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Magic 25... Trapeze line replacement


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This weeks entertainment is replacing the 8 trapeze lines on a Magic 25

 

The mast was lowered today and I had my first look at the existing lines. All four trapeze lines connect to a ring with one short line connecting everything to the mast.

 

So...

New trapeze lines are easy enough to splice, using 4mm dyneema.

Should they be luggage tagged to the ring?

 

The short length connecting to the mast is currently a bit of a mess. It is held to the T-ball shroud end with a welded half shackle and multiple turns/knots/loops... Scissors were involved in the removal!

 

Any tips would be appreciated as I will be hanging off the new lines in a couple of weeks and I don't like swimming

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Use 6 mm dynice ( nee dynex) for the connection tee ball to jesus ring. Luggage tag to the ring and the tee ball before inserting into the mast

Thanks Ed

 

I think I have my head around this...

 

Luggage tag around the tee ball end, using the welded half shackle to stop it from sliding down?

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Try and get a SK78, tad more strength and less stretch. A DM20 would be even better but that could be hard to find in most places still.

 

Dynice is old school now so a lower grade.... but it will still work.

Possibly restricted to what the yacht club has in stock and for trapeze line stretch isn't really a problem... Fitting into the trapeze harness and acting like a 20 year old is more concerning (turning 49 next month and the body isn't as flexible as it once was)

 

Main concern is the knot/splice required at the hounds but hopefully Ed can take a photo of the detail tomorrow

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Thanks KM but the skipper/owner/bloke who must be happy even though he never uses the trapeze thinks that the welded eye isn't up to the job of keeping four blokes from going swimming.

 

At this stage my thoughts are to use 6mm as suggested by ed, wrap this around the tee fitting similar to the vang wrapping around a carbon boom. First time round goes through the welded eye, second rests above the welded eye (I think there is enough room between the mast and tee fitting), repeat going back down, then half hitch both ends around the tee fitting to eliminate movement and finish with a splice.

 

I might do a mock up and post a photo... See below

image.jpeg

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My 930 mast stays up due to one of those very saddles and 2 small rivets, which have to be weaker than weld.

 

But I know what he means, things do suddenly look way to small when you look up and it is proportional to the amount hanging off it.

As one of the blokes with an aversion to swimming, I think the saddle looks too small

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Never seen one of the stainless fittings break.

Line might look a little small, but remember these are pieces of line that are inspected regularly, like 3 times a year, and you would expect to have to change at the same frequency you would replace spinnaker sheets for example, every couple of years.

 

As for stretch in the lines, its immaterial compared to the flex in the mast

20160126_172229.jpg

20160126_174737.jpg

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What we did on High-n-Fibre was take a bit of 8mm covered (to help prevent chaff) spectra, poke it in through the hole left above at the t-bar once it is in, right through the mast and out the other side, through the hole on the top of the other t-bar fitting. We then tied a stopper knot in the end through the mast and splice a ring on the other end about a meter down. Repeat for the other side. Simple, light and strong.

 

Ed's right about the fact that these fittings are inspected often due to the mast be dropped for trailering, meaning things don't have to be the "perfect, permanent solution."

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