marinheiro
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Posts posted by marinheiro
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On 17/08/2021 at 11:22 AM, strath said:
I want to replace my existing winch with a two way rope to chain gypsy, 8mm Din 776 chain
I have a Maxwell Nilsson wench, one direction, rope drum and chain gypsy, which is probably as old as the boat 1987 a Farr 1020. The winch stopped working a couple of years back and I rang Nilsson's who sugested taking the winch off to them for repair. The problem was I could get the rope drum off, but not the gypsy. The gypsy does not appear have a key and has two grub screws which screw onto the shaft which I could not get out. I finish up just taking the outer case off the motor and taking it to them and they put in new brushes which fixed the problem.
Now that I want to replace the winch, I am faced again with getting the chain gypsy off so I can remove the winch from the boat to fit a new winch.
Any help and ideas ????
if you are junking the existing winch, don't mess around - cutoff wheel in a disc grinder to cut the gypsy off (it will be a copper/bronze casting so relatively soft), with protection on the surrounding deck and adjacent pulpit (some wet towels on top of hardboard or similar)
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48 minutes ago, Zozza said:
I will start it off.....
Robin Knox Johnston - Running Free
After winning the original RTR RKJ received the prize of GBP5,000.When the sad story of Donald Crowhurst and his suicide was revealed, he immediately donated the entire winnings to a fund set up for Crowhurst's family. That showed his good character!
By the way his "big" yacht (he still has Suihali) is a Farr 56, shows good taste in choice of designer 👍
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gave my Nilsson V3000 its annual clean and grease on the weekend. It is around 35 years old and still going strong! Had a reversing motor fitted by Grant N a few years ago. All bronze castings and a 38mm (1 1/2") shaft. Not like the toys fitted on the modern boats
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as I recall you have the spinnaker in a sock, so I take the counter view for short handed cruising it is easier to work from the mast, just have a block at the base of the mast that can swivel forward so you can run the halyard thru one hand and gather the sock'd spinnaker with the other
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1 hour ago, aardvarkash10 said:
Whats the approved method?
I'm thinking drill the mast, fit the appropriate rivnuts, fix to the rivnuts using 316 hardware.
Stainless or ali rivnuts? Wide flange, or standard? Blind, or through-threaded?
Or am I doing this wrong?
better to drill and tap for the appropriate size machine screw.
Apply an anti seize coating to the screws - Tefgel is the best stuff
Isolate the fitting from the mast - cut a piece of plastic to size from the top of an ice cream container and place between mast and fitting
done!
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If you want to see some Big waves and a bit of the physics behind them have a look at this BBC series (6 episodes)
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9 minutes ago, Fish said:
Or maybe the back, which ever way you look at it.
I honestly think they make these ships out of cardboard derivatives. Apparently it has been drifting out of the environment.
Cargo ship splits in two in Japan, oil spilling into the sea | Stuff.co.nz
Happens more often than it should, usually due to corrosion of the structure in older vessels
and it has been subject to discussion before by our very own John Clark - talking about the Kirki off WA in the 90's
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Lamborghini's Riva - a really cool combination (was discussing this with an Italian colleague)
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45 minutes ago, waikiore said:
I know of a few who have been told that they have to have it, followed by a ginormous bill for running a couple of lines on boats from the late eighties that actually did not have issues prior and now have more joints/connections . wtf
it is the same as the b.s that goes on with EWOF's for older boats.
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11 hours ago, ex Elly said:
Insurance company wants to see a Gas Code of Compliance Certificate .
Any recommendations for who I can get to do this?
Boat is in Half Moon Bay...
If your boat was built 2013 of later it should have come with one.
For Pre 2013 boats the only time there is a certificate issued is if a gas fitter works on it. If you want to get them off your back you can get a gas fitter to make a leak test, also a good idea to change any hoses if they are more than 10 yrs old. He would issue a certificate to say the work he has done is in compliance.
