Winter

not charged with failing to stop or similar?

I have one of Matts fancy Anchor lights. It is as good as he says I would not put LED replacement in an existing filament socket - only for the reason that that connection always shits itself - spring contacts, salt air and all that. I've never had them last very long before you need to climb back up and jiggle it to make it go again

I have just had the battery in my GME EPIRB replaced. See here : https://www.gme.net.au/beacon-information.aspx

I saw this today and it Pissed me right off. Steaming north thru tiri Channel. On the radio I hear "unidentified vessel on my port side, this is the new zealand warship. You are steaming into danger. Identify yourself and turn away or i will take action against you" So i call up and say.. do you mean me? Im 1nm away from you thats hardly danger. They do not respond, but repeat their demands. Then they start firing flares in my direction. Again i call them on the radio and ask them to describe the vessel they are talking about. There were 3+ navy vessels and a dozen other boats a

I did not know I was not allowed to use my tiller pilot in the harbour.. Did anyone else know that?

Tonights anchorage... no blue lights, but three boats without any anchorlight.

I am away on the boat for a few weeks, cable is in the storage shed. How much are you after?

Ive got some good 0183 cable. Cant remember if 22 or 24awg. Belden shipboard cable. Got about 1000ft of it so i can probably spare it

I thought the most famous would have been Blade

Yes, I could check that current reading, but I suspect it is correct. At full bulk charge it reads nearly bang on the rated current (39.7A) so I believe the current readout is correct on the charger. Tail current - I've not watched for this - I'll have to sit and watch it next time. Sure - but the voltmeter on the charger display and the voltmeter in the BEP match - so I trust the voltage reading. The Temp sensor is affixed with 3m sticky tape to the battery. The charger gives a readout in degrees C of the battery temp - which goes up and down with the heat of the day - so

1.4a figure read off the charger display. The Charger is currently connected directly to the battery (not via the shunt(I need to add a busbar first)) so the BEP reading is not much use. The BEP reads 0, which would indicate that the 1.4a is not being supplied to a load but rather going into the battery itself.

That 1.4a would probably include the always on loads - one BEP DC monitor and the always on feed to the stereo to remember the stations. Cant see either of those two drawing more than about 0.1A

Have recently added a new 3stage TBB charger(40A) from AA solar. It charges nicely. When it goes to float stage (13.4 +/- a tad for temperature sensor) It still shows a pretty constant 1.4ish amps going in. I had thought the current during float stage would be way down, less than half an amp.. but I dont know. Does approx 1.4A float current sound right? Bank is Flooded, 2x 230ah in parralel. Batterys approx 4 years old. Levels are good, plates are all covered.

Yeah I'm not really that fussed about a counter, I just want to be able to easily up down from both the bow and the helm. Tiller steer boat, so I don't have anywhere easily reachable where I can still stand and see. So the wireless option sounds good to me. Lots of options infront of me now. Might start with the el cheapo remote and see how that goes. Thanks everyone

I have the same question, but for the Zeus2, which doesn't have a sonar port. I already have speed/depth/temp.

I like the idea... can you say how much it cost?

Thanks Island time. those looks cheap enough I will try them out and see how it goes. The lewmar remote is waterproof, and floats. that seems like a good idea. but not a $700 good idea.

My windlass is currently setup with a dinky up down switch feeding the relay. The dinky switch has to go, to be replaced with a pendant.. corded or wireless. Where can I buy a pendant? I see lewmar want around 700 bitcoin for their wireless gizmo. Also, on a charter boat I had recently, their windlass had a soft start/stop thing where it ramped up to operating speed. Seems much nicer. Can that be retrofitted to an exsisting windlass? I have the lewmar pro series 1000.

The cruise ships will already have tugs on hand to park them... so they already have a boat handy to drop someone onto the dolphin 10mins before the ship arrives..

For the vhf, b&g v50. You can get a wireless handset for it which is really usefull, and it has a built in AIS reciever

Thats what I put in. Only been in the water 2 weeks so I can't really comment yet. Looks very nicely built. The guys at Henleys knew their stuff and were very helpful, and I do like the fact I can go in there and ask them if I have any issues..

There will be a nut on the end of the shaft. This nut will be the next size up from any sockets you own. You will then go purchase the larger socket to find you also need the larger ratchet to put it on. After going back to get the larger ratchet you will still not get it undone as it will be tighter than anything you have seen before. If you do get it off, it may take a lot more force than a hammer to get the whole thing off the tapered shaft.. mine took a hydraulic jack and a little jig to get it off.. Good luck i just did mine

This interests me, because id like to try the triton pilot but on a tiller steer boat there are not many options. Sd10 but thats about $1000 too much. So maybe the b&g pilot and a cheaper drive like this? Plus a rfu and precision9 compass?

Why do you say that? I think salt water cooled is a very good thing, the systems are usually 10x quieter without the fan of an aircooled system?

Or does it have to do with the direction of rotation of your engine? One side an upward force the other a downward?