K4309

Thanks for all the replies. I've worked through all the options and are still on the hunt. The biggest batten Doyle's have at the moment is 20mm by 12mm. My current ones are 20mm by 8mm, so I'm not expecting the stiffness I'm after. Just went through Bunnings look at all sorts of conduit, pipe etc, as expected they are all way too soft. I've used fibreglass tent poles in the past, it's what I started with. Basically next to useless for my application, very bendy. Could work if I attached them to the toe rail each side and made a tunnel, but I'm really after a flat style sun

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Where did you get the stove from? Is it a new model or a hand-me-down? I see a new stove in my future at some stage, but am trying to kick that can down the road as far as I can. The LPG options available don't look nearly as good as the one I already have. My father and grandfather used to have primus brand camping stoves, i.e. a top notch kero stove. Not sure if you can get them now, I expect they cost moonbeams of you could, they were very good stoves. Bit of a knack to lighting them with the meths. Love the smell.

If you read the CAN notice, you will see that it says you can anchor in the CAN area. Under certain circumstances. It isn't possible to know that by flying over and going tut tut. It is getting to the point of spreading mis-information on this forum that you can't anchor in a CAN area. You can.

I am after stiff fibreglass sail battens for my boom tent. I'm after the solid type that keep the boom tent nice and flat. Got some old battens from my last mainsail and the boom tent bows over, any cross breeze and it's a pain in the arse. I've been seeing boats out over January with nice flat stiff boom tents - getting jealous. Anyone know an Auckland based supplier? I've done extensive googling and coming up with zilch (found loads of other useful companies, including the wholesaler for Planasol, which could be handy.

Why do you think they aren't allowed there?

It appears the CAN allows you to anchor in Omakiwi in that situation. Same as the Gt Barrier CAN Anchoring is permitted without the need to acquire a permit for the following situations: (1) In the event of an emergency that: c. no other alternative safe sheltering locations or mooring can be easily acquired. Te Rāwhiti Caulerpa Controlled Area Notice 2023 (mpi.govt.nz) The CAN also states you don't need a permit to leave the area if you anchored under Schedule 2, 1c. The whole idea of these can's is to stop the spread. Most of the enthuses is on not taking actual caul

Mooringbnb moorings and berths for rent

I don't know anything about those stoves, but I know you can get heat proof glass from most glaziers. This glass is designed for use in wood burner / fire doors, so should be an appropriate specification for your oven. In fact it is probably oven door glass they sold me for my fire door. I'd just phone a glass shop and ask them for oven door glass. The only question would be how to mount it / install it properly. I'd assume it has a gasket or surround with some screws or something. The only trick would be getting the size right. While you are sussing how to install a new piece, you could

There was a guy in the BOI doing half models commercially. But that was maybe 15 years ago now. I got one done of our boat as a gift for my father. Was about $250 ish at the time. I didn't have line drawings so had to take detailed profile photos of the hull out of the water. He sent me approximated line drawings from the photos, which I reckon were top notch.

I can do about 8nm on 2l with my Yamaha 2hp. That's at about 3.5knts, weighs 12kg, easy to lift with one hand. But I guess that wasn't the question. My apologies for interrupting.

Predictwind has all the model validation data available. The validation tab is under 'forecasts'. This quantifies which model is most accurate against observations. This way you don't need to listen to old wives tails about which model is most accurate. That, and what Bad Kitty says. For me, the whole point of PW is 6 models side by side, if they all agree, you have high confidence in the forecast, if they all say something different, role the dice. Every other site (Metservice, windy etc) only use one model. Each model is sometimes good, sometimes not depending on the situation

Fluffy could be over zincing with cathodic protection. It strips something out of the wood (Lignund?) leaving just the cellulose wood fibres - note, my terms might not be right, but the effect is the same. Excessive cathodic protection on wood is a thing. We have a double diagonal kauri boat of similar vintage and had a spot of this. We've dealt with rot as well, including replacement of large parts of the ply deck, after we removed the teak overlay. Either way, you need to take it out. On how to take it out, that is really up to you. Ours was in the keelson, so we could get at it to

Never used a long board. I think they are for new builds when you need to get massive humps and hollows fair. If your boat is basically fair, and you sand it back, then you shouldn't need any longboarding. Noting that when you use that blue guide coat you'll get a handle on it. I'd expect touch ups rather than bulk fairing.

We did what you are describing on our own boat. Prep'ed it and got a pro in to do the top coat. Brush finished, which is good for 2-5m, as opposed to a spray finish which is good at 0.5-1m, but costs much more (if done within OSH rules). Get a big random orbital sander. Start with 40 grit to strip everything back. Don't skimp on the sander. I've seen guys trying to use 'lady' sanders, it was hopeless. Loaned them ours and they were all smiles. I can't remember the details on layers etc, as it was about 12 years ago, but follow the directions on the tin. Seriously, I'm not trying to b

I wonder how they got around not getting 'gifted' a name by Ngati Orakei. I guess if they aren't creating any lanes or roads that need to be registered with LINZ(?) then they avoid all the rules on only naming new things in Te Reo.

The point is that the Volvo carry helmets and use them when they feel the need. We went down that path cause HT said the Volvo wouldn't be able to stop in Auckland if YNZ mandated wearing helmets. Just pointing out that arguement is nonsense. If you have a look around, keelboat racing is the only sailing sport that doesn't use helmets now. Dinghies, Volvo, America's Cup, Wind/Wing-foiling, kiting all use helmets. Keelboat racing is the odd one out. Extending HT's point that if helmets are mandated it will be the death of sailing. I'd argue that if keelboat sailing is so slow and

Good to see you can form a cohesive and compelling arguement, focusing on the topic at hand, using facts and examples to support your point. Just having a pop at the poster makes it look like you have nothing worth saying.

Helmet on a Volvo boat.

Absolutely. A fully barred up Open 60 is a completely different proposition to the average Gulf Racer / Cruiser, but that isn't what HT said. He said the Volvo race wouldn't be able to stop in Auckland if YNZ passed a rule requiring wearing of helmets. The ignorance is that the Volvo guys can do risk assessments properly, have worked out they can't do 700nm a day if they are concussed, and more to the point, if they are trying to do 700nm/day, there is a reasonable chance they will get thrown around enough to need a helmet. And the fact they are already carrying and using helmets.

The ignorance is high with this one. The Volvo fleet carry helmets and wear them often.

This shows a good level of ignorance. With the Ross boom, it is very easy to remove the risk. i.e. by lowering the cockpit floor a bit. Lowers centre of gravity and everyone is happy. Or, heaven forbid, just shortening the mainsail luff. The fact that so many other race boats can work it out demonstrates it is not hard. Far easier to do it at the design stage, hence the name, 'safety in design'. With chainsaws, we have found it is really hard to cut firewood with a butter knife. i.e. there is no way even get close to getting the job done without having an exposed chain on a bar. Henc

In modern parlance, this would be a 'safety in design' issue. It's not good to design or build something with an inherent risk of serious injury from normal use.

I am definitely not advocating any rule changes or compulsion to wear helmets. Rules don't make you safer, assessing the risks and managing them yourself makes you safer. It's more that I've been sailing for maybe 35 years and it never occurred to me to carry a helmet on the boat. Now these deaths and serious injuries are coming to light, it made me ask the question "should I?" It is more about the inertia in change of thought and view of these things. I wear a helmet wind-foiling and never thought anything of it. When I first saw kids in Open Bics with helmets I thought it was