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Everything posted by morspeed

  1. Cheers for that, just got the heads up on that event yesterday. Tomorrows plans are up early for Day 1 of Elimination series then a 15 minute drive to Sandspit road. Was going show up around 10.30 and take a look see.Looking forward it!!. Cheers
  2. Thanks Sloopjohn, Guy on trade me has a couple of PT masts, one has external sail track and other is tear drop shape with internal sail slide, is the tear drop one likely to be a current mast section like the PT association sells?
  3. I just found that when trawling for info on the interweb first stop was Yacht clubs involved in Dinghy sailing and most sites were really badly maintained, even the Australian sites, hit a link and there's a dead url, hit another link and the gallery is empty, hit a link on tuning a PT and you find an article written in 1980 etc..... The NZ PT Org site is the best I found but even that was not a friendly site to navigate, I am sure these are all maintained by volunteers and I know how hard it can be to find time to update sites so am not trying to give the clubs a hard time. Most sites ha
  4. Very cool, I love RC boats and tinker with them occasionally as well. Its my old man on the wire, pic taken 1968 in Tamaki estuary, on PT # 17 he built with his mate. Part of the reason I am pursuing my own PT ambition. Clarks yacht club beach might be a go, I think they are meeting next Sunday so though I would take a drive over and talk to some members. Drive past the Village twice a day so for sure I could talk myself into stopping in there to catch up with you, some advice from a old hand at PT set up would be fantastic.
  5. Thank you very much SloopJohn, great info to start with. Very sorry to hear about you having to leave racing behind, that is a very hard thing to live with in my personal experience. Unbelievably you are minutes from where I live,thought I was all alone out in the provinces. Any chance we could catch up and we could discuss PT's in more depth?. I was planning on joining a local club to sail but not sure which one yet, don't know anything about them and I have been finding that sailing club websites through out NZ are very poorly maintained with lots of missing links and a lot o
  6. Yep that is I, Mini 40 and everything marine related has been in a holding pattern for 3 years now, moving home and some lengthy and challenging projects got in the way of the important stuff like mucking around on boats... But I am getting some own time back now, and will complete Mini 40 moulds plus PT starting right about now.
  7. Its completely dismantled and I want to rebuild into a boat that will perform well. My knowledge of what I should do on PT fit out is fairly limited. I am picking foils ,main and running rigging is where the money is gonna go but not sure where to start with these upgrades. Plus I need a mast, this ones snapped. Been a while since I was onboard Crew.org but I recall there were a couple of PT sailors around a few years ago. Plan to have a crack at racing this summer, so if any one out there can point me in the right direction for advise on set up that would be very cool.
  8. I'm not buying GD being responsible for the media leak earlier..the whole thing smells like DB leaked to the media a week ago knowing the board would be hamstrung to make comment...DB looking for a sympathy vote and to give GD Inc some hurt.. Time for DB move on...he will be fine..plenty of coin in his tin after 20 years and someone else will buy him. However I agree 100% the person that handed the layday cost the cup..and I seriously doubt anyone but GD made that call.
  9. Over two years ago I applied peller clean to my 4 x alloy props, cost around $160 to buy the stuff from the same trade me trader who now sells propgold. I hauled the boat a month ago and after a water blast the props came up mint..I had been watching them closely for the past two years and they were always very clean after a run up,even just idling in gear in marina berth. So impressed I tried to get more of the stuff for a reapplication only to be told he now only had propgold..don't know how propgold stacks up and its a shame he stopped selling pellerclean as that stuff rocks. Ho
  10. Final result.. On the veneer there is no difference between the penetrol and the special brew bbay suggested..they both dried at the same rate and hardened up nicely. Can't tell which is which to look at them..both have a satin sheen after two coats two days apart..so will run with the 3 way home made brew. On the solid maple and cabinet frames the penetrol left more of a flat oil look but the homebrew left a nice satin gloss. So thanks bbay and wheels for all your in depth knowledge..very helpful and great results.
