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Clunks... What's going on here?


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Starting to like the idea of 1000Ah of 48V Li and a DC motor slapped on the top of the saildrive...

Something big that require revs / centrifugal force is the prop, and one blade sticking will obviously cause balance issues. I actually wondered if you had a bucket wrapped on the prop. If it was a sh

The thing is with Camshaft, Cranks, Chains, Cogs etc etc and any other solid mechanical timed mechanisms, if they fail in anyway, the issue is not intermittent. They all cause major and even catastrop

8 hours ago, wheels said:

I said check oil level in a much earlier post. Too much oil in the Box can cause big problems. The box will overheat badly and that can then cause damage to the clutch cones. Although I have never seen an engine do this before, I wouldn't say it can't. Maybe if the box is getting too hot, it is causing something weird to happen with the clutch grabbing. I assume it has the official Volvo Oil in the box. If it is some poorer quality and it is getting outside it's comfort range, the Oil may not be doing the lubricating job it needs to.
The Oil level must always be checked with the box in gear and at Idle. One of the really big problems occurs when these engines are mounted on a downward angle when coupled to a shaft. It is really hard to judge the correct oil level and the amount of Oil has to be just right. On a Saildrive, I expect the Engine/box to be level. So shouldn't be a problem.

You did indeed say to check it. unfortunately I was 1000km away by then :( Nonetheless, I'm kinda pissed about the level that was in there. I don't have  a measure on how much was "too much" (I will ask). Was it 1L too much ? 0.5L? just 100 mL? no specifics...

Mostly i'm annoyed because I paid professionals to take care of it while I'm miles away from the boat. True, I didn't check the oil level in the saildrive (I did the engine, cooling, battery etc. ) before this trip, as I expected (wrongly?) that the initial service guy would get it right, and that the guy who launched the boat only 1 week earlier would also check it along with the motor check he performed (I'm still to ask). What still amazes me though, is that the problem only turned up after 2 weeks and 20h of motoring, and a couple of those days included a few hours on the iron spinnaker at a time.

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If the clunk occurred only in neutral then it could be engaging gear spasmodically due to incorrect adjustment of selector or similar, the heat present could induce the selection if it was slightly off. When it clunks can you move just the gear selector arm slightly one way or another to see if the clunk goes away? But if it makes the noise when drive is engaged makes this less viable!!    Does it do it both in reverse or forward? Can you isolate the clunk to either the motor or saildrive? I have read about the oil type change for earlier saildrive models, has the oil been changed? Was it the correct type?

Lots of questions for a crazy problem.

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16 hours ago, wheels said:

I think it is because Volvo would have to be the most common installation to come across, that due to share numbers, you are going to come across more problems. As IT said, it is usually the additional parts for marinisation that cause issues on the engines themselves. And that tends to be across the board on all makes of engines. The only issue I have with Volvo is the price tag on parts.
 

I agree with the comments from IT and wheels and bear in mind  the core engine for the smaller volvos is a Shibaura/Perkins

Volvo then buy their engines from Perkins, all three names are on the OEM plate for my D1-20

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shibaura_(company)

https://www.oemoffhighway.com/engines/press-release/10945825/perkins-and-ihi-shibaura-continue-joint-venture-to-bring-compact-engines-to-equipment-industry

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ok, here's an update. Not a big one, but something nonetheless.

Got in touch with the professionals (composite boat builder and full service guys in Brest - recommended by Pogo Structures) who launched the boat in July before we got there. They essentially recommissioned after the extended winter layup. They were down there this week installing a new stanchion ...

Saildrive oil level check (and alt belt tension) was part of their prestart check-list. Nothing out of the ordinary, and certainly everything within tolerance. 

So, although we don't know yet how much oil the Volvo tech removed from the saildrive, it sounds like it was not a lot, and certainly not enough "too much" to cause overheating or other trouble etc. 

So we're still none the wiser w.r.t. identifying the actual problem here.

 

Bummer...

 

 

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 29/08/2020 at 12:15 AM, DrWatson said:

So, although we don't know yet how much oil the Volvo tech removed from the saildrive, it sounds like it was not a lot, and certainly not enough "too much" to cause overheating or other trouble etc. 

So we're still none the wiser w.r.t. identifying the actual problem here.

I forgot about this.
No not at all Doc. Just a little bit over is enough to cause major issues. If anything, it is best to be slightly under than over with the oil level.
Especially if the Engine/box install is on a downward angle for a direct to shaft coupling, these things become a major headache. Advice was to fill with exactly the quantity of oil the service manual stated the box takes and not to use the Dip stick at all. And in one case I know of, the mechanic reduced even that amount of oil. Even slightly reduced, there is enough oil to get picked up and run around all gears and bearings.

I can't be sure, as I have never known just why a slightly over fill box causes so much grief. But I have always thought the addition of a little Moreys For Oil additive would help. This stuff increase the EP strength and the oil "sticks" to anything that moves and gets carried around all gears and into bearings even if they are clear of the main bath of oil.

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