kaki anau
-
Content Count
10 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
Media Demo
Forums
Gallery
Calendar
Store
Posts posted by kaki anau
-
-
34 minutes ago, Psyche said:
At that price, I would definitely be trying a repair! What kind of boat are they from, they must be pretty big.
The winch is a Harken 980.3 st. The boat is an old 1981 Swan, 51.
-
8 hours ago, Frank said:
After 30 years in contact with Aluminium I suspect additional shop time might be needed drill out some of the locking grub screws and careful use of heat to extract the bronze ring .
They will need to clean the crack surface to thoroughly remove any oxidised material, it can be a surprising amount, they will also remove the anodising around the weld margin. Post repair you will need to get the drum stripped and re-anodised. It looks to be a relatively thin wall casting so distortion might be a risk and as already mentioned the welded area will be weaker than the parent material. It might be worth asking lewmar for the heat treatment spec as the repair shop might need that info.
I would see if there are any engine build shops that do weld repairs on Aluminium cylinder heads.
Thank you Frank. I took the drum into 'Machine Part Welding' in Penrose today (they do repairs on aluminum cylinder heads, amongst other engineering). The engineer described a process almost word for word as you explain above, which gave me confidence they could do the job.
Thank you Psyche and aardvarkash10 for helping work through the options. I am not sure yet whether Harken still supply these drums (waiting to hear back). I have found online 2 retailers in the US that have the drum; they are both seeking about $US3.6k (about NZ$5.9k) for the drum plus shipping. There is a 2nd hand winch for sale on ebay 'for parts', but the seller wants about NZ$5k including shipping from the US.
I will try repair (by the engineer), and keep a look out for a 2nd hand unit at a more digestible price. I will report back on how the repair turns out.
Kind regards
Kieran
-
1
-
1
-
-
Thanks Psyche. The teeth on this model are a bronze gear that I will remove before welding. It's the fixing for this gear that I think corroded and created pressure that lead to the, as you note, quite a crack. I have loosen that fitting (bottom left hand in the photo below). I was going to ask the engineer to drill the hole rather than attempt it myself, but is time of essence and I should do that today?
Thanks for responding
Kieran
-
-
Thanks motorb, aardvarkash10. I will check out the options during this week. I have identified the cause. There is a bronze gear fixed to the bottom of the drum with stainless fixings. Galvanic corrosion around the stainless fixing has put pressure on the drum. Kicking myself for not spotting it and attending to it. Today's job is to strip the gear from the partner winch, clean and duralac etc. Learnt something new about my boat, the hard way again...
kind regards
Kieran
-
1
-
-
A crack has appeared in my Harken winch drum. The winch otherwise works very well and is regularly cleaned and re-greased, though the winch would be pushing 30 years old or so. I am thinking of taking it to an aluminum wheel repairer to see if they can weld the drum. I am wondering if anyone has tried this option and how it worked out for them.
Kind regards
Kieran
-
Purchased. Thank you LBD.
-
Anybody intending to sail closer to home and willing to sell (or rent) their Jordon series drogue? My yacht displaces 40,000 lb (about 18,000kg) which I understand would require 147 cones. Regards, Kieran
-
Great effort by Rob and the Mana Club members; we all benefit from this work.
-
2
-
Fridge rebuild
in TechTalk
Posted
Hi Matt,
The solution I came up with when I rebuilt my fridge is I cut a square flange from 1.2mm 430 stainless steel and embedded that in the top of the fridge that receives the lid. I then cut a similar square flange for the lid. I fitted a standard magnetic fridge seal to the flange on the lid. The lid is hinged and seals on all four sides with the magnetic seal. I had the magnetic seal made to fit so there are no joins in the seal: Seal-A-Fridge: 0800 36 77 99 www.sealafridge.co.nz
Although the seal holds the lid closed, I retained the original latch so the lid is latched closed (in case of roll-over).
Note, the stainless needs to be 430, not 316 as 316 is not magnetic. I learnt this the stupid way
Regards
Kieran