Jasetheace02
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Posts posted by Jasetheace02
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1 hour ago, Black Panther said:
Go ballistic and fly to La Paz in Baja California. Fantastic diving , good charter fleet, great food, great music and cheap beer.
I like your enthusiasm BK but long haul not an option, islands or East Coast of Oz.
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2 minutes ago, Bad Kitty said:
Tonga boats are tired & not really well maintained.
Whitsunday boats were much better, and it's really nice cruising there.
No bare boat charters in Fiji, has to have a Fiji skipper.
I think there's bare boat in New Cal, but the waters a fair bit cooler than Fiji or Tonga!
Thanks BK. Yes I have heard and read that a lot of the boats in Tonga are pretty average.
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1 hour ago, chariot said:
Why not the Whitsundays. Boats probably beeter maintained and Aussie bubble could be happening before the end of winter.
Yeah happy to consider all options. The reason I was looking Fiji/Tonga is because we are very keen on diving/snorkelling and I know the diving in the islands is very good as I have dived there. My understanding is that the Whitsundays is very nice to sail etc but does not offer the same qualities beneath the surface?
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Does anyone have any experience with bareboat yacht charters in the Islands, Fiji, Tonga etc? I have researched a few and it seems there are certainly some that you need two be a bit wary of but would be good to know if anyone has had some really good experiences and would recommend a particular company?
Got my 50th in 2022 and if the islands are open would love to do a trip with the family.
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1 hour ago, Sail Rock said:
Same here. Get someone to hold the screw in place with a screwdriver to prevent it turning and breaking its bond with the sealant, while you tighten the nut from below.
You have had success with this method Sail Rock? Currently in the process of doing the first track at the moment using Sika 291. Cheers.
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10 hours ago, mcp said:
No question, use Butyl tape and counter sink the holes a little and wrap a small amount around the top end of the threads before insertion. Tighten 90% and re-tighten/torque a week later. I have never had a leak with butyl tape.
Thanks MCP. Is someone able to briefly explain how I would go about using Butyl tape on an application such as the sheet track pictured above?
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14 minutes ago, Dtwo said:
Plus 1 for countersinking the holes. It provides a lot more sealing surface area. With that track profile I would also be tempted to put the track down on top of a 3/4mm plastic strip, just wider than the track. Push all the screws through track and plastic, put sealant between plastic and deck, tighten from below. It would be challenging to get a good sealing effect just putting the bolts straight through as there is nothing to "squeeze" the sealant, so it forms a good gasket.
Cheers. I understand the concept of counter sinking however in this case I am not sure as the current holes 'just' fit inside the two rails that sit on the deck. Any countersink would put the diameter outside the rails and into open deck, if that makes sense?
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2 minutes ago, Fish said:
No idea sorry. I know there is sika, and there is sika. Has a particular number (which I can find if you want). a lot of that sealant stuff looks the same, but performs completely differently. If you are going to go to the effort of doing the job again, I'd make sure you get the right stuff.
Thanks Fish, if you could get the Sika number that would be great, may as well give myself the best chance of success, don't want to be doing it a 3rd time!!!
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This is the shape of the track, not flat on the bottom so makes it a little difficult to seal.
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48 minutes ago, Fish said:
Yes, I've done it. Not sure if its the exact same track, but I've sealed track that takes genoa car on the side decks.
Take the whole thing off, seal underneath the track and around each bolt hole with sika sealant. Re-mount the track, and ONLY FINGER TIGHTEN the bolts. Let the sika set, one or two days, and then snug them down firm, but don't try cranking the f*ck out of them, just snug. Idea is to leave a bed of sika, and not squeeze it out. You've got to put light pressure on to get it to bed down, but wait for it to set before putting any tension on the bolts.
We also had little plastic inserts that go between the bolt head and the track. Shaped kind of like a funnel. I understand these also help seal and stop water ingress from around the top of the bolt. Fairly sure our track was harken, with harken plastic insert thingees. I remember getting snaffueed cause we extended the track and ended up with metric hole spacings and imperial track, got half way up the track and the existing bolt holes wouldn't line up....
Ok sounds good thanks Fish. I am using Mastersil SMP 50, should be ok?
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2 minutes ago, L00seM00se said:
Only thing I’ve ever been able to get working properly is Butyl Tape. I bought three rolls when I was in the states last as I couldn’t find it here.
Yes I get that answer a lot but I can't source the stuff here in NZ!
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Has anyone ever successfully sealed one of these tracks? Both of mine are leaking through into the cabin. Planning on first sail in a few weeks but I can't for the life of me stop water getting into this boat (rain that is)!!!
