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BMW56

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Posts posted by BMW56

    The Ultimate Dinghy Painter

    in MarineTalk

    Posted

    Thanks KM. That's good advice. I chose the polypropylene on the basis if it being lightweight, and therefore not too much of a sea anchor with the longer length, and also moderately stretchy. There always seem to be pros and cons. I used to tow my old dinghy on a much shorter painter, and it danced around a lot more than the new one does. I have actually used two stainless rings together to spread the load over a greater surface area. Seems to work fine though it took some experimenting to find the right length for the bridle. I started off a bit too long and the rings didn't slide easily, but it finds it's sweet spot quite happily now. At this time of year the rope doesn't get a chance to dry, but good advice to give it an occasional dip on a hot summer day if it's been towing above the water. I'll certainly be keeping an eye out for wear. I suspect my insurance company wouldn't be too keen on another claim for a lost dinghy!

    The Ultimate Dinghy Painter

    in MarineTalk

    Posted

    I had the recent experience of losing my dinghy, not because the painter gave way, but because the D-ring pulled off the front of the dinghy. One new dinghy later I have been experimenting with painters and towing bridles.

     

    I was surprised how much better the dinghy tows using a bridle attached to the tow points on either side, as compared to a single point on the bow. A long tow line helps too.. The bridle clips on with snap shackles and is only put on for towing. The tow line is 10m of 12mm polypropylene braid with the bridle permanently attached via a stainless ring that can slide along, allowing for an even tow despite wind, currents, etc. This setup stays on the yacht, so doesn't get in the way when commuting back and forth to the mooring. Two minutes to clip on before we leave. The painter is a much shorter 10mm braid and is only used for tying up. It stays attached to the dinghy all the time and is short enough not to get in the way when handling the dinghy.

     

    So in my case i have decided on separate solutions for each purpose, rather than make one piece of string do both. Seems to be working very well so far and has managed to stay clear of the prop.

    Insurers, the good, the bad & the ugly?

    in MarineTalk

    Posted

    I'm with Youi. They were happy to insure on a swing mooring so long as the required inspections are kept up to date. Survey not required even though I had one. Policy looks reasonable and not much different to others I looked at. Price was very competitive a year ago. Haven't had to make a claim, so no experience there. Only downside is the salespeople are quite pushy - will try to insure your house, car, life & wife all on the same phone call. Just say no thanks unless you are interested.

    • Upvote 1

    Article about early Whaling

    in MarineTalk

    Posted

    Another good book is South Sea Vagabonds by J W Wray. It's something of a classic that was written 75years ago and has recently been republished. It's about a guy who built a boat, Ngataki, out of driftwood during the depression years and his subsequent adventures. Not about whaling but a great example of the true Kiwi spirit and ingenuity.

    Dinghy woes

    in MarineTalk

    Posted

    Having trouble with the quoting there. Seems not to work as expected on my iPad, so must be doing something wrong.

     

     

    Most dinghies I know that flip ( in the wind) go over backwards, especially with an outboard on.

     

    (Not sure that the quoting has worked right here. iPmajd doing funny things.)

     

    It certainly did lift at the front first, then flipped sideways. I think I'll need to experiment with tying on differently as the rear bollards on the boat are quite high. The painter was fairly short, which may not have helped. I'm pretty sure the Force 4 wouldn't have turned over in the same wind, but there are quite a few differences to consider: larger dinghy, heavier outboard, different attachment point, shorter painter. Hopefully not too many failed experiments.

     

    With regard to the replacement dinghy, it seems that some people prefer a rigid hull. I think this might be difficult for transportation, but wonder how others manage? Currently the roll-up goes in the back of the Terrano nicely.

    Dinghy woes

    in MarineTalk

    Posted

    Two weekends ago I went to do some work on the boat. I tied my Force 4 inflatable up to the stern bollard as usual and went down below to get on with the jobs. The wind came up a bit but I thought nothing of it at the time, until it was time to go home. No dinghy! Just the painter and D-ring. The webbing attachment, which showed no obvious wear or tear, must have given way. Dinghy with outboard still missing somewhere in Lytteton Harbour if anyone finds it. Luckily warm enough for a swim to shore.

     

    Last weekend I went out in my other inflatable - older and a bit leaky, and with my larger outboard on the back. Tied up as usual and all seemed good. Then the damn wind came up again. Picked up the dinghy and flipped it over. The outboard got a dunking though fortunately seems to have survived after some care and attention. Fortunately I took the oars so was able to row back to shore, but it was a hell of a job righting the dinghy first.

     

    So it looks like I need to buy a new dinghy. I'd prefer another inflatable simply for ease of transport, but I really don't want a repeat of the last two episodes. I need something suitable to tow behind the boat when sailing as there is no space to store on deck. Any suggestions of what to look for, and of experiences with stopping dinghy from flipping when the wind gets up?

    22mm or 7/8th inch stainless tube for Bimimi

    in TechTalk

    Posted

    Try Steel & Tube Stainless.  They will sell direct and are happy to sell part lengths.  Not sure where in the country you are, but they have branches in the main centers.

     

    They will have various types and finishes.  For marine you probably should be asking for T316 round structural tube (sometimes also called 'handrail tube').  Standard wall thicknesses are 1.2mm & 1.5mm.  Ask what finishes they have - you want a polished finish rather than linished, which will stain in salt air.  You can also get hygienic grade seamless tube if you want to pay a little more, but it's probably overkill.

    Negotiating final purchase price

    in MarineTalk

    Posted

    It's like buying a used car or a house. There will always be something that needs attention, or that you would prefer to be different. My advice would be to buy it as you see it, so long as the work needed is only minor, for a price you are happy to pay and the vendor is happy to accept. If the vendor is happy to fix things to secure the sale, all well and good, but there shouldn't be an obligation to make the boat perfect. Otherwise, if you choose to look after the work yourself, just like the all the ongoing repairs and maintenance you will need to do for so long as you own the boat, you can decide the priority and standard of the work as you see fit and can afford. Any outstanding work that was not immediately obvious might be helpful for negotiating the final price, but otherwise 'what you see is what you get'.

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