Jon
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Posts posted by Jon
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Good advice above
I ran a weather model on PredictWind and west and south of Australia seems the best option at this time of year. Most of the motoring is down to Jakarta, don’t know but if you can re provision there ? the next leg would be a month, with the options of clearing in any of the clearance ports in NZ
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Yes
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12 hours ago, DrWatson said:
I'll do it!
But on another note regarding clearing out. I communicated with French customs about procedure to leave the EU and re-enter. Response was, there is no procedure. So how the hell does that work if I want to sail to Panama instead of just over to Jersey? Both are outside the EU...
Just load up and sail off??? No Zarpe?We sailed from Spain to Gibraltar (outside EU) had to clear in but never cleared out of Spain so no Zarpe. Then sailed to Lanzarote, didn’t need to clear out of Gibraltar as we had cleared in and out at same time. Arrived Lanzarote and just cleared into marina with passports and boat registration done. Stayed a week then cleared out of marina for Caribbean, marina wanted to know if we had changed any of the crew that had sailed in, yes added two more, passports recorded. Ok now where do we go to clear out of EU, no we do that for you, just tell us your intended next port, I said not sure as we will decide once we get close, they said no we need a country name for this form, so I said Antigua, they said fine we send these forms off once a month to Spain. So I asked for a Zarpe, they said that’s it that receipt in your hand. Job done, only really started getting serious once we got close to the pacific, probably Panama, but then casual compared to NZ, that’s the only time we needed to send advanced notice and estimate arrival plus updates underway.
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Not saying you’ve missed anything but I’ve noticed on May race boats that a series of holes are often drilled on an angle sloping downwards to the outside, to allow ventilation but stop rain
Also see on cruising boats solar powered hatch vents
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23 minutes ago, Psyche said:
I get that, colregs etc but as for specifically required safety gear or rules as per YNZ and especially in regard to the windows getting driven out of their frames, there appears to be no vessel structural or safety requirements for pleasure craft that are not heading to a foreign port.
Correct
You can now head off and circumnavigate via the 5 great capes and arrive back in NZ having not cleared into any foreign territory in a Pied Piper
But if you wish to sail your New Zealand owned European Category A sailing vessel and clear into the nearest foreign territory then you will need a Zarpe and to get one you will need a YNZ Cat 1 which is issued by them on behalf of Maritime NZ.
Im not sure but believe we are the only nation that requires this of it citizens to get a Zarpe
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Just about is the worrying part 😜
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35 minutes ago, CarpeDiem said:
The (M) rule applies to exposed windows only, while the (K) rule applies to all windows.
Guessing that those back windows probably are not considered 'exposed'.
Except to following seas 😳
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2 hours ago, Adrianp said:
The issue is that the inspectors will now have to grant an exemption that is directly contrary to the rules. These new rules have left the inspectors between a rock and a hard place. They were able to ignore the issue this year as the rules only came about a month before the start of the cruising season.
I've had some discussions with my inspector about this and his initial thoughts were that he may be able to still sign us off but would have to get a second inspector to check my windows with him, just to cover his ass if something goes wrong in the future. That will only be a short term arrangement and eventually we'll need to meet the rule, making the boat weaker and unsafer in the process.
I know a lot of current Cruising Multis and only one has shutters, and they had them made prior to this as their windows have a significant curve to them and they knew it would be an issue if they broke one.
I don't know where I'm going to store my 9 shutters in between passages. Our current emergency ply window is as big as a single bunktop. 9 of them is going to make that bunk unusable.
What’s the deal with the French doors on most cruising multi’s, surely they would also need shutters?
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17 minutes ago, CarpeDiem said:
It's the opening area's within, not the size of the glass.
Some boats have a single piece of glass covering multiple internal openings.
Yes my largest is like this with a large mullion in the middle ( behind the fender on the side deck in above photo )
I think I’ll be ok then or very close
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I’ll be measuring my windows next time I’m on board
Do I measure the total glass area from outside or the opening area from within ? There’s about an inch all around that’s the fixing
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All of this talk to avoid a rule change. ??
does this make everyone safer ??
Or is this the law of unintended consequences
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Try Steve Ashley, he’s always happy for you to drop off your stays to be remade. He often works up your way so will probably pickup and drop off
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I read this report 3 days ago and haven’t read any of the comments above as I like to digest this type of thing in relation to what I’d have done in my boat or any other yacht I was sailing.
Firstly these are people that have owned and sailed this yacht many miles plus they were well crewed so my interpretation is they had no major concerns about the ability of this yacht in theses conditions
My first question is how long had this front hatch been open ? Is it possible that it’s been left not dogged down for some time by mistake (easy to do if you need ventilation in forward cabin in the tropics) then as they sailed into this system the forward cabin became uncomfortable to sleep in so the door was closed ? I usually move to the saloon sole to sleep bashing up wind as I can’t sleep on the island berth in these conditions
Secondly was there a bilge alarm ? A yacht of this size can easily hold a ton or two of water in its bilges before it’s noticeable above the floor boards and this is fluid ballast so always were you need it most.
