B00B00
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Posts posted by B00B00
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Looking at the rudder setup I would think that the blades would need to be all the way down to have the correct balance with enough blade forward of the rudders pivot point. Half rudder would make most of the blade being behind the pivot point and a huge load on the helm.
Hard to tell from the photos but it looks like the centreboards have some angle aft? Again the centreboard depth makes a big difference as you need the centre of effort/lateral resistance of the boat to be in the right place in relation to the sail plan and not enough centreboard blade makes the rudder work as the lateral resistance which loads it up.
Mainsail shape is also a big player. A really deep draft aft high road main will overload the helm. A taller, skinny, flatter small square head main with the draft in the right position and using your rotating wing mast to create the depth when needed might make a big difference. And again a headsail with no entry/shape forward and all the draft aft also puts the sails effort quite far aft loading the helm.
It's all got to work in harmony.
I'm just up the river from you in Stillwater and out and about in my dinghy all the time (usually towing kids in sailing dinghys and beach catamarans around). Happy to come down and have a look with you sometime to see if we can suss out the issue and possible solution. I'm a sailmaker and ex multihull sailor so can have a look at the sailplan and sheeting angles ect.
I have the 45ft Jeanneau just past the Stillwater wharf called Rogue 3.
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You really think so? Looks like he's getting hung out to dry pretty badly to me... Just got caught to far to windward and couldn't sail low enough to get back in touch.
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If you are talking about the ST4000 tiller drive that goes with the EV100 then no you can't really steer the boat with it attached.
It will move a small amount but not enough to actually steer a boat properly.
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14 minutes ago, K4309 said:
How?
Ever tried VMG flat running in light winds on a wide powerfull foiling IMOCA 60?
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It's an old Grand Mistral 80 race boat that's been converted to a cruiser. They livebon board and are just saving on marina fees.
Pretty sure they have a container or some kind of storage setup at gulf harbour somewhere and bring the dinghy in there often.
He's not an easy guy to deal with.
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Just to clarify its no where near the tallest mast in the world. It's the second tallest alloy mast in the world. There are many masts that are much taller. Maybe when it was launched it was close but not these days.
The yacht A for example has 3 masts with one of them being 100m which is 28m taller that Bayesian.
Aquijo has 2 90m masts
M5 89m
Bayesian 72m. Tall mast but way off the tallest and in fact she's not a huge boat in the superyacht world.
I'm no stranger to these big boats, have delivered and raced them all round the world but I am truly staggered at the low AVS on this boat. But I guess it's pretty standard on these big boats?
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I thought Sneaky frog was on the last leg of the Round North Island race when it sank?
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The resene marine shield paint is the answer. Makes them look like new again.
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Yes I have a spare Kiwi Prop. Was only used for about a year before I replaced it with a Gori.
Specs below.
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On 12/07/2024 at 8:13 PM, funlovincriminal said:
Hotdogger Locked and loaded for tomorrow. Packed start line in the Safety at Sea division- 45+ boats!
Looks like enough breeze to make it back to Eden Park in time for the game 😅
Talk us through your day Nigel.
I jumped on Serena to fill in for one of the owners who couldn't make it. Bloody cool boat and we managed to win the long haul division.
Big park up under Rangitoto that took a few hours to negotiate but overall a really nice day on the water.
Thanks to Brendan on Kick (Kick ass) for taking my 14 year old as crew for this series.
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It races regularly out of Panmure.
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Rogue 3 will be supplying the obnoxious music.
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26 minutes ago, mcp said:
Does the balmar voltage sense run on a separate wire all the way to the battery. If not run one. Then custom set your absorption voltage to 13.9v, float 13.35v. Your alternator needs to have a temperature sensor attached to the alternator.You won't over charge with this profile and you will get 99% charged. You don't need a current sensor to fully charge a battery on a alternator as the field current is reduced as the alternator finds it easier hold target voltage. This is called charge acceptance.
If your battery monitor is a victon, I would use the inbuilt relay to turn the alternator off at 14.2 volts to protect the batteries from high cell voltage and disconnecting from the alternator.
Yes my voltages are conservative, but you will get 99% charged with the alternator. Your renewables should be able to handle the rest.
Yup my battery monitor is a Victron BMV 702 as well as my 3 Solar regulators. All Bluetooth on my phone. see attached screenshot of all victron units.
Note that screenshot was taken in at night and the top one is on the start battery hense the different voltage readings.
Yes there is alternator and battery temperature sensors on the regulator.
Also a picture of the alternator type and boat for reference.
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9 hours ago, CarpeDiem said:
Oh yep. As you say these have BMS's built in. You can't get any signal out of them so no option to control the regulator. They are also MOSFET type BMS's so I do not recommend connecting a winch to them - although with 4 BMS's you'd probably be OK - but I would still not recommend it cause if the BMS's blow up you'd be pretty annoyed
The key issue you face is that you cannot control the charge termination from the 614. It has no ability to detect the tail current and therefore you cannot safely fully charge from the alternator.
