Jump to content

Teak


Recommended Posts

I have a bit of a project I'm about to start, teak decks.  They are vacuum bagged and glued onto deck so no fasteners.  

 

The issue is the caulking is failing and pulling out in places.  Any advice / tools used appreciated.  I think removing all the caulking while a bigger job would be the best approach?  Or can I just do the bits where it's coming out.  The other issue is the caulking is proud of the teak in places where teak has worn.  

 

So I'm thinking:

 

- remove caulking using renovator

- edge manual sand to remove any caulking 

- clean

- recaulk

- sand

- teak pretect

 

Thoughts, advice appreciated cheers

 

Southernman. 

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

If the caulking compound is still reasonably sound ie not rock hard and still attached just leave it and repair the sections that need replacing.

Take a sharp small hand plane and run it over the ridged compound to flatten it off also a new Tajima styled knife blade laid flat will do the job.

Avoid sanding the teak as that is just a waste of teak.

Fien do a 4mm and 5mm caulking removal blade not cheap and there is the reef hook but in reality a sharp knife to the rebated sides and a screwdriver work equally as well.

Remember to degrease the cleaned out and sanded seams with MEK or similar and prime with epoxy sealer before re caulking .

Do not become a slave to topical teak products.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Had a further look this afternoon, the main area I'm starting on is the rear boarding platform and in one area where you stand all the time the teak is actually work out to a point where the grove for the caulking compound is probably only 1mm deep, I'm guessing this means I need to router a new deeper grove and then sand the area flat?  

Link to post
Share on other sites

you should get a small laminate router with a 4 or 5mm cutting bit.

get a scrap of timber with a straight edge that you can gently nail down with furniture brads

the trick is to set the depth to about 3mm, the hardest part is to work out the offset from the straight edge to the cutting blade.

then run the router along the straight edge and job done

mask up apply sika primer then sika.

when set just run a sharp blade along to remove excess then a gentle sand

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

What Native said, re-groove and get new straight sharp edges and lines and a greater area of bonding.

 

When using sharp tools make sure you work with the grain of the timber or you will dig holes to hell.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Router the existing grooves out cleanly. You could scrape them but that will mean harder work for a far less quality finish.

 

You can use Sika to refill but make sure you prime very well and follow the process to the letter.

 

Or you could use what the Pros do which is TDS SIS440. That doesn't need a primer nor the fussy process Sika requires.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...