southernman
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Posts posted by southernman
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On 27/11/2023 at 10:18 PM, mattm said:
Yeah, agreed. No way everyone driving themselves would have worked, but isn’t that my point? SGP all but got control of the town. Lyttleton’s maybe never he so many people, bar maybe cruise ships, but the main street was dead.
There was no where free to get up close. The other side of the harbour, sumner road or in houses up the hill, long way away.
I don’t think Auckland would be so flexible to allow sgp such control of numerous areas. Take over part of Silo park, half the car park on the northern side of westhaven for grandstands (sorry about the parking boat owners), means closing the marina during races in an attempt to put the action in an area they can control/sell access to.
Yeah true that. Actually the other side around Diamond Harbour was actually really close. Great views also, just a 30 minute drive which by Auckland standards not far.
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23 hours ago, mattm said:
I think that might have been part of the problem. Sail GP want every seat with a view to pay an admission fee for a seat in a grandstand or more $$ spot. There are too many places in the harbour to view for free from.
Think that’s why Lyttelton worked so well for Sgp. The council, I assume agreed, to the tunnel being closed to nearly all but locals, so to get out there you took a SGP provided bus to the SGP provided viewing area.Nah, the tunnel was closed and public transport provided in order to control flow of traffic. Lyttelton is a small town and parking that many cars would be a nightmare. Also plenty of places to view sail GP in Lyttelton without paying.
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3 hours ago, Black Panther said:
I have never considered the engine much use as a tool for safety. I have once in 50 years used an engine to move away from a reef when becalmed. Other than that nothing comes to mind.
Yes but there are two factors most don't have, time and skill. It's all a trade off. Heaps of time then wait for the right wind. No skill stick the iron sail on. End of the day I'm proudly in the camp of have engines use them to save time and add a level of safety. Of course in the first place have a boat that sails fast, be well informed about weather, tides and anchorages and get out there.
Regarding cats going to windward, most probably motor on passage pretty normal, I've seen a lot in the islands motor sailing as they are potentially poorly designed, too heavy and too much wetted surface. Not that it's a bad thing I love an ice maker and endless hot water and a/c. Just depends on what pushes your buttons. For me our outremer is a good balance. Suprisingly the dagger boards only make around 5% difference.
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On 12/09/2023 at 12:36 PM, LBD said:
Does this mean a dish could sit discretely flat on a coach roof?... without pole.
I bought this: https://star-mountsystems.com/products/low-profile-flat-mount-for-rectangle-starlink-dishy
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20 hours ago, K4309 said:
Spot on raz88, there are so many more elements to making a boat go than just motor size. All you need is a couple of barnacles on the prop and it will go like a sack of sh*t. That is assuming the prop is a well matched size and pitch for your motor and gearbox. The gearbox being relevant as your shaft speed is what makes the prop work, which is completely different to engine rpm.
Given the cost of propellers, esp fancy ones like the super-doper folding ones, how many people have put on a new fancy prop (folder) and found either the pitch or size wasn't quiet right, but sucked it up, or never got around to doing another haul out, getting the engineer / supplier down or paying the coin to change the prop to the correct pitch? esp when you've already had the prop hub machined to match the shaft taper and can't return it?
Not to mention just having a dirty bum on the boat. So yeah, there are loads of reasons a boat may not be able to motor off sea wall in a blow. I'd bet a bottle of whisky that the engine being too small accounts for only 10% of incidence. Poorly matched prop, dirty prop (barnacles) dirty bum would account for the rest I reckon.
Good points made it's certainly not just HP but i'm just talking about the general intended use of the boat, Cat 1 up in the islands or further afield, not an Elliot on Auckland harbour. Generally there is enough wind to sail most places. The only times you need a reliable well powered engine are when you have no wind, anchoring or when in the sh*t. The last one, you want to have a well powered vessel. When it's dark and it starts blowing from the wrong direction and you have rocks behind you I can guarantee you will be thankful of having the right power behind you. Having recently sailed around the top end of Australia, I can guarantee you a well powered engine is essential. The tides and currents are huge.
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On 31/08/2023 at 5:36 PM, Island Time said:
30 HP was common for these. Lots of 40 ftrs had 30's - incl many of the farr 1220's.
Island Time had the Volvo 2003, 28hp when I bought her. One day in Wellington in 45 knots I could not get into my berth directly to weather. Cruising speed was about 6 knots. The Whiting 40 would be about the same weight and performance. Once I upgraded to the 2003T (Turbo version, 43 HP) cruising speed 6.5 - 7, approx. 8 at WOT. Best economic speed was about 4.9 knots at 0.75ltrs/hour.
Now a VPD2 40hp 4 cyl. More torque and better performance, Cruise at about 7knots, and no problem pushing into a headwind!
Yeah my comments more about intended use. 30hp is fine for most of the time until it's not. My first offshore boat was underpowered and it nearly meant we ened up on the rocks. You will get away with 30hp no problems until you need the extra punch. Case in point this season we pushed into 45 knots and tide to get the last 1 hour of a 4 day passage. Certainly was very glad for the extra power to enable this with a tired crew, the constant squalls and rain and night approaching.
I was not meaning to say 30hp is not a good option, more that if you are comparing boats of the same type and a bigger engine is avialable then take that option. There is also nothing more frustrating than a small motor at higher RPM for a day on end when their is no wind. Of course there are real sailers out there that are happy to wait it out for wind, but not for me.
Trust me you will also end up doing more sailing with a well sized engine, just removes the stress and you know you can get home into most weather!
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I would also say that 30hp is quite undersized for that boat in my opinion for a boat headed offshore. Loaded up she would struggle to make headway.
