Rubber seals for window

[aranzuglia 0]

Hi there,

 

I'm thinking in removing the window acrylics currently attached with screws, and put new acrylics with rubber seals. Is there anyone with previous experience on it? Any tips?

 

Maybe I can reuse the acrylics if I can polish them or similar.

 

I'm not even able to find a place where to buy them, I've asked many companies with no luck.

 

This is similar to what I have:

 

And this is similar to what I would like:

 

Thanks

 

[marinheiro 352]

in days gone by the rubber sealing strip was called Claytonrite, used by most fizz boat and tráiler sailer (and caravan) manufacturers. One problem is the window could pop out under pressure ie a decent wave landing on it or in the case of a TS, a knock down.

Not sure who supplies it these days, good places to try would be

http://www.rubbermark.co.nz/ or

http://www.retwine.co.nz/index.php

[1paulg 17]

 

Usually these days with acrylic windows they fit into a recess . Using a bed of marine sealant - there are several types ( Sika have one product) , it should seal and secure the window adequately to not have to use screws . Modern sealants are very strong and using screws is likely to cause stress points in the acrylic .

[aranzuglia 0]

Thank you both. Actually a neighbour told me the same thing about the pressure coming from important waves. Even if they don't look great he recommended to leave them as they are.

 

I already contacted Rubber Mark, will try with Reid & Twiname at least to check what they have.

 

In our boat there is a recess for the windows, something I didn't realize when I first posted the question here. Since there haven't been water leakages from the windows I would not touch them for now.

 

Finally, is there a good way to remove scratches on the acrylics?

 

Regards

[ScottiE 174]

I've had a few conversations with guys from Sika and they all agree that the screws are no longer needed. 

There are details about where some recommend that you paint a small strip on the outside of the panel to reduce UV exposure on the sealant, but one guy I spoke to suggested that the sealant should last at least circa 20years no problem and in anycase, redoing this detail after say 15 years is hardly difficult. 

 

 

 

I have two windows that I'll be redoing in this way.  30mins to remove, 30mins to prep. the boat surface, 30mins to prep and clean the pane, 60mins to set up and re-fit the pane - both done by avo smoko!  My biggest question is what do I do about the holes in the window pane? Or do I resign myself to getting new ones made - seems a waste.

 

For a dedicated fitted seal try trim-lok distributed in UES

[1paulg 17]

Scottie - I am in the process of redoing some of mine - you will find the screw holes are on top of the bed of sealant and it will push up into the holes as you press the panel into place - then just finish off by carefully wiping the excess with a wet rag or finger and it seals the hole quite nicely and doesn't look out of place . You are welcome to come and have a look at the one I have done (which will be followed by a few more !) if you want to see how it comes out.

[aranzuglia 0]

At least in my case, the windows have so many scratches on them that I prefer to get new ones.

 

Then my question would be how to cover the holes in the fibreglass (from the inside).

 

What kind of Sika can do the glueing job? I have Sika 291, but I guess it's a sealant and not a glue. And also, I did remove the bolts from one of the windows last weekend and then found out that the acrylic is impossible to remove, any suggestion there? Other than pushing hard from the interior

 

Cheers

[ScottiE 174]

Scottie - I am in the process of redoing some of mine - you will find the screw holes are on top of the bed of sealant and it will push up into the holes as you press the panel into place - then just finish off by carefully wiping the excess with a wet rag or finger and it seals the hole quite nicely and doesn't look out of place . You are welcome to come and have a look at the one I have done (which will be followed by a few more !) if you want to see how it comes out.

Yeh - I'd like to take you up on that - presumably you're no longer in Alacati?!?

 

aranzuglia - I thought so too for a few weeks until I youtube a few different examples.  whatever the original sealant will still have significant adhesion to both the hull and the window.  You have to break that bond.  I sharpened a 1" putty knife slightly and then "tapped" it with a mallet (one very still evening when the moon was high and the tide was bright) between the hull and sealant.  There was a bit of rot in the plinth surround timber that was glued onto the main hull laminate and so I was expecting to repair works anyway.  In the end that will amount to very little.  In your case, given you are discarding the window I would try and break the bond with the window pane.  It'll take a wee while but once you get a reasonable amount done in one corner you should be able to "peel" the pane off.  If you start out accepting that there will be quite a bit of damage to repair and you just end up with just a bit then you'll tap that knife just a little harder!

[Freedom GBE 27]

Not as easy as it looks .

 

From my limited experience some of the corners are very hard to get unstuck on the old windows and it is easy to break a corner.

 

Getting new ones made exactly the same size and shape is near impossible.

 

When gluing the new (nearly the same shape window) don't force it in or else it will simply pop out in the corners the first time you go sailing.

[1paulg 17]

Am sure there are many more qualified than me to comment but this is how I did my first one....break the seal with a Stanley knife blade being careful to just cut the sealant , push the window up from inside peeling it away , clean up both surfaces ( window and recess ) , mask around the window ( important as it is very easy to smudge and make a mess with the sealant. Get a self adhesive rubber sealant strip ( like a fridge seal) cut in half so is only quite thin then put on the hig edge of the recess to make a dam for the sealant , put a good line of sealant in the recess then press the window in place - the rubber dam will take the initial weight of the window until the sealant swells up with the downward pressure on the window - needs to be a good seal all the way around - wipe of excess with wet finger or wet rag to get a nice finish on the outside edge.Leave for 24 hours minimum then check the seal is complete all the way around.

The sealant I used was uv stable silicon but offhand can't remember the exact type but can find out but any shop should be able to advise.

 

Hope this sounds logical .

Scottie sent a pm

[JK 28]

For removing the old silicone, after the Stanley knife part, I used Selleys Silicone Remover from Bunnings/Mitre 10 or similar. Apply the gel with a cheap brush, leave for an hour or so & then it pretty much wiped off, then wiped over with a rag soaked in thinners.