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Island Time

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Everything posted by Island Time

  1. CD for me, the Electrical inspector I use says the 2014 version is the current one. The NZ Govt Website says it is the current one. I linked to the Govt website that shows this. Here is the screenshot. It shows the 2008 standard as superseded. That is sufficient for me. If you wish to disagree, you of course are free to do so. Potentially, IMO, you could have to do so in court. The "connectable installation" section is not present in this version. So ALL boats must comply, except as excluded (small boats with only Alts/Magneto's and lights, no real electrical systems) Agai
  2. Nope, Sorry. The Link i provided gives the current legal citings buy the courts making the version I linked to the current legal rules. I agree that the "standards" or not law until they are citied by the courts. That's why the link also states that this is the "Current" legal version. If you wish to try to prove this in the courts, feel free. Even if you could prove it's the older version, the new one, I understand, is only months away (2020 version I believe, currently still under review), and they there are more restrictions coming. I would point out though, that the standards ARE NOT
  3. Unfortunately, that is NOT the current standard. See here https://www.standards.govt.nz/search/doSearch?Search=3004 and you can see the 2014 version is the current one, and if you click on the "Cited" bit, you get a list of court citings. And this one has modified that clause to say "1 This Standard is not intended to apply to small boats equipped with a battery supplying circuits for engine starting and navigation lighting only that is recharged from an inboard or outboard engine driven alternator." So the "connectable" clause has gone...
  4. The Standard I'm using is AS/NZS 3004.2:2014 Electrical installations„Marinas and boats My understanding from the local electrical inspector is that this version has been sighted by the court, which makes it law. It is also the one on the official website: https://www.ewrb.govt.nz/for-registered-electrical-workers/your-licence/access-nz-standards-for-all-electrical-installations-and-appliances/ The 2018 version has not been sighted, and likely will not be, as it had too many issues and the replacement is, I understand, not too far away. There is nothing in the reg that says a b
  5. new restrictions today, as the old notices expire...https://www.mpi.govt.nz/biosecurity/exotic-pests-and-diseases-in-new-zealand/pests-and-diseases-under-response/exotic-caulerpa-seaweeds-caulerpa-brachypus-and-caulerpa-parvifolia-in-new-zealand/#maps-upper-north-island
  6. I know there are some who wish to build their own battery banks. That's fine, but consideration should be given to the NZ electrical regs. Lithium - LiFePo4 (really the bets for marine, and very safe) MUST have audio and visual alarms fitted to warn of an impending disconnect, BEFORE it happens (for whatever reason). This is the stumbling block for most "drop in" solutions. Multiple chemistry battery banks and not acceptable under the standards. That does NOT mean you can't have LiFePo4 house batts and Lead Acid start batts. Be aware that a DIY (or any) install that does not meet the
  7. Bit heavier than the Farr, but around 8 metric tons. + Gear. But it will be under 10...
  8. These work https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/354629847396?hash=item5291960964:g:1PkAAOSw9CRkBZCP&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA0InB%2FyvVUdyw5%2FE6C%2BfB6LV%2BiyLTdfoiXU3uX7QjDAcgxS5PM9CGXmq%2BnbGjQFNn%2FSxTlhbYHq8ZA8mES%2FdJcA1CuIMdVcCpfJYBLE%2BmDuTT6YBafQpeFfIG6aLL2MXtXXRAtW3ieqb1qo93Y9VdavFx3bVI8UluQPtmXIcFK5hg30JGFInPk54IUFfaIgwqxoJi6OpAZhQN28X8EeZIsCgE0qrXffl15XRWD3mcI%2FhWMPuSEvqOncul3q2noiKw8b8t7xDbPHI6VTVDB36WxvU%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR86mpaz9Yg and cheap!
  9. The NZ Coastguard tickets are NZ only, virtually no recognition anywhere except here. The RYA tickets are widely accepted - and are what the NZ coastguard issues now. Some RYA tickets can have STCW endorsements for commercial use. ICC is not a hard test... RYA tickets are much more complex... NZ Coastguard now do both; https://www.boatingeducation.org.nz/courses/42/international-certificate-of-competence-icc/ I suggest you call them, tell them what you have and see what (if anything) they will cross credit.
  10. No. Nowhere near RYA yachtmaster coastal. Sorry.
  11. Yes. Everything from cockpit...
  12. Well, Building on this, I've just finished the decks and structure - now the whole boat has been painted (outside) bottom of keel to top of mast. Again roll and tip, then Kiwigrip over the molded glass non skid. Took off "most" of the deck gear to do it... New Teak timber work as well, some not re-installed yet.
  13. Oxalic acid. Buy it in powder form at Bunnings as concrete or brick cleaner. One tablespoon for a litre of water.
  14. Most waterline stain removers are oxalic acid... which you can buy from bunnings...
  15. What's the replacement going to be Andrew?
  16. Seems the boat is a Senior, called Second Life. Sad day. Rig was intact before going alongside cruise ship. Possibly a medical event 1st....
  17. Broken rig and one dead. Wonder what happened.
  18. What is the solar controller? Do NOT allow the batteries to get over 14.7v or so! It will kill them. Get a PDS for the batteries, and set the charge sources to suit the batteries. No Vehicle I've ever seen has batteries designed for 17v...
  19. Well, there is a HP flush antenna, but it's a bit spendy. The Standard dish is a bit deep, but if you had space I guess you could flush mount it, or be prepared to cut the antenna back off...
  20. 30 HP was common for these. Lots of 40 ftrs had 30's - incl many of the farr 1220's. Island Time had the Volvo 2003, 28hp when I bought her. One day in Wellington in 45 knots I could not get into my berth directly to weather. Cruising speed was about 6 knots. The Whiting 40 would be about the same weight and performance. Once I upgraded to the 2003T (Turbo version, 43 HP) cruising speed 6.5 - 7, approx. 8 at WOT. Best economic speed was about 4.9 knots at 0.75ltrs/hour. Now a VPD2 40hp 4 cyl. More torque and better performance, Cruise at about 7knots, and no problem pushing into a
  21. Pretty big list. Download it from ynz and you'll see. However contrary to what others on here may say, there is little in the list that I wouldn't have. A few things that come to mind as well as your list are: A decent autopilot capable of steering in virtually any conditions Liferaft, medical kit (several thousand), offshore comms (sat ph, SSB, Starlink, whatever you decide, still a few thou more), steering cables, thorough rudder inspection, tools spares, courses (sea survival, medical etc). It can/will cost 10s of thousands to get a boat and crew ready.
  22. Which one are you looking at? Several have done quite a few offshore miles, and generally a good boat. However, check the keel bolts and joint very carefully. IIRC they have only a single row of bolts. One of these went missing without trace some years ago, and I always wondered if it was a keel problem. I'm not saying they are not good boats, but I'd be doing a very careful appraisal of the hull to keel attachments. If the boat has not been Cat 1 recently, it could cost you a lot to get cat 1....
  23. I've disabled the motors. Dish always points up. Worked fine on the wind in 15-20 knots across from waiheke to GH yesterday. This version will disconnect at about 10 knots, seemed fine and good speed at 8 knots...
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