K4309
-
Content Count
741 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
53
Content Type
Profiles
Media Demo
Forums
Gallery
Calendar
Store
Posts posted by K4309
-
-
2 hours ago, harrytom said:
Now why doesnt MPI/Council or Iwi drop 2 hundred moorings in affected areas and charge a over night fee? $10 per night max 2 nights,then your friends could raft up.Hmm new years party in the making.
You'd need a resource consent to do that.
If you're going to go to all that trouble of getting a resource consent, you may as well drop in a whole marina...
-
39 minutes ago, Guest said:
If Lithium chemistry (any sort) is currently not acceptable for starting an auxiliary motor, does this include in an emergency? And, essentially is the provision for same in terms of wiring legal or illegal.?
It really is a fundamental safety element to be able to parallel the house batteries to start the engine when the start battery has an issue. I've never heard of anyone successfully push-starting a boat. In my view not being able to do this, or having questions marks over doing this is a major red flag for Lithium.
I really don't understand how everyone says lithium are so great when all these issues are hanging around.
As an aside, when I was looking at Lithium batteries, one of the suppliers made a point of telling me the BMS was fully serviceable. I was rather confused as to why you'd need to service the BMS. It is now apparent that you could do something fairly innocuous like parallel it to the start battery and blow a FET with inrush current trying to start your engine. Ending up in black-ship state and needing to spend boat dollars fixing said super amaze-balls battery's BMS.
-
1
-
-
1 hour ago, Brien said:
You might have to justify why you would plan your trip to arrive when and where you could not safely navigate.
I don't think you can use Schedule 2 Clause C willy nilly. The point is that situations change en-route.
There is also the requirement that there be an emergency. Again, the skipper is the sole arbiter of what constitutes an emergency on his boat.
I'd make a note in the logbook if something cropped up mid-voyage.
"Not been able to prepare dinner while underway, getting hungry, emergency declared at 17:42 hours, diverting to Bowling Alley Bay"
"Feeling a bit queasy, clearly haven't got my sealegs yet. Emergency declared at 13:15, diverting to Bowling Alley Bay"
Or any manner of equipment failures, blocked heads, dicky autopilots that occur when you start using your boat at the start of the summer holidays. All of these minor things can distract the skipper and compound, via domino theory, to a serious incident.
My main point is you are fully allowed to anchor in the red zones if there is a justifiable need under schedule 2 clause C. It is not appropriate if people are having a shithouse crossing with things going wrong, getting excessively fatigued, seasick, gear playing up or breaking etc to blindly struggle on to Fitzroy when there are safer anchorages nearby.
I doubt you could justify going to Bowling Alley cause you'd been fishing at the Broken Islands and you just felt like it. You need a reason, and I'd document that reason in your logbook. But the skipper is the sole arbiter of safety on his boat, and depending on the circumstances, that reason could be fairly minor in the scale of things. There is nothing there about needing to declare a mayday, call for a rescue helo or even to report the 'emergency'. On this point, there is a sound argument to take action early to avoid some sort of big f*ck-up that does require a Mayday or rescue Helo.
-
26 minutes ago, Guest said:
And clearcoat on your car.
Haha, so you've seen the child sized handprint on the back of my car then?
Sunblock them up then jump in the car to go to the beach... Nekminnit sunblock handprint...
But that stuff must be safe, we lather ourselves in it daily all summer.
-
1 hour ago, aardvarkash10 said:
Suntan lotion
Suntan lotion is very bad for PVC dinghies. It reacts with the plasticers. I thought it makes it go a tacky / sticky though. It is a known problem though, suntan lotion wrecking PVC. It is probably the most plausible explanation.
-
8 minutes ago, Psyche said:
So if you arrive in the evening and dont want to navigate through Man O War for example?
Fatigue is the underlying cause of a massive number of accidents.
If a prudent skipper had a choice of proceeding directly to Bowling Alley Bay, which depending on where you were coming from is maybe 4 to 6 miles closer, and avoided navigating past multiple sunken rocks, islets and islands and then down an incredibly narrow, unlit, rock lined channel. It's already dark, the crew is tired (if you have one) and the skipper is fatigued, what option would the prudent skipper take?