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You can 12 volt it also. Plenty of tutorials on Youtube about it, i've just ordered a flat mount CNC kit as well. Should make the mounting a whole like tidier. Just be aware of the geofencing that they are putting in place if you go with the monthly rather than the 'RV' plan.
Great product, will be interesting to see what pricing does once they have competition soon.
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On 27/07/2023 at 3:13 PM, marinheiro said:
which Insurer is that? When I raised it with Baileys/Vero they said no way on Inter - island passages. Min 3 crew all international passages.
Even getting coverage for 2 crew is getting tough, can't with Vero, can with Pantaneius at an extortionate price, don't know about Topsail, Haven KJ and Williams.
Was pretty simple for us. We simply emailed our insurance broker and said we are moving the boat with a crew of one from Fiji to NZ and more recently from France to the US with two, no problem at all but the excess was more I remember. The cost is higher but hey that's insurance. Self insurance is something I can't afford for high value boats.
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Tonga
in MarineTalk
Your best option is to also purchase a refundable return flight on top of ships letter. Tonga can be inconsistent with entry and exit. The moment you are checked out cancel the ticket. Border crossing staff are very much a mixed bag of knowledge on this matter.
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Singlehanded is possible with insurance. Just notify them I've had not issues.
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We have one. Works well. Only thing i'd say is that it's not a replacement for a Raymarine / chartplotter really.
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Hope you have a big wallet! Foreshore reserve is a bit of a mine field.
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Installation of a carbon filter on the outlet will remove most of the taste and odour issues with chlorinated water. It's good to fill the tank with treated water and hold a residual then remove it at point of use.
0.5 micron is good but if you want to make sure that nothing gets past make sure you use a absolute cartridge rather than a nominal one and increase it to 1 micron if you like.
Aftermarket standard 10" housings are the cheapest to run rather than smaller 5" ones which are hard to source and expensive. Only issue is that they take more room up!
If you want to replace chlorine, you can use chlorine dioxide which has less taste and odour.
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It's going to happen everywhere in NZ. I'm surprised that Yachting NZ and the Marine Industry Association are not getting involved. Both take fees but seem to do very little for the average punter.
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I have two of them and they are amazing. One at the holiday home and yes one on the boat. The good thing with the plan is that you can pause the plan so you can use it for a couple of months over Christmas when you need it then pause the plan. Rumour has it a cheaper and lower speed plan with a lot lower monthly fee is coming soon.
The marine/business version is very good value and the hardware is designed for high end use. I have heard the demand is outstripping supply so the price point must be right.
The boat is a little hit and miss and remember peeps if you have anything in the way e.g. trees, cliffs, masts etc etc they don't work so well. In the sounds we have had some reception issues, however I can confirm the latency and speed is excellent mostly.
Youtube has plenty of examples how to mount, there are even people putting them onto cars.
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Anyone interested in this lot? I've sold the yacht that had teak decks so don't need this lot. Cost a fortune to buy this. It's all the kit you need to fix your teak decks up. Make an offer.
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Go cruise laminate, hard as nails and it lasts.
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She's a great boat. I have had the pleasure of sailing this boat and probably the only person to have done so in anger in the last 20 years! Long story.
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That's a pretty cool little product, independant GPS. While not new tech it's quite handy really.
If I had that I'd have wireless wind via Bluetooth, Wireless GPS via Bluetooth, Wireless depth via Bluetooth.
So far I've had a very good result with wireless wind and depth products. Power consumption is so small I don't even turn them off. In fact the wind powers itself via it's solar panel.
To get around the connected tablets getting wet issue, we added wireless charging pads to our Ipad Mini's inside a waterproof case. I then 3D printed some holders for them so they sit in place all the time they are charged wirelessly via their charge pads. So far so good. Means the Ipad's can remain totally sealed in their cases. The new Ipad Mini's 6 is such a good size for navigation devices if you are looking. Here are the wireless charger bits that go inside the case: https://www.gadgets4geeks.com.au/nillkin-magic-tag-plus-wireless-charging-receiver-card-for-ipad-air-pro
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7 hours ago, Ed said:
I bought the openwind setup last year for my 8.5 tri, plays nicely delivering AWA and AWS straight into the N2K bus.(they do a 0183 version as well)
Unfortunatly the boat is on my driveway being repaired so can't give definitive info for sure how good it is in use, but on the test bench my triton displays (and the vulcan) will do the TWA and TWS calculations. Also the unit has been out in the elements screwed on the fence post for the last year, seems fine.
In research for finding a rotating mast solution, the Openwind was the cheapest black box solution that was straight plug and play into the network.
Next up in cost and complexity was LCJ Capteurs, they do a rotating mast version with a compensentation box that takes a signal from a mast rotation sensor, in fact I think they are reccommending the hall effect honeywell sensor IT pictured above. This has its own calibration settings, but then plugs straight into the N2K network.
Third option is the full monty processor as mentioned above, certanily the most capable/accurate, but big dolars and proper setup of the system is a profession all of itself!
Great thanks for that, that is exactly my setup as well so I'll run with Openwind, great to have a local review.
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Given the Open Wind has an NMEA output which enables calculation of the rotation, one would assume it works with B&G? Does B&G take any NMEA input for wind? It's a small racing tri so our plan is to have a single B&G display e.g. chartplotter with wind input.
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@Island Time got a tricky one for you, race boat has a rotating mast and I want to mount wind on the top. Any ideas that would integrate with a B&G chartplotter that would show apparent and true wind? I was looking at something like this: https://www.openwind.de/
Thoughts?
Corsair Trimaran Replacement Nets
in TechTalk
Posted
Hey just wondering if anyone could help me source in New Zealand some replacment Trimaran nets? Google is not helping much.
Cheers