Needing to replace a sheet of insulation under my engine box lid which is crumbly and horrible. Is there a go-to product people would recommend for this? I see burnsco have this - don't know if anyone has tried it out? https://www.burnsco.co.nz/softsound-engine-insulation?gclid=Cj0KCQiAzeSdBhC4ARIsACj36uFE2MErP1wzrrM1b-MuRwm4UQzXOR6tCN-rkXHjKNhTTnsbK5rnMdsaAtLsEALw_wcB
  8. One thing I've found with rope work is a cheap ceramic knife from aliexpress does a better job and doesn't seem to blunt as quickly as a metal one, particularly on dyneema. Plus they don't rust.
  9. Probably the best thing to do is to go on Facebook and join the crew finder pages for rnzys and Richmond yacht club. Or the "nz sailing" or "women who sail nz" groups.
  10. The article says steering damage and taking on water, presumably if taking on water it'll sink rather than drift.
  11. My read of the article is that they're saying there may be circumstances where you'd favor a regular pfd over/instead of an inflatable. Not to literally wear an additional lifejacket over the top of an inflatable one...
  12. Or when we imported one from aus a few years back, on an aus built one. The closer economic relations au/nz treaty means aus built boats also exempt from duty here (gst still applies).
  13. I agree with psyche, but am concerned about category inspection or pre race safety inspections by clubs if the manufacturer specifies your lifejacket needs pro servicing and you've self serviced it. The baltic material is still ambiguous. Refers to the ability to self service but that they 'recommend' professional servicing.
  14. Interested in where this info comes from? Particularly re Baltic, which I have, as the information on the Baltic website says that you should have it serviced each year by an authorized agent OR you can do it yourself. Is the above from ynz? Or just something collated from what you could find?
  15. Need it for coastal too. Not all the boats do both SSANZ and coastal but plenty do. Not sure about gold cup, maybe need it for that too?
  16. To be fair, they also don't consider their own races - the last date they tried was during their own 3 kings race.
  17. Not sure that anyone has directly answered the questions so here goes. 1. Between $200 for an hour on the floating dock and $700 for an out, in and clean somewhere like pier 21. 2. $20 - $30ish a day depending where. 3. $1000-2000 depending who, where, what covering etc. 4. Been discussed above, around 3k. Depends if just replacing wire or whether the rigging screws need replacing as well. 5. Ballpark $1000/year but varies depending on risk so where you keep it etc 6. Couple of grand if you can find a friendly delivery crew. Generally done by the day so depends
  18. Also consider having the old coating media(soda?) blasted rather than sanding? Might leave you with a better job.
  19. As per marinhero there were a bunch sold as hull and deck packages and then 'built' by randoms... not sure on the provenance of the one mentioned in the OP though.
  20. I was on WS for that. Did brilliant later become simply brilliant, or are they two different boats?
  21. Yeah I remember nevenka going over to do the s2h, mid 2000s as mentioned above would be about right. They were racing a lot with ryc and Vera mummery was club president iirc, but they also did a lot with Victoria. We raced our t32 there as well, and there was also sometimes a t34 town fox. Other regulars included the Tercels on their d35 Reotahi and an older lidgard called something like taitua. In addition to those mentioned above Wandering star (starlight based t32) has done a lot of miles including to Darwin and back. Tony Kendal (sunlight) is the one to talk to. Ran the owners
  22. raz88

    Soft shackles

    I've had a soft shackle shake off. Now use insulating tape or velcro as mentioned earlier in the thread and haven't had it happen again.
  23. raz88

    Young 88

    There was discussion here and other places maybe a couple of years back. Seems to have blown over now. Some of the quickest boats had too long a j measurement. I don't know what the outcome was but nationals and class events have been going ahead so assume it was sorted and people moved on.
  24. raz88

    Young 88

    Class still going strong and plenty of them racing with the various clubs etc. Not sure why there's a number for sale at the moment other than that it seems to go in cycles. Price difference seems to be along the lines of <35k Non class/poor condition 35-50k In class, reasonable condition, but not the latest gear, not known for being super quick, maybe an original motor etc 50k+ in class and known to be a quick/class winning capable boat. Good sails/engine/electrics. Of course there are some dreamers who are trying it on that haven't spent the money on their boat
  25. Insurance is like a big risk club/cooperative. Say all the keeler owners in westhaven get together and put $1500 a year into a shared bank account. If one of them sinks, the money from the account is used to replace it. If 20 of them sink, there's probably not enough money in the account and the owners have to either put in more money next time or call the whole thing a failure and give up. Now say a group of trimaran owners get together and do the same thing. Because there's relatively few of them, you don't end up with as much money in your account. You also have less chance of a boat s
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