Obviously, based on the CAN, the Skipper would have needed to set out for and intended to make Fitzroy, but lets say they were latter departing due to unforeseen circumstances, or did not achieve the calculated average speeds due to weather conditions, or that, despite planning to arrive at Man o War passage prior to night fall, now wont, then, (in my view) the CAN has provision for legitimately anchoring in Bowling Alley Bay, or any other bay in the red zone, provided their is a justification under Schedule 2 Clause C.
-
1
-
-
2 hours ago, Psyche said:
Ok so if I have got this right, you can drift about and fish/dive/spear but not net, dredge or anchor in Red, you can park in Yellow but must clean your gear
Yes, but you can anchor in red if you observe Schedule 2 Clause C of the CAN:
Anchoring in emergencies:
Anchoring is permitted without the need to acquire a permit for the following situations:
1) In the event of an emergency that
c) no other alternative safe sheltering locations or mooring can be easily acquired.
-
1 hour ago, Frank said:
My experience exactly and the replacement lip seal unit leaked even worse , finally solved with a sail drive
Crikey.
What brand lip seal did you go with? Was your shaft in good condition? We put a new shaft in at the same time as the dripless seal. There was a bit of necking on the old shaft. I suspect that would have made it difficult for a lip seal to sit down properly.
We did have to put a water pump onto it to provide cooling water. It was thought we wouldn't need to but the temp alarm went off after a long motor one day. Very strait forward putting a water pump on, no issues there, but it was another job and another item to keep an eye on in the future.
-
1
-
-
3 hours ago, aardvarkash10 said:
Thanks K. I'm not inclined to double the value of SO by lashing out on dripless seals, so I will be rebuilding this system. If it was just a bit I'd be ok but it's about a litre an hour of run time and slowly getting worse.
As P said, I'd just repack and lots of grease. Since you have the shaft out and your own the hard, re-packing is super easy. I have an idea the replacement hemp stuff is only something like $20.
In my view, you can't have too much grease. If you over-pump it, it just comes oozing out, hardly a major issue. You can over tighten them of course, but you can't really over pump it. I used a regular grease gun so I could just drop a cartridge in it. None of this trying to scoop grease into your little 1/4 turn thingee thing. If you are trying to scoop grease into the thingee thing, you could be getting air pockets, which may explain the excessive dripping. It could possibly be that you need to tighten the gland up a bit too. It is a tricky balance not getting it too tight, but tight enough to not drip too much.
-
1
-
-
If you feel like spending boat dollars, and have a little space, you can retrofit a dripless shaft seal. We did this after years of tolerating our packing gland dribbling and carrying on. Haven't looked back.
We got one from Henleys. Was in the order of $600 / $700 about 5 years ago.
Alternatively, you can re-pack the stuffing and connected a grease gun to it. I'd give the grease gun a pump or two every time we'd been out. I was super smart and put two connecting hoses onto the grease gun, so I didn't have to crawl to the far end of the bilge to get at it.
Noting that packing glands will always dribble a bit. It is just how they work. If you want a dry bilge you have to part with the boat dollars for the dripless seal.
-
1
-
1
-
-
1 hour ago, CarpeDiem said:
Your cells are designed for energy storage. They meet a different design profile. Just like some Lead AGMs are designed for starting and some are designed for deep cycle.
There are LFP cells that will discharge at 180C pulse, 90C for 2 seconds and 45C continuous... A 10Ah battery made with those cells would start a 3GM30
Instead of FETs a starter battery bms would use an automotive grade relay found in electric vehicles.
Is the inference then that if you try starting the donk with a standard LiFePo house battery, say by paralleling it with the start, you could fry the FET in the BMS and be a bit buggered?
I've fried FET's in my autopilot. Didn't have to try very hard, just a fairly innocuous system malfunction and then the the whole thing was buggered.
-
1 hour ago, Guest said:
No, ALL types of batteries are being assessed at 80/50%; it just gives the remaining % of Original capacity for LiFePO4, which it doesnt for LA. So we have to speculate on that. What it illustrates is the ratshit cycles of LA lower than 50% DOD.
I don't understand this.
How can it have 70% capacity remaining if it has been discharged to 80% DoD?
Are they measuring DoD as a percentage of full charged voltage o discharged voltage, and DoD as a % of amphr capacity?
Edit, posted at the same time as CD's post.
