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funlovincriminal

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Posts posted by funlovincriminal

  1. 4 hours ago, CarpeDiem said:

    That's awesome.  She was on our pier at Westhaven, what a spectacular  improvement.

    Took a lot of elbow grease!

    To get rid of the original stripes and signage took ages, 120g and 240g dry sand on orbital, then 400 and 800 wet with a D.A just to get the level down to the eroded surface of the topsides.

    Followed by 1500g wet before machine cut and polish 😅

    • Upvote 1
  2. Now the wobbly bit is back in the hole I guess I'd better seal/chock it.

    What's your preferred method/product?

    Spartite?

    Silicone and wedges? 

    Some other wonder product?

    Should I do it before or after tensioning/bending the rig?

    While I'm at it, what's the best stuff to use to seal on top of the mast dam?

    Cheers

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  3. 5 hours ago, Psyche said:

    MM doing spiderman during qualifyingmarc-1635067537.jpg

    He saved that one but trowled it in final laps of the session. Nothing trickier than a slowly drying track when your searching for those last 100ths of a second!

    If you look at the replay of MM crash you see Jack Miller loses the front in the same spot but saves it on his knee.

  4. Really aiming for simplicity and least modifications to a class boat possible.

    Had a deck mounted one on the 930 and had to remove anchor locker lid to use it whilst cruising but the 1020 split lid makes it a lot more practical. Prod will be removable with a single thumb turn screw at the back then just slips backwards out of the stem ring. While viat out of the water I'm adding a Bob stay tube to the knuckle but a heavy enough section prod can survive without one. (We had 19.7kts in 35kts on the 930 and ran a zero pretty tight with no breakages). However the 1020 is a fair bit heavier!

    I've already modified the stem head fitting to take prod and keep anchor off stem.

    Whilst anchor locker out and new bulkhead being made I'll engineer a bit of compression resistance into the rear end.

    This really is just a cruiser setup! Hate poles and rolls with kids and wives.

     

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    • Like 1
    • Upvote 2
  5. It's for a deck mounted prod, so I could build it up where it slips through the ring. Most likely unstayed so 3.5mm may be a bit on the thin side? Can't recall the thickness of the one on my 930 but it was pretty beefy. What kind of length is it?

  6. 21 hours ago, 44forty said:

    Go on …be the first 1020 with a prod ! 
     

    sorry I don’t have a piece of section though 

    Why would I want a prod on a 1020?

    Gennakers are just so hard to deal with on a family cruiser, there's all that pole carrying and clipping/unclipping, uphauls, downhauls, tweakers, wine glasses, death rolls and Chinese gybes.... oh wait... that's Spinnakers 😅

    • Haha 1
  7. Today 

    Installed sail drive boot, epoxy primed and applied first coat of Antifoul.

    2nd coated internal window trims, installed windows just in time to weatherproof boat for the forecasted rain!

    Windows a hard job solo in a breeze

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    • Upvote 2
  8. Friday afternoon/Saturday ... Painted new charcoal metallic boot top above my laboriously reclaimed white gelcoat factory stripe. Re drilled bolts for rudder top gudgeon, removed, freed up and reinstalled grease gland packers for bearings. Fitted rudder bearing tube and rudder. No play now!

    Installed new prop and prop speeded sail drive and prop. Wife and kids masked and sanded teak interior window trims. 

    I prepped external window surrounds and installed vhb tape, and marked and masked window outlines.

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    • Upvote 1
  9. Was transported a shortish distance from yacht club to my house up a twisty road utilizing a Nissan Navara with a Hydraulic transmission lifter lashed on the tray, Borrowed digger trailer with an engine lifting crane bolted to the back end, motorcycle tie downs, carpet off cuts, a not insignificant amount of overhang, a firm belief in luck and no plausible Level 4 get out of jail story....

    Middle coat is Resene 81a Etch Primer.

    Full System was:

    Linbide/orbital/ Hand Sand old coatings off.

    Detergent/waterblast extrusion. 

    Allow to dry.

    Tramline Sand with 180g paper top to bottom. 

    Air Dust, then clean whole thing with Wax and Grease remover, changing to clean rags regularly.

    Mix 81a and B etch primer and catalyst and allow to stand for 20 mins induction time, meanwhile:

    Apply Hydrafos Acid/Water Mix (2:1) with garden weed sprayer, allow to fizz but not dry out, wipe with clean damp rags then dry with paper towels until they come clean. 

    Wax and Grease remove again, wiping with clean rags as you go (think Mr Miyagi Wax on/off here)

    Spray 1 Wash Coat of etch primer.

    Allow to dry overnight.

    Then apply chosen top coat - in this instance Resene Durepox Black 1st coat thinned 20% followed 10 mins later by the same but with 10% clear added for a bit more sheen and a serviceable finish.

    A LOT of work but considering the worn and beaten to sh*t original Metallic Grey Caprathane that was on it from New I had no real other option but to paint.

    Quietly stoked with how it's come up 😎

     

    • Upvote 2
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