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Showing results for 'Acrylic'.
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+1 for Acrylic Creations, tinted ones keep a bit of privacy but let you see out. I'd make your lowest one the same height as your cockpit seats and split the remaining gap in 2. Chuck a louver vent in the top one for air flow when on the mooring. 👌🏽
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Take the ply ones in to acrylic creations - they will make new ones for a very reasonable price...
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Linear PolyUrethane, if you go to a marine shop their garden variety 2 pot top coats are acrylic LPU's, if you want the ultimate superyacht look get Awlgrip which is polyester based. Resene light industrial do a range of LPU's which are just fine for marine use like Uracryl, cheaper too. All the major paint companies make them for industrial use as they are so superior to any other paint in certain applications. They were originally developed for aircraft which need paint that sticks, lasts and doesnt peel off at high speed!
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There's 2 kinds of LPU, acrylic and polyester, one can be polished and one cant. This is from memory so google it, but polyester is the higher gloss, longer lasting and harder paint that shouldn't be cut and polished whereas acrylic LPU's are softer more easily repairable (and cheaper) and can be cut and polished. Read the TDS to see what kind youre buying. Both types are extremely good but the polyester is the premium product and for most DIY'ers acrylics are a better option. On a scale of one to ten, oil paints being a one, single pot polyurethanes are a 4, and two part LPU's are 10
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Any recommendations for a one step acrylic window bonding agent ? I used sika on my last boat, It was a 3 step process and the 3 different components cost twice as much as the two new windows . It was also a pain in the ass process and the boat had a toxic stink for about 6 months . there are no mechanical fastenings so it needs to be primarily a bonding agent with waterproof properties
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6mm polycarbonate at least i'd expect. Acrylic lasts longer in UV, but polycarb is MUCH stronger.
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I am fitting new acrylic windows and have some sealant which is Prosil 10 from Burnsco. Would this be suitable or would something like Dowsil 795 be better? I only want to do this job once!!! Cheers. IMG_1658.HEIC
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Let me put it another way. There is absolutely no way someone could do this scrapping the sealant away from the substrate. Does the crack run deep enough to go right through the Glass cloth, or is it just the surface Paint or whatever it is? The places the cracks show are most certainly around the edges of the heavy build up areas. This certainly suggests a difference in movement of two differing components below. Are you absolutely sure the interior is Polyurathane?? It certainly looks more like Gelcoat or Flowcoat to me. I did not realise the Boat was 22yrs old. That age, it is a won
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Unfortunately the digital radars are all proprietary, so to see which MFDs are supported, you have to look on the Radar vendor's website to ascertain which MFD's will work, but only Raymarine works with Raymarine, and only Navico (Lowrance, Simrad, B&G) works with Navico. E80s are more of a portrait hole size, all the new MFD's are more landscape. Mostly I have to cover the old dash (piece of Carbon, White or Black Acrylic works well and avoids painting) and cut a new hole. The E80 chart cartridge wont fit any of the new MFD's from any Vendor. May as well sell them with the E80s
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IMO it is an old technique to through bolt the windows. Bolts are where the leaks start, and often crack acrylic windows, and sometimes toughened glass. This is because of the differences in expansion/contraction of the window compared to the frame/mounting surface. Bog to cover bolt heads is not ideal, bog is often brittle and cracks when thickly applied - as it must be to cover a bolt head. It would not need to be much flex to cause this. Modern adhesives can be really hard to remove. I've done quite a few window replacements on different types of boats. Usually I remove the sealant wi
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While we were at it, some LED strip lighting has been installed in the pelmet over the cabin windows. Turns out, its a bit bright and draws a surprising amount of current. So today I made up some dimmers - aliexpress low voltage PWM boards, mounted on a black acrylic panel. One for port, one for starboard, fore and aft circuit on each. Each panel is 50 x 45mm The green LED is a power indicator and helps find them in the dark! Problem solved.
