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LBD

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Posts posted by LBD

    Public/Club moorings Auckland north?

    in MarineTalk

    Posted

    2 minutes ago, Bad Kitty said:

    Got a copy of the Royal Akarana Yacht Club cruising guide & a copy of William Owen's Hauraki Gulf cruising guide here from my father in laws library, now surplus to requirements & I already have them both.

    Yours for a decent bottle of Pinot Noir?

    I can do that.... I will be home from work 1 March...

    Will pm you... Trust me to select the wine?

     

     

     

    Public/Club moorings Auckland north?

    in MarineTalk

    Posted

    42 minutes ago, K4309 said:

    Are you talking about while you are on the boat, or leaving the boat unattended from time to time?

     

    I was talking about a 2-3 month holiday staying on board exploring that part of the country... one bay to another as the mood takes me.

    I would grab a marina if I had to leave unattended for a few days.

    Public/Club moorings Auckland north?

    in MarineTalk

    Posted

    looking to spend 2-3 months cruising between Auckland/Whitianga north to the cape.

    Are there any affiliated clubs or network of moorings that one can join for access to moorings up the east coast and islands?  (Like we have top of the South with the Pelorus/Waikawa bay/Mana clubs)

    Seized Volvo D1-20 Saildrive, low hours

    in TechTalk

    Posted

    5 hours ago, Frank said:

    No visual signs of water contamination in the oil, likewise no visible indications of the engine making metal but to be fair the oil hasn't been lab analysed.

    My son was solo on the boat at the time but as far as I can tell none of the usual signs of advanced bearing failure presented although its possible they were there but not obvious or noticed.

    I dropped the engine off at the rebuilders last tuesday but it will be at least another week before they tear it down, standby to standby.

    Good luck, I hope it is not terminal.

    • Upvote 1

    Seized Volvo D1-20 Saildrive, low hours

    in TechTalk

    Posted

    I know you said nothing in the sump.

    Did the oil level increase?... if there was water in the cylinder it would drain into your sump and you would have seen it... very very unlikely that is the cause, especially if it was running.... if you want to be doubly sure, put a little of the oil on a tea spoon and hold a lighter under it.... if it really crackles and pops as it heats, then there is some water in the oil but again unlikely to be the cause.

    Another trick is to put some oil in a screw top plastic bottle, put a magnet on top of the lid and turn upside down for a couple of hours. Then turn back upright leaving the magnet in place on the lid... unscrew the lid with magnet in place and see what magnetic debris is held there.

    Next step I would do is remove the oil filter and cut it open... try not to use a hacksaw as this will contaminate the paper with iron filings. Remove a section of paper pleats, concertina up, wrap in a rag and squash the oil out by clamping in a vice or g clamp... then open out the pleats in the sun with glasses on if your eyes are like mine and what do you see?  any shiny bits?

    As you noted earlier the engine does not turn even a fraction... this does indicate it is engine side of flywheel, there is always a little play in the drive spline and springs in the dampener plate... oh!... I do recall having seen a polymer drive plate break and jam between the flywheel and housing a lifetime ago.

    I am sorry I am not in your area, I would be there swinging spanners... I love a good mechanical mystery like this. 

     

     

    Rigging failures

    in TechTalk

    Posted

    18 minutes ago, K4309 said:

    Wouldn't the cyclic loading come from waves?

    I'm not wanting to sounds like a smart arse, just very interested in this with respect to my own rig. Just common or garden variety sailing would set up cyclic loading wouldn't it? Wind energy on the sail, tacking (changing the force from one side to the other) and of course the boat moving through waves, with the resultant forces on the mast being counter-acted by the rigging.

     The main culprit is mass of a furled sail on the forestay when furled. this causes the forestay and turnbuckle to sway side to side with every boat roll or movement, small or large. the number of alternating bending cycles accumulate over the years until eventual failure

    • Upvote 3

    Rigging failures

    in TechTalk

    Posted

    29 minutes ago, Frank said:

    In my old life in aviation we would sometimes call that dull middle bit the fast fracture zone where the crack propagated at speed to final failure.

    The striations either side of that we regarded as  fracture progress lines created as the crack propagated,probably over  some years. Yes it certainly started at the thread root  but it's hard to imagine where the cyclic loading is coming from, perhaps the furler ?

    There was an article in Boating NZ many years ago where some owner paid to have his rigging  x-rayed, visually everything looked fine but the x-ray showed cracking inside several of the roll swages, (02 depletion area ?) basically they looked mint but were ticking time bombs. Inexpensive Dye penetrant could be used in situ for checking  exposed threads, you dodged a bullet there, perhaps time for a lotto ticket  ;-)

    The cyclic loading comes from the forestay flexing side to side or possibly fore and aft... a look at the toggle setup will show all that is needed to know.

    I experienced exactly the same failure on a 1 1/4" thread on a turnbuckle on at 110 foot Crowther sailing Cat... lucky I spotted it before it broke. Only half of the correct toggle set up was fitted, the toggle would move fore and aft, but the thread was forced to flex  side to side under sail pressure on different tacks or the furled sail swaying side to side in a sea way. 

    • Like 1

    Rigging failures

    in TechTalk

    Posted

    See the line in the middle... that is where it has been bending back and forth and is the last point to fail. The crack clearly began in the root of the threads either side of that last failure line, and migrated to the center.

    Thread roots are stress risers.... This is less of an embrittlement failure and more of a flexing bending failure.

    The other clue is the broken piece sticking out appears bent to the right in the top photo.

    What is the toggle set up on the deck side of the turn buckle?

    Is the fracture line in line with the boats centre line or across?

     

    • Like 1

    Simrad RS40-B

    in TechTalk

    Posted

    So, I purchased the Simrad RS40-B VHF with AIS transmit and receive, along with a Splitter and NMEA 2000 back bone, plugged it together with the Raymarine Element 12S and wired it all up.... and it all works a treat. I am very happy and satisfied with the outcome.

    12s.jpg

    RS40B.jpg

    Your Glamour Photos

    in MarineTalk

    Posted

    6 hours ago, Elenya said:

    Yup a Dickinson heater, 3 inch flue. On the lowest setting the heater keeps the inside at 15 to 20 degrees above outside temperature. Tested down to minus 10 C although coldest this trip is mini 6 so far. Got a good cold snap over Alaska just started. Forecasting down to minus 20 where we are. 
    great simple heaters the Dickinson and fitted to most of the local commercial boats here who report they are fine over winter. We also have a second heating system independent of the Dickinson.

     

    Thanks, I have the same on our 37"... is ample for NZ winters, was not sure how it would go in colder climes. I think your Ovni is well insulated so that will also help you... looks like you are having fun, I am envious.

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