erice

thanks for pm Dambo, and the link above i hadn't fully looked through that page on the 60's havsfidra 20' the 70's storfidra 25' was originally called the havsfidra II + is basically a stretched version there's a cutaway drawing at the bottom of that page

the seller did hint i should consider and outboard... but the stern is so high got the wife to call japan, but they are on their religious obon holiday at the moment, so will have to wait a few days before i can price engines and parts from there

thanks all ideas welcome have been building wooden skids, removed dodger etc for winching up under the boom and then swinging over to the floating pontoon

if the crank is beyond repair i guess the engine would be better broken down to parts and sold this ex-saildrive 3cyl yanmar is cheap, how hard would it be to mate to the existing transmission? or would it need a bigger transmission anyway? http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/boats-m ... 627493.htm then there's this air cooled 20hp http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/boats-m ... 657045.htm right up to a new beta http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/boats-m ... 431967.htm might see what the industrial mitsubishi L2E base engine would cost in japan

last week when the head came off took this phone video was puzzled by the 'clunk' at 6sec

the good rear cylinder i haven't touched, don't want to a few days ago when the head came off i did notice some slop in the movement of the fwd piston + a little clank when turning the engine over by hand. that would have been due to the lack of the crank shell bearings the firing, working rear cyl. bottom end looks and feels tight. so i'm not touching it how did the shell bearings leave the conrod? taking the sump off took some time, the sealant and paint looked to have been factory... had a friend who lived in the mountains and brought his auto terrano to me complained

big surprise! blocked up the engine, drained the newish looking oil + filter, dropped the sump, removed the big-end bearing cap nuts + cap NO BEARING SHELLS............ nothing, nada, zip....the conrod was running directly on the crank....... pushed the piston up through the bore + and the rings aren't broken, look fine presumably the lack of fwd piston, conrod crank bearings screwed up the timing + compression enough that the fwd cyl couldn't ignite the fuel?

only a 2cyl so even less engine fitted 2006 in northern hemisphere boat only has a 40ltr built-in tank + a 20ltr plastic one so it's unlikely that it motored across the atlantic + pacific and boat basically been on sitting mooring for last 4 years

today's guess as to why the rings broke is a soft? seize - due to overheat - maybe the 50% blocked - never cleaned heat exchanger - or due to lack of coolant - due to alloy corrosion at the back of the heat exchanger - due to insufficient coolant changes when drained the 'coolant' was like rusty water with no green or red coloration left, did feel a little 'soapy' so am guessing it was either very, very old, (2006? when the engine was put in?) or the leak was simply continually topped up, (diluting the glycol) by the previous nz owners instead of fixing the leak until they forgot to

damn! seem to have found why the front cyl wasn't firing head off shows scored cyl wall, so probably broken ring(s) hoping to lift engine on blocks, remove sump + bearing cap, push piston out top to change rings can the bore be honed smooth in the boat?

got the 2 anchors and chains around to east tamaki galvanisers price to hot-dip is $3.20+ gst/kg at $3.68/kg it would cost $18.40 for the 5kg anchor $55.20 for the 15kg $60? for the 11m chain $120? for the 20m chain about $250 all up as the galv. guy said, under half the cost of replacing with new but for now the engine needs that cash, so anchors and chain just got a quick zinc-it spray engine now mostly disconnected ready to be slid out of the bay

took the vetus - mitsubishi - denso injectors and pump into "diesel services" penrose grahme there took everything apart, fitted about $150 of parts, charged about $150 in labour and gave them back he pointed out that injector shims i thought were missing were actually stuck up in the injector bodies, where they often hide to make up for the missing injector pump base shim i cut couple from the side an alloy drink can can wall was only about 0.2mm so needed 2 to lift the pump to basic start setting back on the boat everything bolted + torqued back up the engine fired u

^ good one "D-day to today"

seagull livingstone jonathan

uncle google says try this page http://www.westhaven.co.nz/westhaven/us ... nnections/

now have the injector pump + injectors out and in the hands of a denso agent cranking with my fat thumb stuffed in the empty injector hole seems to show compression, but my thumb hasn't been calibrated by years of experience so what do i know... having no engine seemed like a good time to deal with the rusted links in the 9mm anchor chain even rusted they laughed at my hacksaw so dropped the whole lot into the dinghy and brought it home along with the main 15kg bruce anchor and the 5kg spare, both also showing a little rust where the years have ripped of the galv at the carport

hmmm................ these sage words from the mitsi/vetus service manual, plus a few knowledgeable opinions suggest i should be checking engine compression before going much further down the injection rabbit hole ($3000 for vetus injector pump) Problems caused by the faulty injection pump, faulty injection nozzles and improper cylinder compression, give similar symptoms When judging the cause of trouble from examination, be careful to make conclusion because it can be very complicated. so before i head off to repco and put down $290 for a diesel compression tester

the bigger question is why you'd ever invite media into your life at all! after they lose stern liferaft they show what looks like a deck liferaft at 5.40

my biggest hurdle in getting vindil off the mooring and sailing is the non-running engine a vetus M2.06, (2 cyl 16hp, current production) http://www.vetus.com/engines-and-around ... m2-06.html last week google seemed to suggest a bad fuel shut-off solenoid but it seems to check out fine - you can hear it click when key is turned to 'off' - you can push the manual shut-down plunger and feel it work - you can even push the plunger while cycling the key and feel the solenoid push your finger back so it seems it's not responsible for the fuel problems:o( the low pressure

progress on getting vindil, my okahu bay storfidra 25, back into shape continues it'll stay on the mooring until i can get the vetus m2.06 running as it fires but dies, it's looking like lack of fuel and suspicion is currently focused on the fuel shutoff solenoid on shore task has been cleaning headsails, unfortunately they were stored under a leaking fuel tap 2 storm sails and 2 jibs have so far been given an initial clean by laying them out on the lawn and gently brushing over with hot soapy water and then rinsing the oil-slick off the spin got gentler treatment in the

hi all, like most 2nd hand yachts, Vidil came with an installed vhf lucky for me, as a recent world cruiser it has a reasonable new + high spec JMC RT-2500 with full DSC-MMSI a DSC signal uses a stable signal with a narrow bandwidth and the receiver has no squelch, it has a slightly longer range than analog signals,[1] with up 25 percent longer range and significantly faster.[2] DSC senders are programmed with the ship's Maritime Mobile Service Identity (MMSI) and may be connected to the ship's Global Positioning System (GPS), which allows the apparatus to know who it is, w

if you see me tied up and pottering inside stop by to say hi i have the use of the mooring until the end of the year yesterday was flying the foresails to dry them out but there must be a better way to get leaked diesel off them next up will be to replace the 7? year old batteries that will not longer hold a charge or crank the engine

excellent thank you was going to try opening a good link + welding it closed but am never sure how good my welds are

am the new owner of vindil probably nz's only storfidra 26, sailed here from sweden a small, solid, slow, 1970 swedish double-ended, similar to mini-westerly 32 https://www.google.com/search?q=storfid ... 66&bih=653 was on trademe recently my first boat with an engine going to be a lot of work to get it back to where it should be after 3 years stuck on its okahu bay mooring was wondering what my options are with this otherwise good looking anchor chain

yes, monel rivets i've drilled out of alloy masts have always looked weathered silver with a tiny hint of greenish brown 5 years crevice corrosion on a below water rudder bolt http://www.alberg30.org/maintenance/Ste ... Corrosion/