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Side windows yes to tinted. Just a nicer look i think too from the outside.
In the launch (Darn can i say that word here) - clear in the front, tinted is a bugger to see out of at night when driving inside.

Or on the  Smoke wagon the windows are non existent (Or one could say heavily tinted white fibreglass colour)... If you go downstairs on it, your not there for the view and dont wanna spend too long!

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11 hours ago, Swartch said:

If your going to tint the Acrylic just make sure the film is compatible otherwise your going to end up in a world of hurt!! Bubbling and pealing within a very short space of time.

My thought's is tinted window's are better due to the privacy and heat reduction benefits. (I'm a window tinter by trade) and would add a film on my own boat in the future. Glass is so so much easier though.

Ok. So is there a way to identify if the tint is comparable with the acrylic or not, it should say on the packaging? Put tint on after windows are fitted or prior to?

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Most major manufacturers have a safe product to use, looking at my sample books they may have changed to using clear only which will make it more difficult. I would suggest calling a few of the suppliers and asking what they have. I personally wouldn't use any of the cheap products from Repco, Supercheap and online as you really don't know what your getting. As for install it depends on how they are mounted ie: from the inside in which case it doesn't matter and from the outside you will need to leave a clear area around the edge for the adhesive to bond.

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23 hours ago, Black Panther said:

D2 what do you use for fitting deck hardware these days?

4200 mostly.  I used to like the old polysulphide but it seems to have gone out of favour.

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5 minutes ago, Island Time said:

Bed it tape for deck hardware. Works great, never sets, and is removable and waterproof.

Is there a specific tape you use? Can be sourced in NZ? I also have some deck hardware I want to re seal.

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The screws besides being a source of leaks also are stress points when the hull flexes and will often end up starting cracks in the acrylic -if you have a good bed of sealant there is no need for the screws although a couple to keep the window in place and lined up while the sealant cures can be a good idea - screws to be removed in and filled in after .

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9 hours ago, Tamure said:

Head to the plumbing supplies, grey butyl tape aplenty!

There are lots of versions. They can be very different. You may be able to source something similar, and it may or may not work as well.

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Bed it tape is not just butyl:

“ Please be aware however that Bed-It Tape is not a "butyl tape" it is a hybrid product with butyl in the mix. We only use the term "butyl" because many folks are aware of that consistency wise.. Bed-It Tape was formulated by Compass Marine Inc. in partnership our manufacturers lab. “

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Thanks for all the advice. Went for the Quilosa MS35 and have done away with the screws. Finished installing the first window today and looks good. Once everything has set and I have given it a tidy up I will post some photos. 

Great to be well underway on the biggest job I have on my winter list.

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I have attached some before and after photos of my window replacement incase anyone is interested. Once again I appreciate all the great advice I got from this forum which was a big part of the job going well. Really pleased with the result, it was a very rewarding experience 👍

IMG_1658 2.jpeg

IMG_1720.jpeg

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Bruce Elliott put me onto modified silicon years ago (same as Quilosa). A very good sealant.

You can buy it from Placemakers and possibly other hardware stores. Come in a variety of colours. I use it for pretty well any sealant application as it can be disassembled unlike some of the other polyurethane type sealants without wrecking things.

It used to be called Fosroc MS but now is Sikaflex MS.

image.png.d49a092a7d5c860b26afc87d0bd727d1.png

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