Ive done hundreds of miles in these conditions, yes mostly deep water but still 50+ kts and 5+m waves, my boat is flatter in the hull slightly longer and wider aft. But with a deep reefed main well eased and a pocket of genoa out over sheeted my autopilot can easily steer, we usually hand steer however as it’s more comfortable both mentally and physically
To me as purely a fly on the wall I believe this boat has tripped over three times this fluid ballast it’s ending up carrying, this has stressed the hull in a way that it’s never been designed to carry and popped out the window which has then let in a whole lot more weight.
This talk of hull flex is not the concern that people think, wooded boats are designed to be ridged and if they flex they rake and loose all strength / integrity. GRP boats are designed to flex to dissipate the loads ( think a wooded box verse a tiptop ice cream container, the box is stiff and strong until it flexes then it’s not, the ice cream container needs to be jumped on then it will still probably pop out and be in one piece. We have been building GRP boats for close on 50 years now and off the top of my head I can’t think of one that’s broken up and sunk, but I can think of numerous wooded boats that have (race boats excluded as they are built to minimise weight) Yes some have lost keels, rudders and rigs but this is usually a mechanical fixing issue. The vast majority of cruising boats out there are production boats by a huge margin and ocean sailing has never been safer for nm sailed.
However I did by a GRP production boat with small windows, however I personally think this was a chain of events that lead to an unfortunate accident, yes if I’m departing I’m looking at arriving in NZ under a high pressure system, but this system degraded on route and it’s always a balancing act between getting the perfect weather window or have the perfect extra crew.
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Only advice I can think of quickly is stay above the tropic line to keep in the trades until Tonga or Fiji, the more westing you make the better your approach to NZ will be. North Minerva is often a good jumping off point, but you will want comms that allow weather updates as timing the last 3 days is everything
Im picking your not keen to stop anywhere due to Covid ? Fiji is a backup plan but not sure about the details, they seem to be constantly changing.
Good luck, over 3000nm to Minerva if your straight lining it, then under 700 to Opua.
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Looks like the harbour master has a different idea of the Waitamata Harbour than some on here.
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Triangle is Cat 3+ but best to be working on being Cat 2 by then and also easiest to go straight to cat 2 then only one inspection
best advice is start talking to your inspector (ph or email) and get their advice as they are the ones that will sign you off.
most if not all underestimate the prep time, talk to your sailmaker, rigger, boatbuilder etc now, then sail as many long distance races / passages as you can two up, It’s a single handed race in relays. Crew selection is probably more important than yacht selection. Really important that you sail with someone you can trust implicitly (best crews are people who own their own boat) and also someone with the same goals. ie if you what to get the boat around safely and be friends at the end, don’t sail with someone who what’s to win at any cost or vice versa.
it’s a marathon not a sprint
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Prawn Broker sailed with a drogue through Cook Straight and tacked up the harbour into the finish line at Wellington in a RNI
It can be done , but not sure I’d like to do it in the 50kt zephyr they had last time
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To get Cat 2 or above all you need is to show you have an alternative steering plan, this can include warps, drouge etc.
Many of the yachts that do the likes of RNI etc want an easy replacement that the can keep racing with, even if it’s at reduced speeds, as a lot of effort goes into these events and being stuck halfway around isn’t a great option
Some like Changed above bolt a cassette to gudgeons on the stern and have a simple foil stored under the quarter berth that drops in and the likes of the whisper pole is used as the tiller. So have the gudgeons bolted on then the foil has the other half ready to attach, this second option could be very tricky in a small boat in big seas. But this all comes down to what you believe is acceptable risk.
As for storm coverings we split the window size on a yacht we took to Fiji a while ago by just bolting an aluminium strap with rubber backing vertically to halve the window area
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The wind at the finish line was all over the place, from 6 to 16kts and from Devonport to the Museum in direction.
Most of the early boats were tacking straight into the finish, were as some would lay in from north head, boats that went over to Orakei really seemed to struggle.
Plus the in coming tide helped the boats that went north head and in a lot, however some also over layed the finish due to the tide, it was a great afternoon to watch the different tactics, plus we were back in Westhaven with all boats finished by 2020hrs
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Bursting is definitely what DP was all about, hit warp speed before anyone else even got rolling
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I did see a boat hoist without the tack attached, someone that posts here from time to time, a boat that’s fairly new to NZ, orange, Asian name. But I’d never tell tails out of school
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26 minutes ago, 2flit said:
So Far,, the 3 leads in Fiji have had only one response (good responsive communication with this one) but they are unable to give us a referral on even a single New Zealand Flagged boat that they have done. I'm not necessarily impressed.
Reminds me of a yacht I saw that was painted in the yard at Vuda
it had a really good non skid finish to the topsides wth a sprinkling of coral sand through it
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Quick google came up with this
https://nicma.co.nz/product/18mm-oversized-mixed-hardwood-plywood/
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Dinghy types - Pros & Cons
in MarineTalk
Posted
I agree you can have only two of the three
10kgs lighter than the Ali rib, rows just as well as the Ali rib, same length more room. And dry storage within