[the first new zealander to take part in the vendee globe]

Is there a GiveALittle page? What's the suit and interesting chin strap hat in the pic?

[A cruising conundrum]

LOL

A - remove it

B - reuse it

C - put a grate on your sink

[mummery/hearn millennium 55]

Which Cape 40's did you build?

[Why cant we buy this Antifoul]

Thought I'd look at the Altex AYB No.5 Antifouling NZ Safety Sheet. It didn't define TWA or STEL or TEEL but did tell me that mice who got too much exposure "produced signs of marked central nervous system (CNS) depression, including prostration after 2 hours, narcosis after 3 hours and some deaths". So if I see anyone lying down on the job ....

 

Then again, from the Australian Safety Sheet - "Some thiocarbamates are structurally similar to disulfiram and may cause the characteristically unpleasant alcohol type reactions lasting for several hours"

 

Altex ABY No. 5 Antifoul Composition
copper(I) oxide    40 - 50%
zinc oxide         10 - 20%
n-butanol          10 - 20%
xylene             10 - 20%
rosin-colophony    1 - 10%
thiram             1 - 10%

etc

 

For Altex No 5 you can leave it out of the water for as long as you like (Phew, one less thing to worry about)

Dry Times (75 μm DFT / 25°C / 50% RH):
To Recoat - Minimum 4 hours
- Maximum Not critical
To Launch - Minimum 8 hours
- Maximum  Not critical

 

But seriously, chewing gum on the water blasting has got me thinking. The info sheet says "With the correct preparation it can be applied over existing copper based antifouling". Preparation for a repaint is,

 

"High pressure water clean (5,000 – 10,000 psi / 330 –
660 bar) to remove all marine growth, hydrolysed antifouling, salts,
loose paint and any other foreign matter."

 

"OR: Low pressure water clean (3,000 psi / 200 bar minimum) to
remove all marine growth, hydrolysed antifouling, salts, loose paint
and any other foreign matter.
AND - Wet sand the surface with 80 grit sandpaper to ensure total
removal of any remaining contaminants, including residual
hydrolysed antifouling and slime. Rinse thoroughly."

 

"The cleaned surface, once dry should be free of any powdered
antifouling residues and should be inspected for defects in the film.
Existing anti-fouling must be secure and intact, and not excessively
overbuilt."

 

"Repairs to the coating system should be completed before the
application of any subsequent coat of antifouling. To ensure good
adhesion, any exposed primers / undercoats should be thoroughly
sanded (p80 grit), dedusted & coated with the appropriate primer
before application of any antifouling."

 

"Thorough wet sanding is recommended at the waterline, as the wet
/ dry cycle and UV exposure can cause premature failure if brittle or
crazy cracked coatings remain." So that is good info re my earlier question about getting marine growth up higher up the sides of Storm Fantasy now that it's in Okahu Bay.

[Why cant we buy this Antifoul]

Chewing gum, I'm guessing you mean don't use a water blaster on haulouts when you don't intend to sand back and reapply new AF?

[Yacht registration]

Black Panther

Could you possibly post the list your pharmacist friend suggested for you versus the Cat 1 list? I'm keen to learn.