2flit

Used this starting about ?? fifteen or more years ago. I would say that it performs similarly to other products on the market, which is to say that it is not a wonder cure-all but does work. If you want to try a squirt of it on something,... I have a bit of this and we are hauled in Whangarei. PM me if you are near by and want to try it. LPS-3 seems to serve a different purpose with it's thick tacky film. This product has been around for so long that if it was as amazing as the marketing implies.... all North Americans would be using it.... they certainly are not.

I believe that there is no clear resolution to this mater. How or why these cracks appeared remains highly uncertain in my mind. In a situation like this there is not a clear answer. I am satisfied with the understanding that there could have been many contributing factors. Thank-you for the advise, time and knowledge this forum provides.

The entire starboard side was badly affected (equally front and rear). The port side hardly at all. I remind you that the yard worker was notified of the crack just a short time after he started in on the port side. Then Later after putting the wrong sealant (Tube says "Must not be used on Polycarbonate" , and then removing it all a second time there was absolutely no change in the cracking what-so-ever. It's just plain weird - because if there was some inherent weakness in the hull structure- then this should have shown up by a worsening of the situation. We have been living in that sp

Yes, At the very beginning the sealant was removed with a Fein tool, the blade used was for removing deck caulk a(this has a small razor sharpened hook at its end).... but everyone says the cracks did not show up until four months later - after the grooved out area was being prepped for the new sealant.

Hi Wheels, The crack does not go thru the inner skin. The lead yard guy insists that he would have seen these cracks just several days beforehand because they were closely inspecting the area about 5 cm away because there worker had located the heater vent fairing in the wrong location and were attempting to figure out how to resolve this. There were three other folks closely inspecting the area without noticing them. They were not there days beforehand.... It is certainly very odd. Yes I am 100% sure the interior is two-pack poly. I have the receipts for the paint purchased fr

Except the caulk AND the windows were removed four years ago without incident? This time it was only the groove of caulk around the window margins to allow for painting, the windows were not ripped out when this happened

Let's see... There is No Gel Coat on this hull, it's all epoxy and polyeurathane paint systems. There is fiberglass boat cloth under the 'glass' I postulate that if your theory were correct then we would have seen some indication of cracks appearing more gradually over time in the last few years... (Not over the course of a 1/2 hour while caulk was being scraped)

The windows have seen far more heat in the past. Besides, the boat is inside a paint shed and there is no direct insolation.

Yes ... but the 'modern' adhesives that were used January 2018 failed... I am very glad we had the bolts thru the polycarbonate. And while on the subject of thru bolting the glass... The windows have used thru-bolts for 22 years and the polycarbonate has never cracked, so the point stressing issue seems moot to me.

Yet there were no cracks until Feb 2022, This after a previous window removal three more haul outs including 3 months on the hard while all sorts of deck work went on, an overland transport, sailing in 7+ meter seas 45kn gusting 80kn to weather, and all sorts of 'stresses' ... So why suddenly and just only now and everywhere and all at once?

Window were already removed in Jan 2018 with no ill effects. That caulk was firmly gripping the glass and hard to remove. Yet no perimeter cracks showed up at that time. The sealant only around the edges of the glass was removed in Oct 2021 to paint around the edges of the surround. The glass was removed this time (Feb 2022) because the seal behind the glass appeared loose in Feb 2022. We have been advised to reuse the fasteners and will do so. Never caused cracking of the glazing before and it probably saved us the last time around. I'm not heading around the world with my polycarbo

Yes

The window surrounds are rather rigid and don't seem to flex easily. (we wound up removing all the windows on Thursday/Friday last week) because the sealant had loosened between the glazing and the ledger they sit in. This should not have happened either but I can see NO Way the yard could have caused this. With the windows now all removed.... the surrounds are very rigid and strong. The boat is exceptionally well built but still light and fast. The hull is 20mm thick except around the windows where it is much thicker due to the bog hiding the thru bolted Nuts. The cracks were first

