Keylime
Members-
Content Count
25 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Media Demo
Forums
Gallery
Calendar
Store
Everything posted by Keylime
-
Yea, though wouldn’t be able to get the winch arm in. Thinking about raising the cleats up somehow
-
Yea, and it works, but not adjustable while sailing and hard to use while the sheet is tight, the boat heeling and I’m on the opposite side of the cockpit
-
Very hard to use the winch cleats while the sheet is under strain and I’m on the other side of the boat
-
Hi, I'm having trouble cleating of the gib lines while sailing in moderate winds on my Tasman 20. The cleat is level with the winch, so when the winch has a few winds in it, it is hard to pull the line down into the cleat. It happens on both sides. I have both winches set up to take the line clockwise - I could change this, but it is still hard to cleat. See pictures - ignore the arrow on one. Any thoughts on what to do here? raise the cleats? (might be wobbly) lower the winches? (might be hard to access..)
-
right - it does seem quite low! Too low
-
Thanks. I got this recommendation on cruisers forum. https://www.velasailingsupply.com/viadana-swivel-base-w-adjustable-ball-bearing/?sku=VIA20.03&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpKyaip3S8QIVhLaWCh0npQyrEAQYAyABEgJoLPD_BwE Keen to find something in NZ as shipping atm takes ages. Good to have a couple of options. Thanks for your post.
-
This is what I’ve found from Harken. It’s two-part, and pretty big and chunky
-
Close, but I’m looking for a floor mount.
-
thanks - tried those links and still searching.
-
Hi, I’m replacing the main sheet on my Tasman 20, and would like to have a floor mounted block and cleat. Does anyone know where I can find one of these?
-
Thanks - I’ll keep away from acetone. Regarding the primer, for the Quilosa ms35 I don’t think it needs a primer, but I was going to etch the acrylic with a kitchen scourer. Is the primer needed for the Butyl tape?
-
I would be removing potentially fragments of what I guess is rubber (butyl?) from the acrylic, and preparing the surface for adhesion to butyl tape, and Quilosa MS35. I was anticipating using acetone to clean up rubber fragments. Better to use turps? (Isn't turps a thinner? What thinner do you not recommend?)
-
I wondered if you had recommendations on the type of Butyl tap to use? good tip about the angled nozzles https://www.glasscorp.co.nz/results.html?q=butyl+tape
-
Nice job! Did you use a glazing tape also? How did you prepare the surfaces?
-
I found this video that I think explains your method (can watch at double speed)- but with VHB tape. I've seen that butyl tape is recommended over VHB tape - though in this video the VHB tape that failed was being used without a sealant.
-
found these in other forums: Sikaflex MS: https://nzl.sika.com/en/46072/sealants-fillers/exterior-joints/walls-and-facades/sikaflex-ms.html Fixtech FS200: https://www.seamac.co.nz/new-products/fixtech-fs200-310ml-cartridge-black Dow Corning 795: https://www.dow.com/en-us/pdp.dowsil-795-silicone-building-sealant.01595717z.html QUILOSA MS35: https://www.glueguru.co.nz/shop/BRANDS/QUILOSA/QUILOSA+MS35+Adhesive+280ml+Cartridges.html Any preference? Maybe I won't need the bolts?
-
My windows leak, and my boat fills up. The windows were added by a previous owner, they're adhered with some kind of rubber, but it's come loose in several places. I plan to drill holes through the panes and fiberglass, remove the panes, clean the surfaces, apply a sealant, replace the panes and screw bolts through the pane and the fiberglass. Does anyone have feedback on this approach? Could you recommend a sealant? Sikaflex 291 seems to be an option - though it doesn't seem to be recommended for plexiglass ("Sikaflex®-291 must not be used to seal plastics that are prone to stress cracking (e
-
Yup have decided to get suzuki
-
Thanks for the tip. I’m in the shop looking at the 6HP Yamaha 4 Stoke 2014- $1600. It’s in great condition, but up against a brand new Suzuki I’m not sure which to go for.
-
Thanks for your comments. Any advice on the motor size?
-
Thanks for the comments. Great to see the divergent opinions on whether to replace! I think I'd like to upgrade, eventually to do a Cook Straight crossing without freaking out. I’m looking at 2 outboards now - 2 stroke Mercury 1995 8HP Short Shaft $500, or 4 stroke Yamaha, long shaft, 6HP, 2015, $1600. Any votes for either of these?
-
Excellent advice all around. I'm now restoring them, and yup, they're pretty simple, and full of dirt. I can see the the palls are quite worn. Does anyone know the brand of winch, or any palls that may be available that would fit?
-
Hi, I need to replace the outboard for a more reliable one on my 20" trailer sailor. This is a 1974 6HP Johnson short shaft. Would I be advised to go to a long shaft? I'm in Wellington where it is quite windy - what size outboard should I have?
-
I have a Tasman 20 with the original winches and I'd like to replace them. Does anyone have suggestions of what to use? Self-tailing seem to be pretty expensive (possibly more than the boat), so looking at more the 200 each kinda range. Second-hand would be considered too. Also, what type of cleat should I pair with this? Planning on attaching at location of arrow. I'm quite new to sailing so I appreciate the advice.