These guys are out your way, https://www.marinesafegas.co.nz/. Have zero experience with them. If you were to approach them, or any other gas fitter, and your boat is older than 2013 you want to have a conversation along the lines of "I would like a gas inspection of my pre 2013 boat. I am aware that AS/NZS 5601 2013 is not retrospective per clause 1.5, so I do not want to be told the whole system has to be replaced to comply with said standard"
See how you go
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On 7/08/2021 at 8:38 AM, mcp said:
Very nice, there are some cold stoney beaches in my future as well I hope.
What sort of Dingy is that and what have you used for fendering off the mothership?
As mentioned previously Pete's dinghy is a 12' Fyran. Received this reply from him to your fender question:
"Have they not got anything more Important to do down there" 😁
"The fender I made myself, split tube of the right diameter to wrap right around and under. Alloy rivetted around inside edge, still going strong after 20 odd years now. The bumper is from the UK, Simpson and Lawrence I seem to recall."
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2 hours ago, Fogg said:
Thanks. Do you know if that makes mine any better or still equally susceptible?
As usual, other people know more tech info about my boat than I do…
you need to look around where the 2 arrows are, especially on the underside, sorry cannot find a rear view of the engine.
at the front look between the alternator and the hoses above it.
even if you do not see any salt leakage, I would suggest if the engine is more than 5 yrs old as preventive maintenance, you should be taking the end caps off, checking the seals and sealing surfaces and getting the heat exchanger tube bundle cleaned, the last especially seeing as your yacht has come from a warm water environment.
If you have any doubts I am sure IT would check it out for you 😄
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1 hour ago, mcp said:
It will be my car once the sebatical from land starts, so all of the above except not a lot of marina. I also want to spend time in higher latitudes and more remote areas, so it must be robust.
Sharp objects was a big factor in why I started looking at a hard aluminuim dinghy, coral, oysters, rocks, seals, old wharfs, if I go to australia....things with teeth.
I don't think I have made my mind up completely, but I am still weighing heavily on the Ally Dink idea. Stability is the biggest con I think I have with this type of dinghy, as getting in and out does not look as straight forward, and infact I have never tried it on any thing but an inflatable. I guess you get a ladder of something for the stern or bow?
Just FYI, this is what a Naiad looks like sans tubes
You could keep an eye on Trademe for a 10 or 12' Fyran and buy one to see if ally works for you.
Other options not previously mentioned here, but starting to have weight issues, are
Mac Boat in Polyethylene: https://macboats.co.nz/mac-270-dinghy/
or an Aluminium pontoon dinghy, nothing under 3.4m in NZ, but found this in Australia eg http://www.oceancraft.com.au/2900pkg1.htm
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14 hours ago, Vivaldi said:
On Vivaldi there is a hose fitting on the suction side just after the sea cock for the salt water inlet. We can shut off the salt water side and run fresh through it which is pretty handy for the occasional rinse out.
That's exactly what James Mobberly recommends, he also suggests using one of the salt removal products, eg Saltaway. Said he was not so keen on Barnacle Buster, has found it is too aggressive and has caused problems with seals, gaskets etc.
He did highlight you need to be using some sort of container to hold the fresh water and let the salt water pump suck it into the engine via a hose to the Tee you mention. Some people have plumbed up direct fresh water hose connections to the downstream side of the salt water pump and this has resulted in flooded engines
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45 minutes ago, mcp said:
Very nice, there are some cold stoney beaches in my future as well I hope.
What sort of Dingy is that and what have you used for fendering off the mothership?
That is Peter Smith's Kiwi Roa in the background and the dinghy is a 12' Fyran he purchased before leaving NZ in 2008 (Priscilla is not Pete). Next time I talk to Pete I will ask where he got the fendering
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5 hours ago, Island Time said:
Because it's a heat exchanger, one side is fresh, one side is salt (raw) to allow the heat exchange.
This issue is common on these engines and the D series Volvo Pentas.
The manufacturers say this is why they are insistent on the right coolant in the fresh water side, and that it is changed at the correct interval. It's also important to ensure that the models with electrically isolated sail drives are, in fact, still electrically isolated! There is a plastic gasket, and plastic inserts/washers on the saildrive mounting bolts for this reason.