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Looking at using this product for teak toe rails. Was looking at the Cetol Filter 7 Plus but it states this should be used as a top coat over Cetol HLSe? Are both necessary or could I just do 3 coats of HLSe? Any advice appreciated.
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I have attached some before and after photos of my window replacement incase anyone is interested. Once again I appreciate all the great advice I got from this forum which was a big part of the job going well. Really pleased with the result, it was a very rewarding experience 👍
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Thanks for all the advice. Went for the Quilosa MS35 and have done away with the screws. Finished installing the first window today and looks good. Once everything has set and I have given it a tidy up I will post some photos.
Great to be well underway on the biggest job I have on my winter list.
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5 minutes ago, Island Time said:
Bed it tape for deck hardware. Works great, never sets, and is removable and waterproof.
Is there a specific tape you use? Can be sourced in NZ? I also have some deck hardware I want to re seal.
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11 hours ago, Swartch said:
If your going to tint the Acrylic just make sure the film is compatible otherwise your going to end up in a world of hurt!! Bubbling and pealing within a very short space of time.
My thought's is tinted window's are better due to the privacy and heat reduction benefits. (I'm a window tinter by trade) and would add a film on my own boat in the future. Glass is so so much easier though.
Ok. So is there a way to identify if the tint is comparable with the acrylic or not, it should say on the packaging? Put tint on after windows are fitted or prior to?
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Slightly off topic but still window related, peoples views on tint? Is it a must or just personal preference? My original windows were clear so I got clear acrylic but could get some stick on tint and apply before fitting the windows I guess?
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50 minutes ago, Tamure said:
Silicon is the best sealant, Dow Corning 795 is commonly used but modified silicones (MS) are produced by a number of companies, Quilosa MS 35 is quite cheap compared to the big names and seems pretty good.. The trick is in the prep and reading the tech sheets, in particular the minimum bead thickness and surface prep for your application.
Yes as I mentioned earlier I feel there are probably several very good products around nowadays, especially when compared to decades ago when a lot of our boats were built! Forums like this are great for me being a newbie to use the experience of others to help make good choices and reduce the risk of mistakes. All very helpful stuff. I am confident I will have a watertight boat soon!!!
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5 minutes ago, Island Time said:
Yep. The initial grab strength of the adhesive is pretty high, and the working time is pretty short, so it's much easier if there is two of you to position the windows. Ive done a few sets now with Quilosa MS35, and not a single leak. Its great stuff, and inexpensive. It sticks like the proverbial S.T.A.B , and don't use it in direct afternoon sun in summer, it goes off too fast!
A plank down the stanchions and a couple of timer braces will work fine for the required force to hold the window temporarily, it wont need much if any with the grab strength of the product. Take plenty of thinners and rags!
Great, thanks a lot.
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2 minutes ago, Island Time said:
The is no need for the bolts/Screws, they are what eventually leaks. You could fill the holes in the frame, stick the windows in, then the frames on top for purely cosmetic reasons if you want. Modern adhesives are stronger and more flexible than the initial fixing and sealing system. Most modern boats have windows fixed without mechanical fastenings now, and the joint is usually stronger than the acrylic or the GRP of the boat.
Nice, I like the idea. As you have mentioned, one of my biggest concerns is water getting in around the screws, not the window edges! So if I use a product like MS35 its just a matter of installing (appropriate prep work obviously) and holding in place until set, maybe sometime levered of the stanchion lines?
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58 minutes ago, Island Time said:
If you use a decent adhesive/sealant (like mentioned above, I use and recommend Quilosa MS35 from the glue guru), you can forget the frames and the screws. Fill the screw holes and paint. Stick the windows in with the adhesive, good to go.
Yeah I have read about this option. It makes me a bit nervous to be honest the I like the idea. Some of the moulding screws have stripped also which means I would have to fit through bolts so the adhesive only option would solve that.
I feel I would still need to fit the moulding though to cover a gap between the outside edge of the window and the edge of the recess? Maybe just fill in and paint the countersunk holes in the moulding?
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Thanks for all the suggestions, I feel there are probably several good products that will do the job. I am sure whatever I use will be 100 times better than what was there, looked very old with several different products used for repairs over the years? I will try and attach a photo.
Basically a recess that the window sits in and then the moulding with screw holes goes over top.
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I am fitting new acrylic windows and have some sealant which is Prosil 10 from Burnsco. Would this be suitable or would something like Dowsil 795 be better?
I only want to do this job once!!!
Cheers.
Rudder Repair
in TechTalk
Posted
Would anyone have some advice on a repair for my rudder blade? Would prefer to just repair the few areas of damage and not have to do the whole blade? Cheers.