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idlerboat

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Everything posted by idlerboat

  1. idlerboat

    Bonding

    🙂.. that would be nice...in older timber "wet bilge " boats it's almost impossible to keep lower fittings electrically isolated. It is possible to design a new boat with a limited amount of through hulls. Not so easy to retrofit an older boat. My 38 foot yacht has no seacocks . The diesel engine is unmarinised and does not use plumbed raw water cooling ( direct or heat exchanger) . I would suggest that at the least , tapered emergency bungs of the right size should be kept with any older seacocks, as they tend to break off where the threads are between the through hull and seacocks
  2. idlerboat

    Bonding

    So ? Are you telling me that cheap fittings have not been put on boats ? In my world, the assumption is that all bronze through hulls without a known history are suspect. It's not worth the risk. Also given that, why replace them with anything metal ?
  3. idlerboat

    Bonding

    You mean like ALL bronze fittings ?😅
  4. idlerboat

    Bonding

    MH I totally agree with that article. It confirms what l have said. It's not new. Changing the skin fittings to corrosion resistant ones is the best option.. But l am talking about the great many vessels that have bronze through hulls. Ask yourself what causes de zincing ? ...and apart from changing the fittings what reduces this from happening.
  5. Re mh. 1. Hmm maybe.. but hey it's the US.. so as l said.. the vessel would be going back to the US. 2. What l said.and it does. 3. Yep . Don't change what l said. So.. again. International registration effects the country of final berth. Sure you can buy a vessel OS and register in its final country of berth... But as l said....if you don't you Will have to pay dues... I don't understand why that is being complicated or suggesting otherwise....
  6. idlerboat

    Bonding

    Total electrical isolation is very difficult. It becomes harder as the vessel becomes older ( regardless of what material it is made of) . Complete electrical isolation of the motor to hull is also difficult even if you have polymer engine mounts and prop couplings. Bonding of metal through hull fittings of all types and uses on plastic, timber and Ferro boats will save a lot of grief ..... ( Unless you are not going to keep the boat and pass it on to someone else who will then ask me and l will tell them to replace all the pink ...bronze hull fittings..which they will then break off when
  7. idlerboat

