Romany

That woulda ripped your undies wokldnt it! $125 used ob has nothing on that...

I'd imagine its big boy trousers stuff north of the cape now but interested to know - are the boats that have withdrawn turbo charged coastal & harbour racers or are they more than capable offshore boats? Respect to them all regardless - its a pretty serious bit of water and I guess even just starting requires significant prep & expertise not to mention investment.

Happened to me many years ago except I didn't fall off. I was a deliberate step around the stern of my dinghy. Didn't quite expect to be stepping off the dock. At night, 'W' pier where you could tie up freely for it seemed as long as u wanted (that is another story entirely), winter, wet weather gear on cos it was blowing a hoolley and raining , on my jack jones, but the worst of it was - holding a 'new to me' 8 horse long shaft Merc outboard that I had bought from fast eddie the outboard guy in Ellerslie (used to be a Miller Moyes place there by the motorway and the guy worked there. TB

Yes I am willing to try it myself but I don't have a bearing press, and so think I would have to resort to primitive procedures - like a f...ing big hammer to remove the bearings . I have yootube too, and of course it looks simple enough. D2 has a mechanical boyfriend so I think I will get his help and do it under supervision

Yes i was disappointed with that reply. That the pump is off a boat meant i was handed onto the marine guy. Clearly cos its a boat its so much more complex.

Just been guesstimated between $1500 & 1800 to sand blast,pull a 3gm30f raw water pump apart, and fit 2 new bearings and seal, repaint. I supply the bits! I think they are taking the piss. Anybody know an engineering place i could try for sensible pricing? I have removed the pump from boat so no farting around.

Thanks E. I got Steve from Auckland Marine Boat Valet to do propspeed for me. My 'neighbour ' on the yard got his done at same time so it was efficient for all. Reasonable price, done properly, with the good stuff and I did other things too so everybody wins

Thanks all - I am coming to the conclusion that taking the prop to an applicator is the way to go.

anybody in Akld area have a part pack they want to sell (aside from retailers I mean)? I presume it doesn't go off in the can so I guess I could keep it for next time but would rather spend my cash on topsides paint atm. I have 16 x 9, 2 blade so I need bugger all of this stuff.

Beware, summer may be the biggest scam of all. So far it is absent without good reason.

Thanks that all makes sense.

Thanks for reply. Lag screws to secure cutlass bearing housing and resist it spinning with the shaft. My understanding is that there isnt much load and logic says it gets less as time marches on. 45mm embedding into deadwood I think. I intend to apply some 4500 sealant/adhesive onto the screws as they begin to reach max penetration and also on the mating face of housing as it screws onto shaft tube as well as thread sealant for tube to housing. I did think about setting threaded rods into the hole but it feels like reinventing the wheel. The old screws lasted 48 years so i

I have new 7/16th lag screws and assume the hole into which they are going should be smaller. The big question is how much smaller? Going into glass sheathed kauri. Is 3/8ths too tight?

Never let the facts get in the way of a good story, but lets not forget this is all about the back pockets of a few. If I could be arsed, I'd rather watch it on tele in any case. Each to their own.

Praising Piedy boys?!! What next.what the hell? Following the most noble of tenets - to help another at sea.. yes, well done them men -

i i . Either my stutter is worsening or I was in the presence of a superior when typing that

3= nothing. Effectively becomes option 2. Hell will freeze over before option 1 occurs.

Now Im ready to reinstall the housing and have to drill out the holes in housing to accomodate 7/16th lagscrews. Would 3/8 holes in deadwood be ok for the screw to 'bite' or is that too tight? And what thread sealant should i i apply to the thread? Teflon based as I understand it is best but I cant find any.

I never realised how much heat a richard contained until I had to unblock the Lavac after someone who was a benefactor of the Spencer family had been there. No, not the boatbuilder - the waiheke family that owned Caxton paper Instant case of the sweats

Bog paper is the culprit

I remember Simon as an enthusiastic, positive guy with a kind manner. He knew much and spoke it quietly without fanfare. Such a loss in many ways. Condolences to his family and loved ones. Fair winds and following seas & all that...

What kind of cannon? I have always wanted one of those jobbies you put in the top of a winch

Does anybody know if I could stop my galvanised mooring chain from corroding by fitting an anode to it - say at slightly above the point where the chain sinks to seafloor at lowest tide?

They should be declared an invasive pest and a significant eradication programme should be commenced with urgency.

Looks great doesnt it? Funny though - we used to have one mag for boating and it seemed to cover many interests. Perhaps they should have left sailing where it was and started another one called "Invasive NZ" where they could include bloody stinkpots (now masquerading as yachts), fizz nasties of varied shapes and sizes, and sub surface invaders. I'm gonna buy one of this new one cos theres more sails in one mag than I have seen in yonks and thats worth the price