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Why cant we buy this Antifoul


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In reality Wheels, there's no chance I'l be able to use it but it is worth thinking about it as an option becasue I won't get access to the product.  However, Having read the appl. manual - wouldn't be phased by even in the future and so its worthy of discussion at least for some recreational situations.  As technology advances this product type (polymers) will continue to get more and more sophisticated - and that's a comment from a US manufacturer who utilises low friction polymers in his products - reckons they are only just starting to get real advances to market.

 

Essentially what we are saying is that to keep your hull clear, on water maintenance of your hull needs to be frequent.  In the river I would try to mop the ultra antifoul every two weeks - in the winter that's 'tough' (in the summer I could do it after work while still light - not keen to jump into the water at night in winter on my own!) and so it might go out to 4 weeks which would allow slime to start to form.

 

I wonder then how long it will be before the effective speed drops to, say 5kts, in which case you'd think that it might be a real viable option for river moored boats.  And if you are likely to run the boat every one or two weeks then it would seem also to be a viable proposition when you consider the slip costs most now endure.

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I had great success with Hempels Mille Dynamic for alluminium, went to buy it again only to be told they had to reapply for certification, "which could take up to 5 years"!!!!

 

What do you currently use for aluminium? any good? 

Options with alloy are pretty limited hence I'm keen to know what others are using and if theyre any good. Its a rare hull material for a keeler hence not alot of options

I've been using Petite Vivid and its been OK but nothing to write home about

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Petite and Trilux are the two most common names in the Aluminium Ant-foul world. But both need to be applied over a barrier coat, because both have a form of copper in them. It's different to Copper Oxide though.
 

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when copper coat has reached the end of its life 8/10 yrs?do youhave to start process all over again by going back to bare hull?

 

checked out wax on plate this morning and a little failure,wax has gone so presume we did not get a bond between wax and plate?

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you can apply new coppercoat over old just sand clean first

I still think it is the best option once you consider the longer term and if you plan to scrub regularly its ideal as scrubbing seems to kill most other antifouls.very quickly

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checked out wax on plate this morning and a little failure,wax has gone so presume we did not get a bond between wax and plate?

 

Wax won't work.

There are two issues with getting a coating to adhere to a substrate. First is thermal expansion rate. If the substrate expands and contracts with temperature at a different rate to the coating, the Coating will fail. Wax becomes harder and brittle as it gets colder.

The other is the Keying/Adhesion to the Substrate. A coating has to be able to adhere and this is usually done by the coating being able to seep onto microscopic irregularities on a surface. Hence why we usually need to sand to create markings the paint can grab and lock to called "keying". Wax will not do that.

Another part of adhesion is chemical adhesion, This is when the coating chemically melds into the layer beneath and the two surfaces become one. Really only happens when you are painting a subsequent coat onto another coating that has not fully cured or still wet even. Wax will not do that either.

 

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