-
15 hours ago, Frank said:
Below is a summary comparison of the different battery types, LiFePo seems to score heavily in all categories. Our LiFePo has 330 Ah and we run an 800W microwave , 1200 W kettle and 1000 W induction top plus the usual sundry items like fans, lights etc. We have 440 W of Solar and a DC to DC charger, as far as I can tell the Solar has been sufficient so far but it might be different in the SI in Autumn. The array is wired in series as I was told the Higher Voltage provides better charging when the sun is low. We experimented one day by using all the appliances like there was no tomorrow and kept the lights on etc, the battery dipped to 68% and was back to 100% by the end of the day. The low internal resistance, flat charge profile and high available capacity are a real boon. Not having to set the land yacht up for LPG was also a significant win and cost offset.
All that said it was expensive and I totally get the argument that lead Acid chemistries are often the more financially attractive option particularly as it works as a Drop in.
For interest I was quoted 14 to 16K for a Turn Key installation at 300 Ah including solar panels. The Electrical Inspector who issued COC certificate said that the regs on Lithium Battery installation were being updated and he had to be diligent in keeping abreast of the latest requirements. That was in 2021 so it might have settled down by now.
COMPARISON OF LEAD-ACID AND LiFePO4 CHARACTERISTIC FLA AGM GEL LYTH LiFePO4 BENEFIT OF LiFePO4 Voltage 12V(2V per cell) 12V(2V per cell) 12V(2V per cell) 12.8V(3.2V per cell) More Power Life Cycles @ 80% DOD 500 400 1000 7100(to 70% remaining capacity) Longer Life Life Cycles @ 50% DOD 900 800 1400 13000(to 70% remaining capacity) 6-10X More Weight 30kg(66.1 lbs) 32.7 kg(72.1 lbs) 32kg (70 lbs) 13.5kg(30 lbs) <1/2 the Weight Capacity @ 27℃ C20 130Ah 115Ah 102Ah 100Ah Constant Power and C5 105Ah 91Ah 85Ah 100Ah Energy at any Rate C1 74Ah 62Ah 70Ah 100Ah of Discharge Capacity @ 0℃ 50% 68% 68% 90% Superior cold temp performance Charge Time 6-12 hours 6-12 hours 6-12 hours 1-3 hours 4-6x Faster Maintenance HIGH LOW LOW NONE No Maintenance Real Cost per cycle @80% DOD $0.67 $0.92 $0.57 $0.31 Cost over life I'm sorry but isn't this comparison chart a nonsense?
For life cycles, they are assessing FLA, AGM and Gel to 80% DoD, but for Li they say "70% capacity remaining", which is 30%DOD, isn't it?
Then they use those numbers to present the 'Real Cost per cycle @80% DoD' as more than half as much for Li.
Accept it's not 80% DoD, its 30%. If you run any of those other battery technologies to 30% DoD they will last for ages as well. It makes the comparison a complete nonsense.
-
19 hours ago, prince rupert said:
Thank you for your observations, very pertinent!
My boat has what I believe is a fairly common set up. I mean N 1 switch for starting battery. N 2 switch for house and N 3 switch for both together, in case the starting battery goes flat ( i suppose).
Would this mean that if I have switch N3 on I could take alternator charge for starting and house battery at the same time?
I have a simple cut off aparatus on the starting battery that shuts off when it reaches 14.5v (?)
Would this a good enough redundancy to charge a house battery in case of low light or say solar pannel faliure???
I don't have the knowledge to answer your question, re if you can safely parallel you lithium.
I would argue that you either have the new Li connected solely to solar, or, if there is a way to switching it to the alternator, you need to install the full requirements to protect the alternator.
If you are in a situation where you need to parallel your house and start, you are already vulnerable to system issues. If you blow your alternator, your engine wont run, or will only run on the remaining start battery power. To recap, as soon as the Li is fully charged, the BMS shuts it off*. If the alternator is charging (which it must be for the battery to reach 100%) then there is an uncontrolled load dump, i.e. the battery suddenly stops taking the alternator power. That power has nowhere to go and the alternator goes bang. * If you don't have a smart charging system that shuts down prior to the BMS triggering.
Note that if your primary charge source is solar, you can get a low capacity DC-DC charger, like a 10a one. These are maybe $150-$200, and if you get a victron one, you get full monitoring via blutooth and an app on your phone. The problem with DC-DC chargers are where you want to charge your Li at high current, that is where DC-DC chargers get expensive.
I don't even know if you can use Li to start an engine. I never got that far in my investigations before I found a better option. Others have commented the regs don't allow it. Note that the resting voltages of your start and a Li may mean that you can charge a start from the Li directly (resting voltage of Li 14.2, resting voltage of a flat start maybe 12v, fully charged and resting 12.8v). Also, if you have solar, why not charge you start directly?
