Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for 'quilosa'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • General
    • MarineTalk
    • TechTalk
    • RaceTalk
    • ShortTalk
    • My Boat
    • Crew Finder
    • Classifieds
    • Everything Else

Calendars

There are no results to display.


Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests

  1. I Just did that exact job, toughened glass on epoxied frames. I used Quilosa MS35 from the glue guru. https://www.glueguru.co.nz/shop/INDUSTRY/MARINE/QUILOSA+MS35+Adhesive+280ml+Cartridges.html. I've used this on quite a few boats, but mostly on acrylic windows. great results and cheaper than Sika
  2. At IT's suggestion, I will be Quilosa'ing my boat windows in a month or so, and will report back. Good tip re turps to remove excess while wet - check . Thanks
  3. Yep, turps on Quilosa, while wet. Sorry, should have been clearer! Once it's dry, it must be mechanically removed... And no primer, no special prep. Just clean, dry surface on the boat, and the window, and away you go..
  4. Thanks - I’ll keep away from acetone. Regarding the primer, for the Quilosa ms35 I don’t think it needs a primer, but I was going to etch the acrylic with a kitchen scourer. Is the primer needed for the Butyl tape?
  5. I would be removing potentially fragments of what I guess is rubber (butyl?) from the acrylic, and preparing the surface for adhesion to butyl tape, and Quilosa MS35. I was anticipating using acetone to clean up rubber fragments. Better to use turps? (Isn't turps a thinner? What thinner do you not recommend?)
  6. I don't use the VHB at all. The Quilosa has great initial bond, and is only workable for a few mins. I use lots of it, put the window in place, brace if needed to hold there (if its got lots of bend, for example), then use a scraper and then thinners to clean up the ooze. Small bits of timber - or matchsticks - can be inserted until the initial bond is taken, to ensure sealant thickness, then removed and the holes filled - make certain that there is lots of matchstick sticking out for removal!
  7. found these in other forums: Sikaflex MS: https://nzl.sika.com/en/46072/sealants-fillers/exterior-joints/walls-and-facades/sikaflex-ms.html Fixtech FS200: https://www.seamac.co.nz/new-products/fixtech-fs200-310ml-cartridge-black Dow Corning 795: https://www.dow.com/en-us/pdp.dowsil-795-silicone-building-sealant.01595717z.html QUILOSA MS35: https://www.glueguru.co.nz/shop/BRANDS/QUILOSA/QUILOSA+MS35+Adhesive+280ml+Cartridges.html Any preference? Maybe I won't need the bolts?
  8. Here is a link to the 24 posts talking about this... search is your friend https://crew.org.nz/forum/index.php?/search/&q=quilosa&quick=1
  9. +1 on the Quilosa MS35 - really easy to use and works well. Just over 2 cartridges to do both sides.
  10. Yep, Quilosa MS35 from the glue guru. One step, low cost, works great. A search on here will find several threads about this...
  11. Bruce Elliott put me onto modified silicon years ago (same as Quilosa). A very good sealant. You can buy it from Placemakers and possibly other hardware stores. Come in a variety of colours. I use it for pretty well any sealant application as it can be disassembled unlike some of the other polyurethane type sealants without wrecking things. It used to be called Fosroc MS but now is Sikaflex MS.
  12. Thanks for all the advice. Went for the Quilosa MS35 and have done away with the screws. Finished installing the first window today and looks good. Once everything has set and I have given it a tidy up I will post some photos. Great to be well underway on the biggest job I have on my winter list.
  13. Yep. The initial grab strength of the adhesive is pretty high, and the working time is pretty short, so it's much easier if there is two of you to position the windows. Ive done a few sets now with Quilosa MS35, and not a single leak. Its great stuff, and inexpensive. It sticks like the proverbial S.T.A.B , and don't use it in direct afternoon sun in summer, it goes off too fast! A plank down the stanchions and a couple of timer braces will work fine for the required force to hold the window temporarily, it wont need much if any with the grab strength of the product. Take plenty of thinn
  14. If you use a decent adhesive/sealant (like mentioned above, I use and recommend Quilosa MS35 from the glue guru), you can forget the frames and the screws. Fill the screw holes and paint. Stick the windows in with the adhesive, good to go.
  15. Thanks guys, I have purchased 4 tubes of Quilosa MS35, hopefully this will be enough. I am thinking of not using the damming tape around the inside edge and coving it with the quisola the next day instead. I will keep the glue 10mm back from the inside edge. My biggest reservation (having only put windows in using blackout primer in the past) is that if there are parts of the window overlap that are not covered in glue, say little air pockets, that this will show from the outside (through the tinted window). Also seems strange to not have to key the acrylic.
  16. IMO the best solution is to use Quilosa MS35 adhesive from the Glue Guru here in Auckland. No tapes required. Be careful in this heat, its initial grab is strong, will immediately hold the window in place, and it sets really fast. Windows are a 2 person job, make certain you put them on straight! I've done a few boats with it, and no leaks, easy install. No mechanical fasteners required. Oh, and its not expensive, and needs no primers, etchers or anything
  17. Bed it tape still requires mechanical fasteners. Quilosa ms35 from the glue guru works great, and is cheap. No leaks after a couple of years so far, no mechanical fasteners.
  18. Properly installed acrylic windows don't leak. Mechanical fasteners are no longer needed with modern modified silicon adhesives. In fact, its the lack of flexibility in the mechanical fasteners that CAUSE most of the leaks. There is quite a bit of difference in the thermal expansion rates of GRP and the acrylic materials, and the adhesion and flexibility of the correct adhesive is essential to a good result. Quilosa MS35 is awsome.
  19. If your going to use sealant, quilosa ms35 from the glue guru. Awesome stuff, works great.
  20. What IT said. Quilosa m35 is a great adhesive/sealant combo.
  21. Congrats on the new boat! What is she? Windows, the best sealant IMO is quilosa ms35 from the glue guru. What are the windows made from? Generally the best method is to completely remove a leaky window, clean up and re seal. Note that mostly the old method of fastening windows (through bolts) is no longer needed - the adhesive is strong enough by itself. Old windows often leaked through the bolt holes after a while and a bit of movement, so leaving them out is good! Welcome aboard!
  22. Agreed. Use quilosa M35 from the glue guru on the north shore. Great stuff! And way cheaper than the sika equivalent, with no expensive primers needed.
×
×
  • Create New...