Island Time

It is a requirement of 150n inflatables to keep the wearers head above water. Not to do so means the jacket does not meet the NZ standards. Type 401 is the standard.

Nonsense. Type 401 - inflatable Achieves buoyancy by either a: water-activated switch manual pull cord May include a mouthpiece Designed to keep the wearer vertical during unconsciousness Comfortable and convenient to wear at all times Must provide 150 newtons of buoyancy Guidelines for inflatable lifejackets Download nationally agreed guidelines to help choose the right inflatable lifejacket, and know how and when to service it.

Untrue. Automatic ones certainly do this, and are required to to meet the safety standards. In fact the manual ones do too, but obviously need manual triggering.

This is a basic electrical question. The breaker is there to protect the CABLE not the load (winch). Cable sizing is done by a Load (amps), Volts, and distance (including return - it's a circuit, remember!). Normal allowable volt drop over the cable is 3% for essential circuits, 5% is ok for a winch. There are several good cable size calculators available online - like this https://www.fabhabs.com/dc-cable-sizing-calculator If the system works now, and the spec of the winch motor is not available, does the cable get warm when the winch is operated under load? If not, the cable is ade

IMO this was bound to happen eventually. Interesting inside info here https://www.stuff.co.nz/sport/opinion/128263816/history-shows-that-taking-the-americas-cup-to-spain-is-the-right-call

https://www.gns.cri.nz/Home/Learning/Science-Topics/Volcanoes/New-Zealand-Volcanoes/Auckland-Volcanic-Field

Send the pics to the harbormasters...

Fishing Charter Vessel Enchanter. Thoughts are with the families😢

Lots of new boats are electric only. Vessels that draw 20-50a all the time are not uncommon any more. Gensets and huge solar arrays are how it’s done mostly. 1 or 2 thousand watts of solar is becoming common on some of the large offshore cruisers. All the comforts of home…. At a cost!

Lucky to get away with that! There have been lots of Lead Acid Battery fires, caused by internal and external shorts, poor/old/damaged cables and terminals, and other stuff. A battery is a fuel tank, no fuel tank is 100 % safe.

Happy Birthday! My turn for 60 in 4 months....

Hah! I resemble that remark! Amazing how quickly the years pile on....

But the point is Wheels, NONE of those batts were LifePo4.

While that is true Wheels, anything with energy can be dangerous. LifePo4 is the safest lithium tech, with lower power density than some, and fairly high temps required for thermal runaway. Statistics are starting to show its less dangerous than AGM from what I've read so far...

OK, looks like a grubscrew or friction pin in the bronze gear. Unscrew it or punch it out. Looks like you've taken the bolt out of the clamp? Try to spread the to of the clamp sufficiently to be larger than the surrounding lip. Look in the hole at the top of the shaft in the alloy casting - that can have a grub screw as well, locating into a groove in the shaft. Seized how - can't rotate, or cant withdraw shaft?

Great Post CD, totally agree. LifePo4 is not a problem if correctly installed, incl fuses. Personally I'd be very wary of any other Lithium Chemistry in a boat.

I just thought, in view of potentially a fire being started by a direct short to a lithium bank, I should post something about AIC -Amperage Interrupt Current - of a fuse, esp a battery fuse. Yes, you should have a battery fuse on all your batts! If you have changed to lifepo4, or are thinking of it, and have battery fuses, they may not be suitable for fusing this type of bank. ANL fuses, are not normally rated to a high enough AIC for lithium batts, but are good for lead Acid. So, what is AIC? AIC is the amount of current that the fuse can interrupt - more than the AIC can set up an

If it's LifePo4, it is extremely unlikely to be the batteries themselves, but, if unfused (or fused with wrong spec fuses) a direct short can be 1000's of amps, and the cables can catch fire. Poorly spec'd fuses wont break the connection, and, without a break, can be pretty hard to stop!

https://www.nzherald.co.nz/nz/fire-at-pine-harbour-marina-beachlands-motor-yacht-destroyed-five-others-damaged/67XLAWYRPQM2MLKS6VOAWPYOAM/

Trash the update file and download again...also make certain the Zeus 2 is up to date 1st.

2 terminators, right? One on each end of the bus, and the 2 devices on Ts and drop cables, plus the one for bus power....

No. THE Zeus 2 is just a device, same as any other. If you can't do it, see my post above, navico can fo it at Albany, or I can do it if you can get it to me.

One knot on a stationary boat's GPS is pretty common, and not due to unit quality or any fault. It's due to the error present in the GPS signal. This is one of the multiple reasons that GPS only is a dangerous way to navigate. If a bulkhead mounted MFD (Plotters are obsolete! - its a Multi Function Display), where the GPS is positioned in the bulkhead can be problematic in some installs - if the bulkhead is thick, and covers the GPS antenna location, you are asking the antenna to "see" through the whole depth of material up to the deck/cabin top - could be 300mm or more. That wont work we

If you want cheap and under the deck, one of these works fine... https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/marketplace/electronics-photography/gps/gps-accessories/listing/3498822278?bof=ipTx3Wl9 It has the SMA adapter, but if your AIS does not have an SMA connector, easy enough to buy a SMA-BNC adapter.