  11. Ok sweet..thanks for the help bbay and wheels, Picked up a can of Penetrol and the kit bbay suggested. Applied a couple of test strips to a locker door, one of penetrol, and another of a 1/3rd each boiled linseed, turps and oil based satin varnish. After a coat of each today they both dried at a similar rate and after 20 minutes polished up with a slight sheen with new clean maple grain behind so all good. Both patches look pretty much the same and after 2 hours they were touch try. Will chuck another coat on tomorrow to raise the sheen a bit then make a call on the fin
  12. yeah..snap...i was reading last night about how the danish oil rags could ignite..and thought..yeah..nah..pretty unlikely really...and then the news on stuff this morning...exactly that happened...a timely reminder indeed
  13. The product on now is a urathane /castor oil mix and the manufacture of the product state you simply sand back lightly and recoat with a rag so clearly the urathane and castor oil mix will dry over the old coat no problem..however in this case i have sanded back and removed all traces of the original coat and am back to a very white maple wood finish already for a coat of something new.. I do not want a gloss finish ..satin is fine..that was the original look and was good. I tried some cabots stain and varnish product on a small section and the maple did not take up the stain very ev
  14. Wheels, thank you for the detail and it does match up with my googling experience last night after having being informed by Bbay that Danish oil is what i am looking for. The problem is the products Wheels mentioned are mostly available at bunnings but there is no way to find out exactly whats in the tin you are buying and i really want to know what i am paying for.. Also it appears that danish oil off the shelf is not all created equal, all are made to different recipes and the only way perhaps to know you are getting a better product is by buying the more expensive one. The idea
  15. Thank you for the kind offer rigger but i will look to find a oil which has a composition I understand.
  16. Hey thanks, that is excellent info..so now i know what i am looking for i googled danish oil and bingo..its very similar to what i need. Will see what i can buy off the shelf or make my own easily over this weekend Was at bunning a few days ago and asked all the above questions to the paint staff..bunnings have a very big range on the shelf of varnish, stains and oils..including danish oils.. The staff were hopeless...was told they do not have a product like it as everything needed to be brushed or rollered on..even though they actually had a big range a danish oils right next to the
  17. Hi, Hope someone can help as endless hours of googling and visits to Burnsco and bunnings have been fruitless. My boat interior is solid maple and maple veneer..when it was built new the timber was finished with a product called "mohawk pour and wipe" which is basically a urathane and castor oil mix (Castor oil about 10%. and urathane about 40% with the rest being composed of hydrocarbons, toulene, petroleum distillates). Any way it seems to have been a great product..leaves a hard satin finish and allows the natural maple woodgrain visible. This stuff is applied with a rag..
  18. Hi Jono, if you don't mind sharing i am interested in how you set up the exit process, am looking at a 50/50 on my boat but not sure how to agree on value should someone want to bail down the road..plus how to make sure the next new person coming in is agreeable to the remaining party...i can see some messy complications in this area.. cheers Gary
  19. Hope someone can offer some help on this.. My galley and cupboards are HPL bonded to teak ply. A few sections have had long term water ingress between the HPL and teak and the HPL has lifted..in one place the HPL has come completely away. The teak under the HPL is in perfect condition fortunately. . What is the correct glue to use to bond it back down? Cheers in advance Gary
  20. I need to replace my snapped PT mast Sloopjohn.... What section would you recommend for replacement and where can i buy a blank? ( or a old but good mast) Cheers Gary
  21. That does help Redline, thanks. pulled all switchboard panel off yesterday and tracked all wiring..yes she's heavy duty stuff..main into switchboard from male plug at transom is 10 gauge. Waterheater is a seaward model S600 with 1500w element, really i would like to put a 230v element in it maybe 750W ?. There are no appliances fixed or otherwise onboard except for the 230vac/12vdc fridge I installed a year ago. The main switch is a 30 amp double pole ( L&N) circuit breaker...you still recommend replace this with a RCD or just put one inline with circuit breaker?. Switc
  22. No point as the appliances (i assume) would be 230V and getting an inverter for just the hot water would not be worthwhile. Yep only hot water to deal with and besides 110v/230v inverters are damn expensive... and still have to get the WOF to hook into shorepower.
  23. and the reason why marinas and others are asking for more and more certificates and compliance costs are increasing. Morspeed - presuming it is a glass boat you have. Whatever make sure the earthing is local and only to your appliances, for example not to the hull and rigging. Thanks Otto, Yep, glass, will look into how its bonded, its all factory install now and actually pretty tidy and quality cabling throughout, just not sure if the yanks build/wire to NZ standards.
  24. Actually its impressive you haven't had any smoke escape from the wires, I've heard its a bastard to put back in.
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