My recommendation would be to:
1. set the 614 to charge to 14.4v and then switch to float at 13.4 as soon as 14.4 is reached
2. 2x small DC/DC chargers set to the appropriate profile for each of your lead banks
3. Continue with your 3-way splitter so that if all 4x BMS do switch off any load dump will be absorbed by the LA's
4. Let the solar top up the LFP
Troubleshooting:
1. Bring your LFP bank down to ~75% and disconnect your bow batteries from the splitter
2. Start the engine and check the voltage at the back of the alternator and the voltage at the LFP - how much voltage drop is there?
3. How much current is going into the LFP? (I can loan you an amp clamp)
4. How much is going into the Start battery (it should be negligable)
I went through this exact troubleshooting exercise myself. Turned out that the voltage drop was 0.9v, this resulted in the LFP being charged at 13.8v so the current dropped right down giving me ~40Amps at the LFP's. By winding the alternator up to 15.6v I was able to get 90A into the LFP. The permanent answer was 70mm2 cables AND re-routing the cables to make the run shorter.
All makes good sense thanks Rowan. Might have to employ you for a few days to have a look at it.
What is the advantage of keeping the 3 way splitter and adding the DC-DC chargers as well?
Would you ever drop the thruster/anchor winch out of that circuit and then just use a bigger DC-DC charger onto them?
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Were you expecting there to be an additional BMS somewhere in the system?
This was all installed in 2017 and done alot of miles. Nothing wrong with it I just think I can get more out of it. The only change I made was an upgrade from the Balmar 612 to a 612 party due to a terminal breaking off the 612 (fixed a while ago but not perfect) and I thought the Lifepo4 charge profile might extract a bit more juice out of the alternator. Obviously I have played with the belt manager and other settings to make sure the field current is not being limited.
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The BMS is built into the lifepo4 batteries.
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11 hours ago, Island Time said:
Bow batteries are cranking batts, (or should be!) So voltage is what matters.
Ideally the balmar should be controlled by the battery BMS, so it does have current measurement etc. If it's not, it should be. The bms can switch the balmar ignition wire safely.
So, when the house is a bit down, turn off the start and thruster batts, and make sure the alt is putting out full output. If not, adjust the balmar till it is.
Combiners for charge are not great - the banks being charged are different types and chemistry, and have different charge profiles. Ideally alt to house only, and DC-DC for the other two.
There is no need for huge dc-dc, as neither the start nor the thruster batts should run for long periods. I often use around 20a for this.
Move the winch to the house bank.
Pretty sure the BMS is not connected to the Balmar 614 but it could be. It's all a bit above my skill set.
I have a victron 30a DC-DC charger which I was going to use to the start battery and then look at getting another one for the thruster batteries. You are right that if I connect the Anchor winch to the house bank then the start and thruster batteries will not need a huge charging setup. They don't do much work really.
What do I need between the alternator and lifepo4 bank to protect the alternator if the BMS shuts the batteries off?
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7 hours ago, Bad Kitty said:
It's BooBoo we're talking about, I imagine the stereo power draw is roughly 27,000 times the starlink draw?
Haha only 3 amplifiers and a couple of cooling fans. It's the smoke machine and laser lights that really do the damage!
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Bow bank is currently just for the Bow thruster. I have no real way of measuring the discharge on these other than the voltage but it's only used in short bursts.
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I can only get around 50A into the house batteries. Charging goes into a 3 way battery isolator to the house, start and thruster battery banks. Biggest issue right now is that the new balmar smart regulator is set on the Lifepo4 profile and cuts out all charging when the house bank is full until they get down to around 90% again. Anchor winch feeds off the start battery which isn't ideal when the regulator has shut the alternator down. Fine to just drop the anchor but if you have to reset a few times the start battery gets very low. I can put the solar into the start battery if needed.
I was thinking about putting all the charge into the house and using a DC to dc charger to the start and 2 big AGM bow thruster batteries. I could also very easily feed the anchor winch from the bow thruster bank.
I have 620w of solar, a 400w wind generator and a 600w watt & sea hydrogenerator so don't usually have a shortage of juice. But the 100a per day drain from the starlink made it much harder to keep up this summer cruise.
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Could work for me. I currently have a 100A balmar alternator and MC614 Smart regulator charging 400AH lifepo4 but the whole setup is under performing. The charge is split 3 ways to the bow battery bank, house and start. I was considering changing to a DC-DC charger setup.
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Nigel I have one you can borrow for the race if you want.
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17 hours ago, waikiore said:
Dave Jackson bow in the background?
Top marks for that observation!
Its the Kinsman, David designed and built it for his brother Alan. My brother and sister in law have brought it have been giving it a birthday. Going back in the water shortly.
There is a other one that lives on the end of our wharf too.
Surveyor.
in MarineTalk
Posted
Hayden Braddock from Marine Survey Group does a really good job. Always done my surveys.