alibaba

I've fitted the recommended solar controller - it says it is supplying 14.7 v.

I thought I understood my charging system, but now I'm not so sure.... Setup - start battery and house battery. Connected to a VSR. so- when the engine is started, the VSR 'sees' the voltage drop on the start battery, tops that up, and when it reaches full charge, now switches its attention to the house battery and charges that. So far, so good, I think. The voltage regulator has been set to 14.7V to charge the batteried. However, due to lack of use during Covid, my ancient engine driven compressor fridge crapped out, and I have replaced it with an electric driven compressor plate.

Kiwi grip is really good - it's water based and easy to apply with the special roller. When I used it first I was a bit concerned about its durability because of the water base, but it's as hard as nails, and wears well, so don't make the finish too coarse, or you'll take the skin off

BP- you are obviously a gentleman!

yes, DAn Brown, another 'man of action'. He's working for Bill now, and is based in BAyswater. Good guys for YAnmar.

Mostly I have found that engine suppliers will give you the dimensions required of the engine bed/bearers etc, and where the engine mounts need to be. When I have done this in the past, I have found it useful to make up a wooden jig to these dimensions, so you can just sit it in place and see what you need to alter, if anything. It's really worthwhile making this up as it is light enough to move in and out of the engine bay as you adjust stuff. The trickiest things I have found was not the installation of the engine on the bearers, but the alignment of the drive with the previous drive

phots above, niiice job!

yet another rule honoured in the breach. Anyone know of someone who has been prosecuted for not displaying an anchor ball when anchored and fishing? Who will enforce this anyway. The harbour board crews have enough to do, and cannot even enforce the harbour speed limits [ which is far more dangerous than having a zzizz at anchor]. The maritime police are also busy with real crimes. Was there a recent incident which I missed which caused damage etc to provoke this promulgation?

Just a note to those of us with Rocna anchors.When you take them in for re galvanising, make sure that you have cleaned [ with difficulty] out the hollow rollbar. If you don't they will be very reluctant to do the job as there is a danger of sudden gas expansion I was told.

Thanks Ballystick I too have researched and watched that video. The outside/right hand bolt is easily visible and accessible. BUT... if you look at the video, at no stage is there a look at the left hand bolt. It appears to be hidden between the starter flange and the inward curve of the engine crankcase. Even with removal of the air cleaner and alternator, I cannot even see it, let alone get a socket on it. I know I must be missing something here. The guy in the video also has effectively got full access to the side of the engine, whereas I, like most of us I suspect, have acc

I'm starting to feel a bit think with this. After 25years, my starter is sounding that it needs a birthday, so I thought I would remove it and get it serviced - new brushes/contacts etc. However, on inspection, from both front and rear, I can only see access to one bolt. The motor is a Yanmar 3GMF. I've got a manual, which actually in not very helpful. Any advice please?

sounds good, and certainly a selling point for Iphones. BUT...how many of us ever go outside cell coverage around NZ these days. I looked up the coverage of the major networks, and they certainly go a fair distance offshore- $1400 seems a lot to pay for rare occurrences. EPIRBs work everywhere for those odd trips. Of course, if you are an offshore sailor... go for it.

And how did you all find your good partners? Word of mouth? advertising - if so where?

Anyone had any experience of this, good advice etc? Herbert has just put up Bayswater marina prices yet again, in my case over 15%. It's getting real expensive to keep up with my wee Lotus 9.2. I'd go back onto a mooring, but I was broken into twice then, and also there is the problem of insurance. May be I could keep on sailing for a few more years [ bloody old age doesn't help[!], if I could share costs. I did a calculation the other day, added up the usual haulage; maintenance and berthage costs, and I'm not that far short of chartering. However, I do use the boat for more d

i would say so. Not very efficient, but don't leeboards look fantastic! Bloody big sails to handle too

I'd be willing to bet- that spending 25k on a boat and then spending - as others say above-another 25k getting it up to living standard, would be WAY more expensive than spending 35k on a good boat in the first place. I've watched several of my yacht club members, over the years, buy a cheap boat as a do-up. it doesn't work

Moving fouled boats only applies if you then clean the hull in the new location. Marine fouling stays put on the hull. Sure, the bloody things reproduce, but they do it by laying eggs in the water, so on your hull or the marina, it's the same. Clearly I don't pick up organisms when I'm out sailing, so I get infected from the marina itself. And some marinas have the cheek to say that you cannot clean your hull in the marina. Its" please go elsewhere to do it, and spread the stuff even further"

Just received a notice from Bayswater Marina that Auckland Council are about to carry out hull inspections in the marina for pest species and growth etc. If their divers find anything suchlike on your hull , you will get a notice from the council and have to clean it. I actually don't have a problem with us having to antifoul and keep our hulls clean of crap, but what I do object strongly to- is that while the divers are inspecting my [ carefully antifouled ] hull, they are completely ignoring the huge amount of fanworm adhering to the marina piers right next to all our boats! If w

Well - Ex M- Rudolf DID buy it off the insurance co. - paid 7000 for it, bolted the hull up and advertised it for 12000.[ and admitted it was still leaking - " but not much"!

and.. the date is....

There were also some microbursts as far away from Westhaven, in Devonport. My Lotus was sitting in its cradle on the hard at DYC, and was picked up and dropped down hard enough to delaminate the hull from the stringers by over 50mm. Boat was written off. The actual storm cell centre, according to metservice, passed slightly south of Norht Head. Weird.

No- unfortunately I was unable to get anywhere. I always was with Maxwell winches, but not Lewmars of that age. I've solved the problem in one way though, I've just increased the size of my genoa sheets, which has the added advantage in that they give my aged hands a more comfortable grip/

Gently chaps, gently. The unemotional facts are that 1] 95% at least of people on the water are reasonably sensible, and sometimes make mistakes through ignorance. I certainly have. 2] we always remember the odd one who really gave us a fright. 3] yes, its a pity that there is no size/power limit for people buying and operating their first boat. MOst of us have worked our way up from dinghys to keelboats or launches and therefore mostly know what we are doing. let's not lable whole groups because of a few idiots.

What a good neighbour you are. They might be overseas etc etc. I was away in OZ the last time we had a big storm and I really appreciated the care my boat neighbours took with my boat.

Put an iron nail into a copper solution and the copper deposits on the nail [ badly] replacing some iron which dissolves off the nail. I'm sure that it would be ok on wood, fibreglass etc, but I would be a bit wary about the dissimilar metals problem. Does wet and forget or similar solve the problem? I know a guy with an immaculate teak deck which is over 20 years old, and he says all he ever puts on it is wet and forget.