    Bonding

    "Would not worry about bronze skin fittings and valves as these are not in the circuit." 🙂 I would. ....and they are. Particularly on a timber vessel. They are highly prone to becoming brittle , and to be blunt...snapping clean off. They also inhance local timber "electrolysis" ..but better you do some more research.. ( off line..).
  8. Having your boat registered in a country is mandatory if you wish to travel between countries. This is not local registration or state registrations. Be very careful about some advice... Having a vessel registered in a country other than the country that you wish it to reside in can make you liable for GST/VAT/or other import duties. 10 % of the value of the vessel (the value is not up to you to decide) can be a lot more than registration. The registration papers will be required by most countries on first presenting to boarder control/customs. The paper work and initial contact is ofte
  9. Eruptn.. yep. For my home system the arays are fixed with a very basic summer/winter position. I can build trackers but can't be bothered with the extra moving parts . ( Or replacing linear actuators) Panel output 😄.. I think l have heard as many tall stories as people's boat speed .. So for those new to the subject. Panel ratings are based on a mythical place that is in perfect clear skies , at the equator with the sun in its zenith..and no heat.. It's not cheating , it's just an industry standard You may get half of that if you are lucky. ...and then obviousl
  10. The ones I'm talking about are 1500 watts, but there are 1000 watt versios. They have a hinged swing tail that has a spring . When the wind gets past a set strength the tail swings due to a "rudder surface' this in turn rotates the turbine sideways to the wind. Normal magnetic braking and/or power dump systems are also used.
  11. Trackers are very easy to build. In essence two micro PV cells with a little shade wall between. A circuit compares the voltage between them and moves the panel till the voltage is equal . The circuit also does a " go home" operation after a pre set amount of time after no voltage. This then drives a relay to a linear actuator A no power setup using heat expansion and a "hydraulic liquid" based on the shade no shade principal has been done many times. If your arrays are on the same axis then one master controller is enough to control them all.
  12. If you want a really good one for land based generation ...see if you can find an older ( pre Chinese manufacture ) Bergy brand unit. Made in the USA. These are of a size suitable for serious home power. You will need to get it up on a tower to make it worthwhile. A guyed tilt tower is the easiest to make and maintain . You can get 30 metres in height without to much trouble with a 50 plus kg turbine on top. As for only hours of storage ? None that l know of or built !! 5 to 10 days usually...
  13. Climate change. Look at the energy efficiency of phones in comparison to small stand alone GPS units, chalk and cheese. I need to be contactable 24/7/366 and as we rely purely on renewables, with the irregularities they come with, every amp counts. Wow... maybe you need to go into a methane powered generator.........
  14. Why wouldn't you just use your phone ? !! If it is a newer version it will be running up to 4 different countries satellite navigation systems. ( GPS is the American one ) For land based stuff the not so humble phone is way more powerful than any stand alone GPS. ...and all the maps ( they're not charts) are free , (And no.. you don't need to be in range of a tower)
  15. 🙂 some shafts inboard are tapered some are threaded ( " inside") the flange and lots are just straight. Any of the above may have some kind of grub screw as a safety as well. These can obvious or flush and hidden under paint, rust or grease The Flexi type couplings have captured nuts. Often they have been loc tite which is an absolute no no. They can then be impossible to remove because they strip their captured surface . If so you then cut them off and get a new coupling. ( Use a torque wrench only to do them up) . Don't load up the output shaft of your gearbox when dealing wit
  16. Do you need flat ? lots or little ? ( shipping containers are cor 10) I dont have a price but know that it has come down in price because people are laser cutting it and making all sorts of outdoor stuff with the "rusty look".
  17. For two years, regardless of the brand ( but Altex no5 is good) At least two coats on all surfaces with one / two more on all leading and trailing areas. Fair out "missing, old antifoul" either wet and dry to a gentle fair or Prime and fill with an easily sanded fairing compound. (Dont use an epoxy filler in this case). Build thickness is just that... coarse rollers will put a lot on...but there is not a lot of point if there is large "valleys and peaks". Better to put three light coats on with an even build. Use an extension handle on your roller and get into a rhythm. Thi
  18. Sorry, I should have been a bit more complete in my description. Completely home made except for the sewing. The pieces are two mirror image sides, and top cover flaps.The material is a "sunbrella" type cloth. The edges are folded and seamed and then backed up with seat belt webbing. Along the bottom is a series of eyelets. These eyelets allow short lengths of cord to attach the sides to sail slugs in the boom top groove. This works with both a slugged or loose footed main, but obviously not with a bolt roped main. (This last usually requires some kind of extra hardware to be riveted onto the
  19. Yep...stackpac and Lazy jacks. (regardless of your batten choice) Makes life so much easier. Full cars will allow you to drop the main even with the wind on...but they are very expensive.. A two piece stackpac with solid fiberglass rods that connect to your lazy jacks is great for cruising. You can let the stackpac sides drop below the boom and pull the lazy jacks forward to the mast and tie them there. I cut the pieces out for mine and supplied them and a roll of 50 mm seatbelt webbing to the local horse blanket and tarp maker to stitch it up. Fantastic and cheap end product.
  20. (now) IG.. "Coal is everywhere." quote... so ? Venereal disease is too..... dont mean its a good idea. So for the millionth time... coal is a finite resource... (that means it will run out) ...and its not a good idea to burn it...(see another post somewhere) .....and there are some newer clever ways to produce hydrogen... .. ......and for the billionth time.... yes making solar panels requires a percentage environmental cost....( just like you and me) BUT its total "cost" over its life time is far less than burning coal in a power station .. ...and
  21. The canvass and rubber "flat" fire hose makes excellent super anti chafe tubes.
  22. The TV thing first, if the signal is reasonable in the area you are in... Believe it or not but a set of $5 rabbits ears, attached to the shrouds with a plastic clamp works way better than all the omni directional units I have ever tried !! ...and no, they are not at the top of the mast...just as high as I can reach from the deck. I still use them (they do rust out ) and in my current marina I get 64 channels. When I travel , after docking I get them out and just point them in the same direction as the local roof top antennae are pointing. Press search on the TV and... usually bingo. I
  23. Yep...hydrogen is what will happen. And l agree with wheels that on a small scale it will probably be with a fuel cell. This is not far away now. It is being looked at on a very large scale also...and sadly.." the clever bastards " are pushing it here but not being blatantly up front and saying they want to use coal to make it.. Which is pointless expensive and a missed opportunity.
  24. Epever has free software for a lot of their chargers. Its a bit ugly but works fine. (just sort out your port designations) The lead is a usb to RS485 lead. Their part number is CC USB RS485 150U. The software has a user programmable section where you can set pretty much whatever you want. (but there is a set of rules as to the voltage sets) As mentioned before, look at your batteries spec sheets for the correct voltages. You can also get a unit from snektek for epever (and other chargers) It will be something like this... Constant voltage charge. Cycle use 2.4 - 2.45 volts, Stand by
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