Question: Why do you want a Lithium battery? If you have a standard, simple system, why do you want to add complexity and risk dropping high tech into it?
The Kijo Lead-Carbon batteries will be a straight drop, will accept all the charge your solar can produce, don't need to be fully charged, can be used to parallel your start battery in emergencies, and can charge straight off your alternator. Space may be a question, but note that they can be installed on any angle or any side accept upside down. Two of mine are standing on their short end, while the third is sitting flat as normal. Lead-carbon's main application is off-grid solar.
Edit: Victron do a 9a 12v DC charger for $110, or an 18a for $190. If you really want Li, the cost of adding one of these is low, provided your primary charging is via solar due to the low charge capacity of the DC charger. It will protect your alternator though.
DC-DC Converters – Tagged "Orion Isolated" – AEP Victron Energy Store
-
4 minutes ago, chariot said:
Mercs are another option. Then again, that could be crowded with large part of Barrier out of bounds.
Doesn't Mercs still have an anchoring ban?
-
1 hour ago, Bad Kitty said:
I suspect Fitzroy will be pretty manic, unless a lot of people stay away. The big issue will be when a NE system comes thru, and limited safe anchoring in a storm becomes very desirable real estate. There's other places to go & anchor, but that red area on the CAN wipes a lot of them out.
Cavalli's is looking pretty good again!
Noting that you can anchor anywhere in the CAN on the grounds of safety.
I've not seen any guidelines on that, and I wouldn't just go anchoring in Bowling Alley or Whangaparapara willy nilly, but the skipper has sole responsibility and discretion as to what is safe and not for their vessel.
If you as skipper deem you need to anchor in the CAN anchoring ban on safety grounds, you can.
-
50 minutes ago, CarpeDiem said:
That's an over generalization. Some AGMs made with lower grade materials may have that limit.
A good marine grade AGM will be rated to accept unlimited alternator current. The current is limited by the internal characteristics of the battery.
Eg, Optima Yellowtop AGMs state "no amperage limit" when charging from alternator.
My 75Ah Optima D31 accepts ~65Amps when charging from empty.
Many quality AGM batteries are rated at 0.5C or above by the manufacturer.
But you pay for the privilege...
Maybe.
A lot of punters shop on price.
You would need to be fairly well educated on batteries to shop on charge acceptance. When I was looking at batteries earlier in the year I found it very very hard to find technical specifications for batteries I was looking at. The likes of Burnsco and Smart Marine certainly didn't provide that information. Some of the more specialised battery suppliers did, but most of the time I had to go and find the manufacturers specs and link it back to the exact model of battery being offered. That took a lot of time and faffing.
I don't recall seeing any AGM's that could take 0.5C, but that is more than likely that I excluded them on price before looking at their tech specs. Are the Optima's a spiral battery? For some reason I was steering clear of spiral batteries. Either I didn't understand them, or there was some other aspect around charging profile that didn't fit for me.
-
35 minutes ago, prince rupert said:
Most comments seem to have the alternator in mind as the main source of charge.
In my case, the alternator is charging the starting battery and 330w solar l charges the house bank. I don't wish to use the engine to charge the batteries.
This is limiting how may amp I can charge at right?
Is it fair to assume that daily the 330 w panel whould give me 15 amph x 8h= 120amp?
The 15amph should be the top charging that i should match a battery to, right?
So, if a 100 amp LC specs say optimal charge between 10A and 20A, that is a battery I should get?
or can the mppt controller somehow amplify... the charge delivered in example exeeding what the solar panel output is?
also, I would need two 100amp CL batteries to supply estimated power usage of 70amp daily. In paralel?
woul the 330w panel still be enough?
Hopefully it is all clear...
Cheers
If you don't want to use alternator charging, installing Lithium is dramatically easier. You don't have to worry about an uncontrolled load dump blowing up the alternator when the Lithium BMS cuts off at full charge.
Others on here have more knowledge than me, but I think you can connect solar via an MPPT basically straight to the Lithium BMS. I'm sure a gizmo or two would be handy, but all the argofets, DC-DC charging, parallel lead acid and what not are not needed, as they are to protect the alternator in a load dump.