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The screen on mine is proud of the LCD and looks to be a seperate super thin piece of acrylic or similar ?
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back to the computer. The Sistema box wasn't working out. It took up a lot of real estate and looks naff, so with a bit of spare time on my hands, I pulled it all apart, got an offcut of 5mm acrylic from the local acrylic guys (free!) and put together an enclosure that will sit in an existing recess in front of the chart table. The recess is just over 400mm long, 165mm high and 35mm deep. The new enclosure is sized to fit snug at one end and provide space to store the keyboard and mouse next to it. It is removable so it can come home for software updates etc. The RPi now has
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Once for a really badly weathered acrylic compass dome I used wet and dry sandpaper. Started with 400, worked down to 1200 (or maybe finer, it was a while back) and eventually to cutting compound and polish. Came up like new.
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I Just did that exact job, toughened glass on epoxied frames. I used Quilosa MS35 from the glue guru. https://www.glueguru.co.nz/shop/INDUSTRY/MARINE/QUILOSA+MS35+Adhesive+280ml+Cartridges.html. I've used this on quite a few boats, but mostly on acrylic windows. great results and cheaper than Sika
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Any recommend a good manufacturer / repairer. Need to look at options for dealing with one of my damaged windows.
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kiwi grip being water/acrylic paint,should soften with meths. Dont envoy you at all. 2 pot maybe acetone?? Hit it with a heavy industrial water blaster??
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They are not expensive. Acrylic Creations is who I use. Search this site, plenty of info already here.
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Fitting a ventilated window in companionway washboard
Abel Seaman replied to aardvarkash10's topic in TechTalk
I just made a box shaped shower dome using 5mm acrylic. Following research the whole thing is glued up using superglue. No problem. -
Stepping Out is getting a bit of mould from a lack of ventilation. With the heater now fitted, I want to be able to close the companionway but still get some ventilation through it. I'm proposing to cut a window into the upper washboard, fit it with 4.5mm acrylic sheet rebated into the ply on the inner and outer surface (so, two sheets of 4.5mm with an airgap between them). The outer sheet will have ventilation holes (about 25mm diameter) across the bottom of the sheet, the inner will have vents at the top. There is approx 6mm airgap between the sheets. All corners radiused to red
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Fitting a ventilated window in companionway washboard
Brien replied to aardvarkash10's topic in TechTalk
This is a useful reference on the web https://www.permabond.com/resource-center/bonding-acrylic-industrial-adhesive/ -
Fitting a ventilated window in companionway washboard
DoT replied to aardvarkash10's topic in TechTalk
I believe you can make an effective glue by "melting down" some of the acrylic waste (trimmings and shavings) with acetone. -
Fitting a ventilated window in companionway washboard
aardvarkash10 replied to aardvarkash10's topic in TechTalk
Thanks to Crew member lateral, I got a piece of 10mm acrylic that looks like it would hold back the Apocalypse, and is large enough to replace the entire upper board, which it will now do. I want to glue a lap onto the bottom of the sheet so that it overlaps the bottom washboard. I've cut a strip of the acrylic and routered its edges ready to glue on, but then I thought "what with?" I figure cyno-acrylate, any other guesses or knowledgeable comments? -
and meanwhile, the Openplotter build commences
aardvarkash10 replied to aardvarkash10's topic in TechTalk
Yeah. So is the Captain. Its been sitting to one side for about 6 months while I procrastinated over desiging and making a fancy aluminium and acrylic enclosure with vents and fans and blue LEDs and all the bollocks. Then I saw the Systeema box at the Warehouse for $4.95. More progress in 30 minutes than in six months. -
Fitting a ventilated window in companionway washboard
aardvarkash10 replied to aardvarkash10's topic in TechTalk
Redesign. Single sheet, angled smaller drillings like described and shown above, rebate half depth of the washboard, window sheet on the outside, chamfer the edge so its flush at the junction between ply and acrylic. Still fix it using MS35. Meesaged you. Cheers