Beta and Nanni and just about everyone else use the same concept
Beta:
Nanni
notable that they both use 3 bolt end caps compared to the Yanmar's 2 bolt. Maybe they figured out these are a problem.
The guys at Moons said they believe all the European assembled marine engines source their Heat Exchanger/Exhaust manifolds from an Italian OEM supplier, Mota.
Fogg's turbo Yanmar is different, those are assembled in Japan c.f mine which came out of Yanmar's Netherlands factory.
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1 hour ago, Fogg said:
How old and how many hours?
The engine is 16 yrs old, but has only been in service 6 yrs, 1000hrs. The more i look at this the more I am convinced this was a manufacturing/assembly defect. When the weld repair is machined they will ensure all parts mate perfectly.
If you have a Yanmar, have a good look around those end caps - noting the turbo versions have a quite different heat exchanger
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Posting this to maybe help others avoid this problem on the Yanmars and other engines with aluminium body heat exchanger/exhaust manifolds. This is my Yanmar 4JH4E
A few months ago I noticed salt crystals forming around the forward HEX end cap
and
and when pulled apart this was the situation
and yet the rear one is just about in perfect condition
What is noticeable is that the corrosion is on the part of the face between the clamping bolts. Will need to check if the face of the cover plate is dead flat. Hoping that Rocke can work his welding magic on this, otherwise it will be new one from USA -already priced it up.
James Mobberley at Moon Engines recommends setting up a fresh water flush for these engines, a tee and a valve on the salt water intake. Had a look at a friend's 75hp Yanmar, and we could see signs of salt crystals, then he mentioned that his alternator had been damaged by salt water.
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On 1/08/2021 at 10:33 AM, mcp said:
I will be getting a new dinghy set up in the near future, and I am currently thinking of a 3 metre-ish hard alloy dinghy with a 10hp motor, a foam collar to stop it from damaging the mothership when it hits it a hundred times or more per day, but no one seems to have this type of dinghy? I like the idea of no tubes to puncture, likely to be quite fast with a small motor (?), easy to row, lightweight.
I'm not 100% sold on this setup yet...
What are the pros and cons of the different dinghy types you have owned? Also, how often in practice have the Pros and the Cons been of use or an actual hindrance? What are the possible workarounds if you don't have one of these Pros and Cons?so with all of the combined "expertise " here, have you been able to narrow down your choice?
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2 hours ago, CarpeDiem said:
Yep - he anchors it there permanently on 100m of chain - at least he did
- he used to move it before a big storm came to a rent-a-mooring or take it somewhere safe for a couple of days.
It's just outside harbour limits so anchoring is allowed.
Archangel often takes up "residence" off Buckleton's Beach in the summer
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39 minutes ago, Fogg said:
I think these are still his details but disclaimer: I haven’t contacted him for a few years so if these turn out to be incorrect don’t blame me!
Name (I think): “York”
104 Roberts Road
Te Atatu
Auckland09 835 2128
027 231 6288that's correct, his workshop looks like a classic electronics geek's hideout
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There's a Chinese guy in Te Atatu who is quite good at fixing that sort of gear, http://www.efrontier.co.nz/estore/index.php?currency=NZD
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32 minutes ago, Fogg said:
On the wet bum thing my previous dinghy (which I sold to Booboo) had chaps / covers which were great. I don’t know what material but they seemed to dry out v fast after getting wet and were far more comfy than sitting on bare tubes.
Who makes similar in NZ?
looks like Sunbrella. any of the cover guys eg Bill B could make one
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10 hours ago, Priscilla II said:
yes, Pete has always preferred ally dinghies. I went for a row in that dinghy when he first bought it and found the rowlocks were in the wrong place - too close to the seat. The Young 2.8 has the same error in its design
Lockdown sailing deja-vu
in MarineTalk
Posted
in the case of Swan, she is moored on her berth at Sandspit and her owner is at his principal residence in the Sth Is. You will also see Marmax, Peregrine and Stella Maris appearing from time to time on Marine Traffic - they are all on their berths at Sandspit
The only boats that might be in breach are those at the bottom end of Waiheke & Gt Barrier