Tai

That was my first thought, well wondering if they had learnt that trick down here yet!

Had pretty special encounter with an Orca while anchored in Calypso yesterday. orca-compressed-720p.mp4

Yea I've been hunting down most of his dodgy wiring fixes and have redone that one but still no go. I'm over trying to get the old one to work now, and even if I did I still want the data on the network eventually. I guess if I can get it working it's the cheapest option, but the best I've had so far is a stuck reading of around 25M. Maybe I'll have one more attempt..

So my ancient depth transducer does not work, I've had the boat (stewart 34) about 7 months now and it never has. I had thought it was a standard thru hull type that you can swap out the insert on, but on closer inspection it is all one piece. I dont want to haul out until after the summer so I'm thinking of mounting one on a pole attached to the pushpit. I only really need it when anchoring so it would be raised when sailing. It would need to connect direct into the nmea2000/seatalkng network or the axiom 9 (with a very long cable) . Any ideas for something cost eff

I'm wanting to buy a raymarine wireless to seatalkng gateway or even one of the older ones that does NMEA 0183. Hopefully someone out there has taken out the tacktick instruments but still has the old interface hanging around?

Cool, Thanks. I couldn't get the name with the phones camera and my binoculars are in the boat! The last one a saw come in was a warrem cat but that was a year or more ago.

Anchored at Cornwallis. It's not often we see anyone who has ventured over the bar.

Thanks all, some good insights! For now I think I will just keep the current switching setup and replace one of the starts with a deep cycle. Last question I think! I have been running the house charge via alternator with out the start battery connected i.e after starting and running for a while, I switch the house in and then the start off. Is this OK? Or is just better to leave them both connected in parallel, even when the house is run down?

Right so this is almost what I have already except that I don't have a switch to put the house into parallel/start. I can see having the separate switch to bring them together would mean less chance of flattening the start. Also when manually switching like this I'm thinking there is a risk of disconnecting a battery without the other being connected first and frying the rectifier diode.

Mostly it was not wanting to lose any capacity and also that when running the windlass it seemed to loose some power after a short time, however that could be another problem I have that the engine controls currently wont let me adjust the revs while in neutral so I don't think the alternator is supplying a lot at idle.

Those VSR switch sets look nice but I would probably be better off just getting a bigger capacity cranking battery if I was to spend that much. I am going to be spending on a proper house battery and was hoping to keep both the exist cranking batteries without having to change the current setup much. The isolation setup I have now is simple, effectively the two batteries are in parallel and each isolator switch removes a battery. Manually managing this is fine for two batteries but will probably become a PITA with 3. Ideally I could just put both start batteries into perma

@harrytomYup, I always run the motor if I use the windlass (depends how strong I'm feeling) and the current setup uses the standard isolation switching and ability to put the house into parallel with the cranking battery. @aardvarkash10 Im trying to keep things as simple as possible and cost down so don't want to spend loads. I was hoping lead would be ok to monitor just the bank as a single battery, but your right that I should be keeping an eye on the voltage of each. Looks like I need to add another isolator / combiner switch other wise I'll be having to manually disconnect them

Hi all, first time poster here! I have seen some great discussion and advice here and I'm hoping someone can help with my battery setup! My newish to me Nova 28 is running a cranking battery as a house battery, obviously this is not great and I will add a deep cycle for the house. I am thinking of keeping the extra battery by connecting both crank batteries in parallel. They would also be used for the windlass. I like the idea of having the extra capacity so are there any issues with running like this or should I just take the extra battery out? Also would I need to match the