Island Time 1,235 Posted August 12, 2014 Share Posted August 12, 2014 A good engine rebuild shop can repair pretty serious crank damage. You have to take it completely out, and to a rebuild shop (NOT just a diesel mechanic - they will pass the work off to a rebuild place anyway, and clip the ticket). They can measure it up and give you a cost of rebuild, normally with a warranty.... Once you have a quote, you can decide what to do. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dambo 44 Posted August 12, 2014 Share Posted August 12, 2014 Hi Erice, I have the wee Spencer next to you, I did feel a bit guilty the other weekend when my engine started first pop then we sailed off the mooring anyway while you were working away... On the the recommendation of the Yanmar chaps at Westhaven I took the bits of my donkey (YSE8) to these guys http://www.enginerebuilders.co.nz/ in Ponsonby. Probably not the cheapest but not horrendous and, well, as you probably heard, my donkey ticks over nicely despite my abuse. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
erice 732 Posted August 12, 2014 Author Share Posted August 12, 2014 thanks all ideas welcome have been building wooden skids, removed dodger etc for winching up under the boom and then swinging over to the floating pontoon Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tuffyluffy 76 Posted August 12, 2014 Share Posted August 12, 2014 As a guide, I just had my diesel mechanic do a full rebuild on my Volvo 3cyl and the total cost was about $8k, including parts. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Clipper 343 Posted August 12, 2014 Share Posted August 12, 2014 not a helpful comment I know, but I love outboards....... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
erice 732 Posted August 12, 2014 Author Share Posted August 12, 2014 the seller did hint i should consider and outboard... but the stern is so high got the wife to call japan, but they are on their religious obon holiday at the moment, so will have to wait a few days before i can price engines and parts from there Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Marshy 30 Posted August 12, 2014 Share Posted August 12, 2014 Having gone from an outboard on Mercenary to a Diesel on the new boat - i agree an Outboard for simplicity is great. If its broken its easy to fix or replace and easy to take home. But for cruising you really really cant beat a Diesel! Charging capacity, Grunt, Noise when motoring, and Fuel consumption are just so much better! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dambo 44 Posted August 12, 2014 Share Posted August 12, 2014 Hi Erice, I sent you a long winded reply. Re the OB idea, the high, pointy back end it problematic - this guy made it work: http://sv-ulladh-log.blogspot.co.nz/200 ... chive.html Personally I hate outboards... noisy, heavy, fuel guzzling things that ruin the lines of a good boat. I love being able to carry them into the garage and rebuild them on the bench though Quote Link to post Share on other sites
erice 732 Posted August 12, 2014 Author Share Posted August 12, 2014 thanks for pm Dambo, and the link above i hadn't fully looked through that page on the 60's havsfidra 20' the 70's storfidra 25' was originally called the havsfidra II + is basically a stretched version there's a cutaway drawing at the bottom of that page Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dagwood 57 Posted August 25, 2014 Share Posted August 25, 2014 Any progress?? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
erice 732 Posted August 25, 2014 Author Share Posted August 25, 2014 have on the boat painting it and at home trying to fix the external corrosion on the exhaust elbow seating area to deal with the missing conrod bearing, have been pricing 3 options - cheapest self repair.........head gasket, sump gasket, 1 set conrod bearings + carefully lap? the marked surfaces......$600 just for parts - import from uk, short block mitsubishi L2E industrial engine, $3000? (vetus; gearbox, head, cooling system, starter, alternator, raw water pump, fuel lift pump + fuel filter assembly to be added on - a complete new marine engine this morning had finally gotten the epoxy steel repairs, to the cooling system elbow cap seat done well enough to fill the corroded in core with water and see if any leaked through it did perhaps because of the vigorous cleaning needed to open up the corroded brass tubes core leaks would allow hot engine coolant to be pumped into the cold raw water and then fired out the exhaust just guessing on the vetus price for a new core, just under a grand?, and as not certain the old core will ever come out or how long the epoxy repairs to the elbow seat would hold hot water under pressure........ so full engine replacement is looking more + more likely check your coolant level before starting, investigate and leaks and change the coolant regularly boys + girls otherwise needlessly bad things will happen to even low use engines Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dambo 44 Posted August 25, 2014 Share Posted August 25, 2014 Epoxy goes pretty soft when heated up, so really not a long-term fix. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
