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What anti fouling to use


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Have been stripping the antifouling off back to the glass not sure what to put back on .The boat will be going to Keri Keri as I am moving up there. Has anyone tried copper coat up there I know there are mixed feelings about it or should we just go for a hard antifouling or soft

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Mate - check out this thread.

http://crew.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic/13257-a-not-anti-fouling-anti-fouling/page-5?do=findComment&comment=169427

 

This is just the latest in at least half a dozen on the topic.

 

Search antifouling in the Tech forum and you'll see what I mean.

 

Bit in summary - I think that most would agree that none of us really knows what works well where!

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Dumb question but needs to be asked.

Does colour have any effect as far certain mooring areas go?managed to get 24 months using no 10 black but this year used no 10 red and 9 months needs doing again,admittedly tamiki river has been warmer this year.

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Tried white,red,grey, blue but a few years ago noticed my neighbours boat which had black anti foul had noticeably less growth / slime. Changed to black and it's true. Much less fouling. Something to do with light ? Who knows ! Maybe formula improved.. 

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bugger number 10 off the market due to additives,was $199. now they tried to sell me vivid for $325 ended up with altex coastal copper based for $175,will have to wait and see how it goes,they still talk about lasting 18 months,just could not bring myself to justify the difference in price from number 10 to vivid.But they did say black seems to last longer than any other colour.

At least the 1 inch anode is still $24

Discovered by smearing a small amount of under water grease on paddle wheel no growth in 2 months so what you say about smearing prop shaft instead if antifoul?

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I tried grease (old used stuff). on my prop and shaft when I was poor and Desperate. It was ok on the shaft but hopeless on the prop. I smeared more on after each trip. I wouldn't use it now as it is ptobabiy more toxic than anything else.

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I have used Warpaint for the past 10 years. Previously used Altex #5 which I was applying with roller. 

I would get some barnacle/growths with the Altex but usually just have to deal with the slime with the Warpaint.

Biggest difference gained was by changing application to getting it professionally sprayed, much better endurance with just having to give a 6 monthly waterblast and will last 2-3 years.

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So we're hauling out this weekend for a few months of work and to paint the bum, it's about 18 months since the last haul and it's covered in barnacles - Last paint was 3 coats of Awlcraft. 

 

The boat sits up Whangarei marina in the river for 9-10 months per year, Does anyone have any better options/methods for a mainly stationary river boat? I'm hearing from a few that 1-2 coats of hard then 2-3 coats of ablative may get us to 18 months with much less fouling

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It's better to apply extra coats of soft, rather than mix different types of AF's.
Hard AF's are not as good as soft. They are designed for high speed craft and racing yachts that the racer would clean before each race. That is OK for those kind of situations, but for those that have slower Keelers and the boat sits for a lot of the year before a Summer Season of boating and would like to get 12/24 or maybe even 36months between hauls, then the hard just won't do it. 
There is little point in putting hard under a soft. It certainly will not enhance the protection from the soft.
Softs work by the layer in contact with the water washing away in some controlled way. Thus, the growth should fall away when the boat sails and this exposes a fresh surface of AF rich in Biocide and copper compound. Because it wears away from water movement, a boat sitting in any form of decent tidal current will also have the surface wear away. So an extra coat should always be applied if in that situation. If the boat is used a lot, then an extra coat may be best also. Extra coats around any area's that have high wash/turbulance such as all leading edges is essential. The more coats, the better the long term performance with any of the softs.
BUT PLEASE NOTE: If the boat is sitting, the Hull will get dirty. DO NOT expect the surface to remain clean. It ONLY CLEANS when the boat is underway.
If you want clean while sitting in the Marina, then the only other type is self ablatives. This works by a chemical reaction that causes the surface to self erode and fall away. Great for in a Marina with no tidal flow of significance and if the boat is sitting for a long period of the year, with a short duration of use. Usually the most expensive AF and it only lasts 12months. Usually best to coat before Summer season, and allow it to keep the hull clean over winter. It's a coating that requires a specific coat depth to ensure it lasts the full 12months.
 

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We get a decent brackish water flow with the river but fouling really took off in the past 4 months with barnacle growth that's solid to the hull and not moving away without a scraper.

 

May just chuck an extra coat or 2 of Awlcraft

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