Murky 1 Posted July 5, 2009 Share Posted July 5, 2009 Now ya talking SJB, that's yachty porn all right. Any positives/negatives from the likes of KM? I guess if the Volvo boats are using them, that is an answer in itself. Link to post Share on other sites
SloopJohnB 323 Posted July 5, 2009 Share Posted July 5, 2009 I noticed that when I went out on Beau Geste, everything was on loops and bones. The jib sheets went thru rings that where on ring barber haulers. All the blocks where on loops & bones, not alot of hard attachments. Photos via the phone. Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted July 6, 2009 Share Posted July 6, 2009 We have this set up on wired, work really well, infact most of the 50's use them in nz and oz. Last longer than blocks and cheaper to replace. (The rings to callopose sometimes maybe like once/twice a year) but these are highly loaded. Go down and have a look if you want to have a closer look. Use low friction rings Puma did the vang this way. I cann;t find photos of her setup at the moment. Similar to this [attachment=0]Rings.jpg[/attachment] http://www.sailingworld.com/sailing-gea ... 72086.html Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted July 6, 2009 Share Posted July 6, 2009 Those rings can be bloody good. We recently did a boat set worth along with a pile of soft shackles (dyneema rope shackle replacement things). Strangely they were form a cruising yacht rather than a racer. Link to post Share on other sites
rigger 47 Posted July 6, 2009 Share Posted July 6, 2009 I find it interesting that those low friction rings are so much like the old 'bulleyes' we used in various places on several square riggers, they were made of Lignum Vitae and stropped with a line similar to how one of the low friction rings is set up. New materials applied to an old fitting Link to post Share on other sites
SloopJohnB 323 Posted July 6, 2009 Share Posted July 6, 2009 And thats modern technology for you rigger. A wheel is still a wheel, but we have come along way since Mr Wheel invented that round thing. Link to post Share on other sites
rigger 47 Posted July 6, 2009 Share Posted July 6, 2009 Very true SJB, a bit like how a prod can be likened to a flying Jiboom that would get deployed when needing to fly the sail and housed when not needed to prevent damage in heavy weather or when berthing Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted July 6, 2009 Share Posted July 6, 2009 Or those funny old sails used by Mullet boats, and others, way back in the 1800's that are now called Gennakers and Code O's Link to post Share on other sites
samin 0 Posted July 7, 2009 Share Posted July 7, 2009 I had a Ronstan Orbit block fail rather dramatically at the weekend. Just wondering what other peoples experience with these blocks has been like. I have a few of them on the boat including one on the back stay I have a lot of series 40 and 55 Ronstan Orbit blocks on my boat and put them thru there paces, never had an issue with them, Running Back Stays, Mainsheet, Kite sheets, Jib Sheets, Traveller the whole lot. I think any block in the top of a cascade needs to be a high load block, not a lightweight BB block! Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted July 7, 2009 Share Posted July 7, 2009 Agree with Samin. Many of the Ronstan Hi loads look just like their low loads. The loads can be a long way apart. Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted July 7, 2009 Share Posted July 7, 2009 We make that type of thimble/bulleye rings. if you want any give me (Russell) a call 09 476 4552 we have stainless and aluminium versions of varying sizes. Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted July 7, 2009 Share Posted July 7, 2009 Sorry should have added. we have just put them all over Taeping. They are great and most times lighter and more reliable than a turning block. I am also just kitting out my 12 skiff vang with these as a trial. I have also just carboned one onto the end of the prod. I can now get the tackline to the end of the pole. happy days to you all. Link to post Share on other sites
MrWolf 0 Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 We make that type of thimble/bulleye rings. if you want any give me (Russell) a call 06 476 4552 we have stainless and aluminium versions of varying sizes. That isn't your phone number you plonker unless you live in the Hawkes Bay ! Perhaps it is the advertising gods getting you for a blatant plug on Crew.org without paying ! Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 oops 09 476 4552 Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted May 26, 2010 Share Posted May 26, 2010 I had a Ronstan Orbit block fail rather dramatically at the weekend. Just wondering what other peoples experience with these blocks has been like. I have a few of them on the boat including one on the back stay Yes at Easter a Crewer had orbit 70 Series failure. Knot massive but more then enough to call a write off. For those that can't remember it gusted almost to 3kts at some stages over that weekend. Said Crewers boat is looked after better than I do my kids so as ugly has he maybe that is only cosmetic rather than structural. Ronstan tried to say it was being overloaded even though the boat is inside, a little, their published specs. But they have come to the party after some threats. All I have to do now is get the frecking thing. The dude who has it is about as easy to get hold of as a Yeti. Been there 5 times now and he's never at frecking work. Grrrrrrrrrr.......... Twas on the mainsheet. Thread found after googling FSE Robline and failure..... another story all together. Sadly it looks like another case of bullshite marketing and the creative use of rope break load numbers, along with a splash of the user knot understanding what numbers mean what. SWL or WLL mean Safe working load and Working load limit and are published for a reason people. If a rope says it'll break at XXXkg it doesn't mean you can use it at a load equal to break load less 5%, as this dude has just found out Guessing he's just had around a 3K 'learning experience'. Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted May 26, 2010 Share Posted May 26, 2010 If your boat sits alongside most of the time, then Ronstan is the stuff, but if you want to sail then HARKEN never ever let me down, and I ain't even gonna say YET nothing but the best for my girl Link to post Share on other sites
Murky 1 Posted May 26, 2010 Share Posted May 26, 2010 Price differential is a lot less than it used to be in the old days when having Harken gear on your boat meant going on a trip to the States and coming back with "used boat parts" in your luggage. Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted May 26, 2010 Share Posted May 26, 2010 Broken just about the same of both. I select fittings for the job they have to do as 1st criteria, who's selling it as 2nd as a just in case it goes bad. Whatever brand name is written on it is totally irrelevant and to a smaller degree so is price. No point paying $1 and breaking every time you go for a yacht. Buying on brand alone can often (and increasing in places) mean you pay a pile more for something someone else makes better and sells cheaper. Hard case really. In these times of bigger better flasher most of the bits I've had to replace has been the newer gear even if a fair few years old. Most of the stuff I haven't looks like it is quite likely the original gear, now 26 yo. Most is certianly from that vintage. Makes one wonder if all these new 'improved performance' bits and bobs are all just in the mind of the marketing dept. I do genuinely believe a lot of the failures we see in alsorts of gear is purely due to lack of testing before letting it free into the market place. Computer model the crap out of anything and a bad gybe will still blow it into little pieces. Link to post Share on other sites
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