erice 732 Posted August 26, 2014 Author Share Posted August 26, 2014 high temp epoxy should be no problem http://www.jbweld.com/product/j-b-highheat/ metal surfaces on a correctly working water cooling system probably don't get much over 80C Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dagwood 57 Posted August 26, 2014 Share Posted August 26, 2014 Cool - it's an interesting thread. I'm certainly looking at the prices of some of the older keelers and mulling the thought "perhaps one day" so to watch someone go through the process is great. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
erice 732 Posted September 5, 2014 Author Share Posted September 5, 2014 now waiting for a new craftsman cm2.16 engine to come from diamond diesels in the uk based on the same mitsubishi L2E engine as the vetus M2.06 in there now same base engine in many new marine engines; sole mini17 + westebeke 12C + 12D hopefully it will drop right in to the current controls + piping installation and leave me with lots of import spares like, head, injector pump + injectors, starter, alternator, water pump, raw water pump, fuel lift pump, filters, impellers, anodes etc. while waiting have cleaned up the engine bay and have been able to install access and shelves in about 50ltrs of dead space between the end of the galley and the cockpit gas bottle space Quote Link to post Share on other sites
erice 732 Posted September 16, 2014 Author Share Posted September 16, 2014 sort of finished the extra shelving now so carrying on with painting and changing the lights over to LED meanwhile diamond diesels in the uk have sent me the BOL for the ordered engine with the vessel name and an AIS tracker can watch it steaming towards nz currently heading to beruit http://www.marinetraffic.com/en/ais/hom ... :235071275 takes a looong time to track ship after main page then zoom out Quote Link to post Share on other sites
erice 732 Posted October 21, 2014 Author Share Posted October 21, 2014 still waiting on the engine so finally got around to breaking out the multimeter to try and understand the windgen + solar panel + regulator the regulator has 2 leds and on a overcast day (poor solar) with no wind (no wind gen) was showing 2 greens - good!, 1 for 'charging' and 1 for healthy battery voltage but on a sunny + windy day was showing orange and green? the green was for healthy battery voltage but why orange for charging? (turns out the top led is actually 2 leds side by side, green on left for charging + red on right for regulating. so when when too much voltage is being produced both leds come on and show as a combined orange) the 50watt solar panel checked out fine but even spinning around at top speed the rutland 503 wind gen had no output....the rotor also wobbling inside the stator, so took it, and the mast, down to fault-find and maybe change the bearings inside was full of evil black dust but though gritty the bearings weren't worn, however the plastic bearing housing was hugely over-sized, meaning the bearings had been turning inside their plastic housing. shimmed it all snug again with bits of beer can and reassembled but still no output.... at a guess the bearings got dry? the outer surfaces started turning, which quickly wore the plastic housing seats, making the fan wobble, which allowed the fore+aft rotating magnets to eat into the fixed stator windings, (the evil black dust), shorting them and killing any output??? will have to go back and check, but so far i'm very happy that the 50watt solar panel has been performing so well and unhappy with the too-many moving parts wind gen. so instead of replacing the wind gen for $500? i may just put another silent + trouble-free 50w panel up and plumb that into the windgen side of the regulator back of the boat looking a lot cleaner now too Quote Link to post Share on other sites
erice 732 Posted November 20, 2014 Author Share Posted November 20, 2014 engine now here and sitting in the back of the car hoping to get it onto the boat this month but the recent mission has been to set up an old windows xp netbook on the boat as better, faster plotter than the clunky, slow 20yo furuno opencpn software is on the computer and have loaded it with digital versions of all the nz charts released by linz BUT, have not been able to get NMEA data from the GPS to computer via serial to usb converter - NMEA is good as it supplies gps position to the DSC VHF - serial to usb converter driver installed, device manager shows it com6, baud rate 4800 - opencpn connection created at com6, baud rate 4800 net suggests the 2 NMEA wires should connect to pin 9(gnd) and pin 2(rx) but have tried all possible connections with no success. opencpn nmea debugging never showing anything received guess next step is to use device manager to lower the com port buffers... open to other suggestions... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Island Time 1,235 Posted November 20, 2014 Share Posted November 20, 2014 I don't know where you got pin 9 from?? Normal is 2,3, and 5; RS-232 (regular PC “COM port”) The default standard for serial port on computers is RS-232. It uses 3-wires consisting of a transmit signal “TD” (pin 3 of the DB9 connector from the computer perspective), a receive signal “RD” (pin 2 of the DB9 connector), and a signal ground “SG” (pin 5 of the DB9 connector). I'm off to Wellington on a flight now, but if you can't sort it from there, post back or give me a ring and I'll help you sort it. Matt, 0221539176 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
erice 732 Posted November 20, 2014 Author Share Posted November 20, 2014 yes my bad, pin 5 not 9 have a good trip;o) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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