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I have refurbished one of these many years ago, and instructions are on the web - in colour! ST50-Wind-Transducer-Repair.pdf Cricalix.Net https://www.cricalix.net › uploads › 2021/07 › S... PDF 4 Jun 2018 — Rebuild Procedure for a RayMarine (Autohelm) ST-50/Early ST-60 Wind Transducer. Author: Richard Stidger, June 4, 2018 ... sensors for the ST-50 ... 9 pages the mini bearings are the same as used in some fishing reels, and I got mine from a supplier in Onewa road,if he is still there. Slanty, I have a copy for you when you pick it up.

Thanks - slanty, it's yours

Raymarine, and the plug is male- 5pin. I think off a RAymarine i50 system

I have a wind transducer and with spare vanes as seen in photo. It spins OK, but I think it still needs a set of new bearings. There's apparently a set of instructions on the web, for refurbishing,and the mini bearings can be obtained. I've sold the boat I was keeping these for so no further use. Make me an offer and its yours.

Just downsized to a new boat to potter around on, and it came with a Pelagic autohelm - a type I had never come across before. It works OK, but seems at tad overpowered for a little 28 footer. It does have a remote etc, but I don't know anything about 'em. Thought I might sell it and get a lighter unit, but it may actually be something quite good. Anyone got any comments positive and negative about these systems please?

GOLD!

Yes, I'm sure that somewhere this has all been worked out before - but... I have a small GPS in working order, but I'm getting old [ sob!] and I need a bigger screen. Any recommendations for the best android tablet to use with navionics? - and - since I hate re-inventing the wheel- what's the best way of mounting it?

Quite correct, AA is the agent. But then we'd have three authorities, all with their beaurocrats, and all the expenses. Just treat vessels as vehicles.

There is an easy answer to the registration problem, which avoid the incredible expense of setting up a new authority with all its staffing etc. The AA already register thousands of vehicles. Just add boat registration to the AA, minimal setup cost, just a design of one new form, and we're done. Auckland Council of course, are thick, with their registration of jetskis. They wanted that as mentioned above to have the details of the owners in case of misbehaviour, loss etc. Why, oh why, did Auckland Council simple not say "register your jetski by getting a VHF callsign". The same infor

Little snag to batteries shorting out in sea water. I'm pretty sure from my chemistry that the following occurs: Sea water contains salt ie chloride ions. They take up electrons for the battery and form Chlorine gas - very toxic. Not nice to be in an enclosed space with.

MMMM.. what are we actually talking about here - apart from supporting the electronics industry to the tune of 1000s. Speed of vessel using wind angle, cheek sensors, and telltales = 6.2kts Speed of vessel using all the above gear = 6.5 kts?? I guess it's great for the racers, but otherwise it would probable be more than my Lotus is worth. Now - if someone could come up with a device to produce the most comfortable sailing angle....

thanks all, your info much appreciated.

Help/info please. I've come across a well loved Easterly 30. I've sold my boat and I am looking for a boat in which I can potter around the gulf from Kawau to Coromandel in my advancing years [ not going to say how advanced!] How do they sail, say compared to boats of similar size eg Lotus 9.2; Davidson 28 etc. All info gratefully received. cheers

Looking to find one which has been looked after, downsizing for pottering about

I don't know if they are all built the same, but on my Lotus 9.2 there are three pintles and gudgeons connecting the skeg to the rudder blade. To remove the rudder blade and get at the bearings, you actually remove the each piece of wood on the rudder blade just above the supports. It's about 50mm high, and is usually screwed or glued in there as a separate piece. Once you have removed them, the rudder can be lifted off the pintles.

Built 1988 - to MOT specs, maintained to a very high standard. All gear. Selling with marina berth. Reason? 80 years dammit, and the pension just won't support a boat. Would like a half share really, then I could keep sailing for while yet. See full details on TM. Triple skin kauri, all mod cons. Will consider offers on this forum.

Yep- as a golden rule, NEVER let a marketing department into anything at your peril. So they have spent tens of thousands [ or probably hundreds of thousands ] on a totally unnecessary exercise. Coastguard units have to sell raffle tickets to raise funds for local units every summer, and here their marketing dept. is splashing out like there is no tomorrow. We all know Coastguard, it did not need marketing, and a new logo and paint ain't going to assist saving anyone's lives. The front end of Coastguard, all volunteers, does a helluva good job in assisting us when needed, well done you guys.

and,,, I'm getting a bit slow in my old age, forgot to mention the pickup is in Bayswater, Auckland.

Two blade prop, off Yanmar saildrive. I've replaced it with a Kiwiprop. It's a Briski LH 15 x 11. Any reasonable offer will do, I'll never use it again. Photos give an idea of the condition. Only caveat, it's a heavy item, so the buyer will have to pick up. ph 021 153 0747

I think DOC has water available at the campground at Sullivan's Bay- but you would have to carry it out in a dinghy in containers

Don't need to use primer on the blades, they are composite. I just use the silicon topcoat and it sticks for at least two years. The important bit is the metal boss, which must be kept clear of fouling. As above, the clue to needing regreasing is difficulty in reverse, because if the blades stick instead of swinging right across it can stall the engine. I have like others, thought about getting diver to do it in the water, but .... those tiny little screws!

Anchored overnight, no anchor light etc, dragged into another vessel, then yes, I guess you might be held responsible for any damage. I've certainly had problems in the past with inexperienced boaties anchoring closely and not setting their anchors correctly with enough scope etc. However, being proactive, having both and anchor light on which illuminates your vessel, and having an anchor drag alarm set, I think commonsense applies. Given that we have 'phone coverage around most of NZ at the moment, and anchor alarm apps on phones are readily available, it shouldn't be a problem.

Caulerpa, like most seaweeds, can reproduce by producing eggs and sperm cells which fertilise in the water, and then, obviously, spread for kilometers by tidal currents. Although fragmentation also can spread it, once it is established, the action of a few fragments from anchoring ain't going to make much difference. Once again, like the over reaction to kauri dieback, decisions made without scientific evidence. We pay all the time for the foreign species brought in by international travelling ships. Does anyone really think that ships are carefully and fully compliant about emptying thei

If you can, make the ends of the packing where they meet at 45 degrees rather than 90, for an even better seal. I had the same problem on my old Davidson 28, and replaced with a [relatively ] cheap Volvo seal. Doesn't need much clearance, and it worked like a charm for years.

Just from a chemistry point of view, just be careful if you decide to mix acid ie hydrochloric, with alkali - ie Sodium hydroxide - you will get a LOT of heat. That's why earlier in the thread someone said always add acid to water rather than the other way around. Wear goggles and expect the possibility of some spitting of hot liquid.