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Martin breaker setup for prod


Absolution

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I want to change the gennaker tack lines on Fineline over to a martin breaker system to make the drops easier. That's right Hans, we have caught a lot of fish with that fractional genni!

 

I need to find some reasonably priced trigger snap shackles to do this. Any recommendations on a good source for these? I know there are some cheap no-name ones around but I'm not sure about the quality.

 

Also, any tips on the best way to setup the release line for the martin breaker. I've never actually seen one in action so it would be good to figure out the best way to do it before I dive in.

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Go check out the one on second nature. I set it up before the last coastal and Sharpy says it works a minter... Just needs a good trigger snap shackle - Gibb or Tylaska.

 

A small note here, Dont cheap out on the snap shackle, because if it doesnt pop you end up hanging the gennaker by the thin martin breaker and the drop goes really really really pear shaped!

Also make sure the martin breaker is either a piece of string that will break if the serious load comes on, or it has a weak link in it incase the snap shackle doesnt open so you dont pull fittings out of the deck or load the whole tack by the martin breaker...

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Ran these on the V5, brilliant if you have a prod as mostly you cant get out there to ping it and blowing the sheet is never as clean and quick in presure.

 

Most boats in big pressure you have trouble getting the gear down at the end of a ride, but with a martinbreaker and doing a letterbox drop you can always get it under control.

 

But we had grunty 3mm? spectra inner for the tripline, well tied off so when you blow the tack the breaker goes for sure, cos if it doesnt it goes real ugly. Just ask a certain x ginga bowman what happens if you get the tripline through the snap, and you go forward in 30+knts of air. In went the snout, he was pulled out of the wave he was body surfing by the guys on the rail, and his sunnies were later found tangled in the danbouy on the stern.

 

We called it a FOTism

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just walk out to the end of the prod with a spike, alternatively use a shotgun.

 

 

we run tylaska snap shackles (most of the crew work at southern/rig pro). have an aluminium cone with a hole through it length ways that gets pulled into the trigger. never had it not go when it needs to go. also use a plastic ball to stop it falling away and tangling up.

 

on 3mm dynex tied to stem fitting on bow.

 

cone then shackle then ball then about length of prod plus a bit. good to disconnect when running code 0 so the furler drum doesn't go flapping around n smash someone.

 

 

it is top secret technology so don't tell anyone

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Just ask a certain x ginga bowman what happens if you get the tripline through the snap, and you go forward in 30+knts of air. In went the snout, he was pulled out of the wave he was body surfing by the guys on the rail, and his sunnies were later found tangled in the danbouy on the stern.

 

We called it a FOTism

 

you need to start running nonstop video filming on TVS!

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More education required for this dumbarse.. What's a Martin breaker and how do you use it to drop a genniker? I understand how snap shackles work that can release under load with spikes, but I don't know about this Martin Breaker stuff. If anyone can be bothered, I'd love to hear about them! Ta.

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Basically a short, fixed-length line running through the trigger of the snapshackle on the tackline, Smithy.

 

So in a drop, you run the tackline, the martinbreaker pulls up short and automatically trips your snapshackle and releases the tack without needing anyone to go out to the end of the prod (obviously you need to also be running the halyard and gathering in the gennaker via the spare sheet or a retrieval line as you would normally).

 

Some of the posts above have good detail (e.g. col j's cone idea) and will probably make more sense now you know the general principle. :thumbup:

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also if its not a retracting prod you have a retrieval cord for the tack line cos it will probably end up either at the end of the prod or dragging in the tide. saves a balancing act or getting the boat hook out.

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the one on second nature sorts out the retrieval also. the end of the tripline through the snapshackle is tied onto the forestay fitting. easy to get to and get the tackline back.

 

one thing that can be a problem is when hooking the tack on and getting it to the end of the prod in the hoist you have to make sure it dosent trip itself in the process.

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Slightly related question.

Does anyone else have problems occasionally with the standard snapshackles catching in the rigging somehow and pulling the string release on the spin sheet?

We've only had it 2 or 3 times in a few years on the hoist, but it's a bit of fun getting it sorted.

The first thought is it wasn't connected properly, but then when I look at it as I'm re-attaching, the release mechanism is all out of shape.

Someone was talking awhile ago about using rope loops with plastic balls or something as an alternative.

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Slightly related question.

Does anyone else have problems occasionally with the standard snapshackles catching in the rigging somehow and pulling the string release on the spin sheet?

We've only had it 2 or 3 times in a few years on the hoist, but it's a bit of fun getting it sorted.

The first thought is it wasn't connected properly, but then when I look at it as I'm re-attaching, the release mechanism is all out of shape.

Someone was talking awhile ago about using rope loops with plastic balls or something as an alternative.

 

He had that happen a lot so changed to Gibb Clips. It solves that problem 100%

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Basically a short, fixed-length line running through the trigger of the snapshackle on the tackline, Smithy.

 

So in a drop, you run the tackline, the martinbreaker pulls up short and automatically trips your snapshackle and releases the tack without needing anyone to go out to the end of the prod (obviously you need to also be running the halyard and gathering in the gennaker via the spare sheet or a retrieval line as you would normally).

 

Some of the posts above have good detail (e.g. col j's cone idea) and will probably make more sense now you know the general principle. :thumbup:

 

Got it 100% now. Thanks Murky. Simple when you think about it. Yes, you would want to make sure that the tack was well in on the hoist wouldn't you? Otherwise, you hoist it and the tack gets pinged straight away. Not a good look!

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had pins on piston shackles get bent around locking them in the open position on pahi during a coastal where we lost by about 10 mins to playbuoy....lost the chute 4 times that race. they were just opening themselves in the shakes. gibb is good. tylaska is lighter. a bit of sparky tape seals the deal

 

also be careful of the snap shackles with the rings on the piston. these can slowly bend out of shape a bit then the little sharp bit can slice a genoa or kite.

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Any Recommendations on best Vendor to get a tylaska from?

 

Hoping to get a Martin Breaker set up for this weekend...and don't quite have all the technology in place yet.

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Note that snap shackles have 2 major types:

side opening or top opening = basically where they hinge.

 

One is designed more for halyards, the other more for sheets.

See the hardware vendors sites.

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Any Recommendations on best Vendor to get a tylaska from?

 

Hoping to get a Martin Breaker set up for this weekend...and don't quite have all the technology in place yet.

 

Are you running a prod now Toles? Go see the boys at Harken, although the T5 is the smallest and will prob make your eyes water a little bit!

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