Abel Seaman

Well the simple answer is of course that knots is generally and historically speed through the water, not over the ground. It only became possible to accurately measure speed over the ground with the advent of GPS which was just yesterday in navigational history terms. If the tide is going out and you are restricted to 5 knots coming up the channel, it could take quite a while to get there. There is another example in Mapua. Not much point in a 5 knot speed limit when the outgoing current is 6 knots! Hence the existance of a higher speed transit zone which has a max speed of 15 knots (sp

Hmmm. Any superyacht worthy of the name will have sophisticated electronics and maneuvering capability such that they should be able to program station keeping so that they stay in one position sans anchor. If they program a back and forth path at say 0.1 knot, they are technically underway. Can they charge vessels for being underway in the harbour? Paid lackies will of course keep a 24 hour lookout.

I have a Young 780WB which has a transom but also has a hinged door/gate in one side of the transom. The transom also carries the rudder and the outboard. Don't see either on this pic? I like the gate thing as it makes access from the ground really easy when on the trailer and makes boarding a dinghy easy when afloat. The gate is not overly robust, and I have toyed with removing the gate in favour of open transom but have decided not to for 2 reasons: 1. I often have non sailing family and friends aboard who feel more secure in an apparently closed cockpit. 2. Having it fully open with

OK so far 1 very good response to my original question, thank you Ex TL systems for your signal, your input is appreciated. Maybe keeping the 20 year old OB is a good option. Lots of (noise) about the rules of this forum. I still dont know why i am too untrustworthy to edit my own posts for typo errors but there it is! Meantime, my original serious question stands: Edited and abbreviated: What is the best OB for a Young 780 WB? Opinions please. Thanks John

OK, I give up. I wanted to edit the original post slightly, but there seems to be no way to do this. I have read the help files and they tell me that I have options in my profile, but i have been through every tab and no such option is visible. Help!

My 97 Honda 15 HP outboard on my Young 780 WB is showing its age. What is the best replacement and why? The honda is heavy but quite economical on fuel pushing the boat at 6.8 knots with a high thrust propellor. I like the idea of a 2 stoke 9.x HP Tohatsu which will weigh nearly 15 kg less, but will like the noise and higher fuel consumption. (Note that it is not the cost of fuel that is an issue so much as the need to carry more when starting a cruise. If I doubled the fuel cost it would still be relatively little compared to overall running costs.) As the motor is transom mounted it ne

Please don't assume that all electricians know what they are doing! I work in industrial automation and control and employ industrial electricians. Our bane is (fully certified ) electricians who only have experience of wiring houses and cowsheds, but don't know the depth of their own ignorance in industrial situations. Similarly my main industrial electrical contractor who is hugely competent to wire an entire industrial site knows little about boats and marine wiring - and admits it. My own boat was rewired by an auto electrician for a previous owner. He had clearly never heard of tinned

Broom handle? Axe handle? Shovel handle? Ash is commonly used as it is a hardwood and a very strong and shock resistant. Brilliant stuff. I laminated my tiller with ash and teak. It is unbelievably stiff and strong, but it is clear coated and entirely visible and I will therefore know if it gets damp. You see, unfortunately Ash has about the same durability rating as untreated radiata, which is to say it will fail dismally in situations of high moisture = rot susceptibility. Hardwood does not automatically mean durable. Balsa, for example, is technically a hardwood but has the all the dura

To answer your earlier question Damien, as a Young 780 owner, I would actually agree 100% with Theseus. At the time i bought my 780, I couldn't stretch to a Noelex 25. Now i could and choose not to. I have however been sailing for many years and took care to ensure the reefing systems on my boat are well rigged and functional. As Theseus says, Youngs do have large sail areas so you need to be prepared to reef early and reef often. If you can stretch your finances a Noelex 25 would be ideal for your needs. They also seem to be holding their value better than any other TS or Keeler i am a

A few thoughts you Damien. I have a young780 on a 2 axle non braked trailer which i tow happily with my Ford Territory from Mapua as far as havelock and waikawa on occasions. I have towed it with my manual 2.5 litre forester to Kaiteriteri on rare occasions with no problems. Kaiteriteri ramp is quite flat and the only place i use my extension drawbar. Someone said a young 780 was a bit slow in an earlier post. Not so if the boat is rigged and sailed well. I can beat a Noelex 25 in light to medium winds but their greater ballast gives them the advantage in stronger winds. Glass over ply i

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Inhalation of fumes from welding zinc coated steel is called "zinc fume fever" Symptoms are like a heart attack or crushing bands of pain around the chest, Having experienced it i would suggest avoidance! Antidote is riboflavin found in milk and beer, Our engineers "award" (remeber those?) conditions specified a pint of milk per day to be provided when welding zinc coated steel. Oh how the company cafe ladies(remember those?) loved us for claiming the free milk. I think it meant there were no left overs for them to take home. Beer is also high in Riboflavin though we never did succeed in g