If you want 70amp/hrs for daily consumption, your 330W of solar should easily cover that. Converted to 12v, they should be giving you 27 odd amps. If the battery can accept all of that (which lithium can, as there is no tail charging current), then you would need less than 3 hours of full sun. Accounting for a bit of panel degradation over time (max 20%), and a bit of sub-optimum angle (lets say an average of 20% less output over the day), you should be still averaging about 18 amps, which to give you 70 amp/hrs means you need maybe 4 hours of sun. Short story is that should be easily achievable with a bit of generation capacity to spare.
On comparison in this application of Lead-Carbon and Lithium, both will tolerate partial state of charge, so if you don't fully charge the batteries it doesn't matter. Lithium will take all the solar power you can give it until it hits 100%. The Lead-Carbon will take all the solar you can give it in the bulk charging phase, up to about 80% of capacity. After that it has a tail charging current, where the current it will accept will drop down to zero as the charge approaches 100%. Generally on solar this is fine, as solar is quiet, and carries on charging a wee bit as the sun drops late afternoon. I'd expect the decision will come down to cost.
You can account for the lead-carbon tail charging current being slower by increasing the battery capacity. This is so you don't have to get to 100% charge. Basically size the battery bank to work between 50% and 80% DoD. You will get to 95%-100% most of the time, so this is a bonus. For 70a/h between 50% and 80%, you'd need a 230 A/h bank. 300a/h of Kijo Lead carbon was $900. I'm not across current pricing for Lithium, but to get 70A'h working capacity you'd probably want a minimum 100 Ah Lithium (not going below 20%), ideally maybe 150 Ah. I'd take a punt at battery cost at $1,500-$2,000.
Probably the big question is how many days you'd want to go for without solar charging (assuming full cloud) on the basis it is your only charge source. You'd want to increase the battery bank capacity to give you a day or two up your sleave I'd think. Are you panels rigid or flexible? the rigid panels give much better low light and cloudy conditions charging that flexible panels.
-
1 hour ago, CarpeDiem said:
The key takeaway is that the problem happens with both chemistries if the system components aren't matched.
LC is not better than LFP.
LFP is not better than LC.
What's best/better is a solution that meets your requirements.
Absolutely agree with this.
The reason I'm banging on about Lead-Carbon is (in my perception) that the marine media, social media and marketing have established a narrative that Lithium is the latest and greatest, the extension being that it is the only option to consider. As we can see by this thread (and may similar threads) there are limitations to Lithium.
There are applications / situations where Lead-Carbon will be better, cheaper, safer and less complicated. Especially when someone's AGM's have died (again) and they are looking for a better option. So I guess I'm banging on about it in the interests of balance.
On overcharging / matching the charge current with the battery, I'd bet you a good bottle of whisky most AGM's die through over-charging (or related operator abuse). Especially since AGM's can only handle 0.1C.* Understanding the system properly, any system, is key. The value of a Balmar smart regulator can't be overstated in that regard.
It is interesting that there are standards for Lithium to monitor and warn of system function. I think the easiest way to cook a battery is hooking a dumb charger up to it. I would have thought a smart regulator and battery monitor would be minimum requirements on Lead Acid (AGM) installations. I guess with LA it is not so much a safety issue as an inconvenience and cost if you are constantly cooking and replacing your batteries.
*If you have a standard Volvo Penta 115Amp alternator, and it is not de-tuned, you'd need about 1,200 Amp/hrs of AGM batteries installed to keep them within the charging parameters of 0.1C. I'd hate to see how long the tail current charging is on 1,200 Amp/Hrs, or the physical size and weight of that battery bank. I'd take a punt the average AGM house battery bank is 3 to 4 times too small based on that 0.1C charging number.
-
1 hour ago, mcp said:
It's not that difficult or vastly expensive to spec an engine with big alternators. The picture below is of a recent install of mine with a lithium bank being happily and safety charged at 5.8kw off a 110hp engine with 2x large frame alternators. The Alternator setup including electronics and my time was just over $1 a watt. This was excluding a mount bracket that needed to be made.
Totally agree with Islandtime about the comparison with lead carbon, and ill add that lead carbon have pretty bad voltage sag under high load draw in my experience.
How big / what sort of boat do you have mcp?