General History Synopsys April 2001 Farrier F36/36 build (Cloudy Mountain Woodworks Bellingham, USA) Sept 2015 New all-carbon daggerboard fitted Winter 2016/17 Refit including new deck paint (indoors for 5 months) Oct 2017 depart Vancouver BC Canada Jan 2018 minor refit including window glazing replaced (Lexan + Dow 795). This installer seems to have had a very hard time removing the glazing but succeeded. (Note that the New Zealand Glazer says that if he installs the glazing then the next guy will literally tear the boat apart to get it out) Nov 2019 arr

We did all of the above and also brought a licensed surveyor in to review the cracks. The yard does not concur with us. The relationship is still very good. Here are four pictures of the cracks (two before grinding and two after grinding) and then three pictures showing the interior work and quality prior. I will try to post a highly annotated version of the history. This could get complicated and I am biased as the owner. What I am after is unvarnished impressions and advice in a situation where the yard has disagreed. The history will come next in a separate post following this

Still waiting to hear from a moderator... or is https://crew.org.nz/forum/index.php?/profile/24101-aardvarkash10/ a moderator on this forum?

We are North Americans with a Canadian boat hauled in a New Zealand Yard being worked on indoors since 9/15/2021. Some cracks developed on the interior recently and we feel the yard could be partially responsible. Is it appropriate to ask advice on this forum as to how to handle this in New Zealand. Or is it just airing grievances to elaborate the situation, by asking advice about how to handle this? I'd prefer not to be bringing this up at all, maybe a moderator could suggest if it's appropriate?

An update... so five months later we are now re-attaching the deck hardware. Things are extremely slow even though we work on it 5-1/2 to six days a week and have a full time Norsand lead carpenter working along side us... Many hick-ups and slow downs. The most recent (all-he-it minor) is the electric winch (Harken 40.2 installed in 2016) the poor fellow has spent almost all of 3-1/2 days re-installing it and just this Saturday (Feb 12th) he had to pull it for the third or forth time since he started. It will be four man-days to install this winch before we are done. This time to grind the st

Where did that break-off from, and exactly why/how did it break off? If you don't know, then i'm not interested. Not enough information here to understand what condition this is in?

Portends to be Made in New Zealand: Fluid Film Has anyone used this stuff and if so which one? http://www.fluidfilm.co.nz/ Fluid Film® is a lanolin based rust / corrosion preventive and lubricant that provides long term protection and lubrication for all metal surfaces. Fluid Film® locks out and displaces moisture while lubricating moving parts for extended periods of time. It will not be readily washed off with water, but creates a barrier of protection that continues to work even in the most corrosive of environments. Fluid Film® is the worldwide standard for corrosion protection a

Sorry, Just sold them this week on facebook

We have 600 watts of Flexible PV on our Bimini and radar arch combined. Then another 200 watts in panels we bring out in badly overcast winter conditions. These we strap to the boom and rotate them for altitude adjustment, occasionally swinging the boom out for azimuth. Two of the radar arch modules are also adjustable for altitude and azimuth. They do not last anywhere near as long as glass fronted modules. (I've some experience here having installed more than a 1000 modules in mostly terrestrial applications but also occasionally marine) My advice is to never get a PET front sheet and to loo

Nov 26 Update, Norsand has been outstanding. The painters have been working on Saturdays to complete the project and make up for time lost to unexpected repairs at the start. I can't say enough positive things about Aaron who is leading the paint job. We hope to have the boat repainted early-mid December and the mast and boom afterwards. Hopefully we can start putting all the hardware back on. Melanie and I have spent the last few weeks passivating the stainless and re-polishing all the 316 SS. We think that if it took two weeks to remove that we can get everything back on in three weeks

The international boarder where we're from has these regulations. Explained here: https://www.bewhalewise.org/ And the larger area with somewhat complicated zoning... Restrictions have been in place for over a decade where I'm from and there may be allot to be learned by looking to how other areas have resolved these issues. Requiring boaters to stop their vessels when anywhere within a 300M zone is not common.

Can you link us to this research?