ex TL systems

I was recently told durepox from resene is the go not sure of cost but you probably won’t need a lot. i have used acrylic enamel on plywood boats and it seemed to work pretty well and hard wearing

Had an awesome 3 weeks in January February brought oryx from Whangarei then had a great family holiday around motuihe Waiheke and Rotoroa. Heaps of swimming and rope swings under the pohutukawas 2 hanging out to go surfing next week and taking the new proa into Okiwi next summer

I meant soft shackle the block to the headboard to get it closer. But like the others have said I think something like a snap block fixed to the headboard with the top of the block level or below the top of the sail would allow maximum hoist. ?

Can you just soft shackle it on with dyneema

I have never worried about what the auto pilot compass is saying as it only indicates where the boat is pointing not where its going. I just use my track numbers on the gps and when that is the same as the course I want then push auto or use the plus and minus buttons to adjust. The thing I like about tiller pilots is the fact that all the bits are in one place and if it doesn’t work you can swap the whole unit with a spare easily. It helps that they are relatively cheap. The pelagic units look pretty solid.

Hi foiled I have sent you a message.

The tiller pilot can be mounted fore and aft pushing a tiller mounted at right angles to normal. You just may need to change the auto pilots port or starboard setting to suit. Pilot wouldn’t want to be mounted on a moving surface like a rudder though.

I would much rather trust in a well setup dinghy with stuff in it that you have checked recently. And sails. And a gps. Etc etc

if you used a 40 mm plastic drain pipe to run the chain through you could have a y or t piece in it near the top which should allow most of the water to run away back over the side. Put a flap valve in the drain line so water won’t get forced back up it. Might need to experiment a bit with some hard plumbing pipe but I think you could make something that works without the chain jamming in t the pipe. You may also be able to disconnect the chain from the anchor and plug the pipe for sailing but this would be a nuisance and possibly dangerous if you needed your anchor in a hurry.

Much of the maintenance is due to the complexity or otherwise of systems. If you can be satisfied with simplicity there will be a lot less stuff to look after and fix. Add shallow draught beach ability copper coat Antifoul outboard motors solar panels and a free standing rig and you have pretty low maintenance. Won’t suit most people though.

Well easier to be able to motor sail in both directions as well as having the motor always facing forward whichever way you are sailing so it catches less water. Be good when manoeuvring onto mooring etc to be able to push sideways etc too. Will need to spend some time with the boat first to see what we want though.

Talking sail covers the new boat is a tidy up project which has deep u shape booms for the main and jib. Thinking of making zipped boom bags that can be tied into the bottom of the boom as lazy bags with the lazy jacks but the whole zipped bag could be removed with sail inside for storage in the hulls for winter. That and maybe a rotating outboard mount inside a beer keg or similar so I can motor in both directions.

I have had them on many different boats from 28 to 46 feet and would not be without them. Always leave them up too. If you have full battens and good cars with a lazy bag you can just let the halyard go and the sail drops into the bag. Too easy. Can also use as a back I up or replacement for the topping lift too. If the batten ends get caught on the way up you can pull the cords forward but I just go head to wind and watch what I am doing

I would guess more than that but lots on moorings and not actually going out much. A boat on a mooring can be pretty cheap accommodation with not a lot of bills to pay. Much less expensive if you don’t need to keep it mobile.

When we lived aboard in Australia we caught rain water. Never ran out or had to get water from shore. Around:200 litre storage and a lot simpler than a water maker.

Yes plenty of places to stop on the way. Would be nice to spend a summer up there but I still really like Barrier and its a lot closer

Bp I think I saw your old harryproa parked up at norsand in Whangarei a month or so ago

So far I have found it easier to keep one end as the front where the anchor is and the other end the back with the motor and auto pilot. There is advantages to shunting so I will set the boat up to do that mostly. Possibly a 180degree swiveling outboard bracket plus ability to use the auto pilot in both directions

Around 9ft solid glass sailing dinghy from around 1970s , alloy mast , mainsail rudder oars etc, can also take an outboard, in Auckland and available for pick up after lock down cleared .similiar to a seabird and in pretty good condition. Not super light though $550 Dave

Just brought the 12 m harryproa back to Auckland from taipa, nice sail over 4 days, didn’t end up shunting as I had a tiller pilot and the outboard on one end so couldn’t be bothered changing that around or going backwards. Will give it some love before next summer once things get back to normal. B8B5D75B-B434-448F-BA73-7701D7C747FE.MOV

Last couple of boats we have had we fitted the gas canister stoves, quite adequate for us and as far as I know don’t need inspections. We would spend less than $50 a year on the canisters at not much more than $1 each. We have an alcohol stove on Oryx but the gas is quicker and cheaper.

People have tried that and failed.

People have tried and failed. Don’t think its worth the risk.

Probably should do it myself. Have done one cat before. You need to start with excellent preparation and 100% removal of anti foul. The rudders were missed a little and some came off there.