For me, that is a mind boggling amount of power, but for context, my boat is a 40 yr old 37fter with a 35 Hp engine. But I have mates with a 57fter who enjoy a water maker, air con, 3 fridges and freezers and of course hot and cold running water etc. Oh and espresso machine, of course
Whilst I know it is not technically difficult to set up a system to charge at 1C, my question was around how often people actually need to charge at 1C. They 'why' bit. My assumption is that charging at 0.5C would really be here nor there for most systems / people.
-
1 hour ago, CarpeDiem said:
Thanks. I find it strange that 2008 is the only version referenced in the regulations.
Section 3 of the Electrical Safety Regulations 2010, which is the legal instrument that gives authority to the as/nzs standard states that:
the regulations do not apply to pleasure vessels unless they have connectable installations.
connectable installation is one that is designed or intended for, or is capable of, connection to an external power supply that operates at a nominal voltage between 90 and 250 volts AC at standard low voltage.
The above clauses in the regulations indicate to me, that if you don't have AC, (or AC self generation including inverters), then the regulations do not apply to a pleasure vessel.
Crikey, understanding the rules for a proper LiFePo installation sounds like a ball-ache.
Who said Lead-Carbon wasn't comparable to LiFePo? Need to add 'understanding which regulations are applicable' to the list of benefits for Lead-Carbon.
-
23 minutes ago, CarpeDiem said:
Gutted. Was hoping to get to Port Fitzroy for our first time this summer.
Edit:
) Port Fitzroy Permit Exempt Anchoring Zone: means the area contained
within the marine waters of Port Fitzroy, east of a line between Kotuku Point
and Mt. Overlook headland of Kaikōura Island /Selwyn Island, and east of a
line between the Man of War Passage and Governor Pass.Where is that?
There is a map in the CAN, I can't copy / paste it for some reason, you can anchor in all of Fitzroy.
Check this link Exotic Caulerpa Aotea and Ahuahu Controlled Area Notice 2023 (mpi.govt.nz)
-
1
-
-
Basically the only change is that netting, trawling and dredging is banned.
But with any luck the average punter will be too thick to read the rules, everyone will think Barrier is closed, and I will get the place to myself.
-
STOP THE PRESS!!!!!!
You can still anchor in Fitzroy AND, You can still go fishing, spearfishing and a bunch of other stuff.
When is a CAN not a CAN?
Exotic Caulerpa Aotea and Ahuahu Controlled Area Notice 2023 (mpi.govt.nz)
6 Notice of controls for Great Barrier Island Zone (Zone A) For the purposes of the controls imposed below, Zone A is referred to as “the Great Barrier Island Zone”.
(1) No person may remove any sea organisms (such as fish, seaweed, crayfish, or shellfish) from the Great Barrier Island Zone except by the following methods:
(a) Line fishing from the shore. Line fishing includes rod and line and handline fishing from the shore or structure fixed to the shore such as a jetty, pier, or wharf;
(b) Drift fishing from a vessel (e.g., boat, kayak, etc.);
(c) Spearfishing and hand-gathering;
(d) Shore based longlining (e.g., kontiki or drone). For avoidance of doubt, no person may use the following methods to remove sea organisms (such as fish, seaweed, crayfish, or shellfish) from the Great Barrier Island Zone: net fishing (i.e., flounder net), and bottom contact fishing methods (i.e., dredging, bottom trawling, etc).
(2) No person may move any of the following items out of the Great Barrier Island Zone without complying with the cleaning directions in clause 8(1): (a) Any equipment used for fishing or other water-based activities (including, but not limited to, diving, kayaking, canoeing, swimming, snorkelling, free diving, and paddling) including footwear, wetsuits, diving equipment, and boat-trailers and associated vehicles and craft. (3) Subject to clause 6(4) and 6(5), no craft (such as boats) may enter and then anchor within the Great Barrier Island Zone without first being granted a permit. (4) A person does not require a permit under clause 6(3) in the event of an emergency where no other alternative safe sheltering locations or mooring can be easily acquired.
(5) A person does not require a permit under clause 6(3) within the following area: (a) Port Fitzroy Permit Exempt Anchoring Zone: means the area contained within the marine waters of Port Fitzroy, east of a line between Kotuku Point and Mt. Overlook headland of Kaikōura Island /Selwyn Island, and east of a line between the Man of War Passage and Governor Pass
Cancel your Great Barrier plans this Summer
in MarineTalk
Posted
There is no logic.
There is no logic to any of it. It's just rules for rules sake. To look like something is being done, when it isn't. It is just how our country deals with stuff. Stuff and nonsense.