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Price for Davidson 28 1977


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I spent most of my working life presenting low offers. What i observed was silly low offers were less effective than "reasonable but a bit light".

The silly offer would just piss the vendor off and make the rest of the negotiations much harder  . I found it better to start near where you want to end up. Then when you get a counter offer (won't happen if you start too low) say " I love your boat and would pay that if I could, but this is all I have".

But what would I know. 

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Thankyou BP. Insulting the seller with a cynically low offer is not a great way forward , especially when the object is worth the asking price.

We're used to seeing boats and cars and houses historically in a buyers market.

Here's an idea, houses are not at the moment. Cars are not at the moment, who would have expected a buoyant new and second hand car market.  And brokers are short of stock at the top end in the boat market.  We might be about to see some trickle down.

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the value of a new motor cannot be overstated,  i spent last christmas fighting an old motor because i could not get parts for it,  nothing actually wrong with it,  ran perfectly, had low hours etc then something broke an being an 1987 motor spare parts were nearly impossible to get and certainly didnt arrive the day after you needed them. Using replacement parts from other manufactures helped but didnt solve the mian issues

got rid of it in April, put a new one in and kissed goodbye to 30k but could not be happier.  probably added maybe 10k to the value of the boat if i am lucky but the peace of mind is priceless

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Another good point thanks YE. I need to do the same next year myself,  sick of chasing parts and paying usurous prices for a 30 year old motor.

I have a friend who bought a D 28 for 14 k a year ago, seems fine. But there's no way you get the OP boats inventory including a basically new motor for the extra 10 k. 

I'd negotiate a little perhaps based on inspection but also be prepared to just pay it and go sailing , job done. 

In the meantime there's other people who've looked at the same boat no doubt thinking coulda woulda shoulda in a few months.

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Quite a few of the glass D28's had osmosis, dare I say it they are known for it (with due apologies to D28 owners past and present). Osmosis is not the big bogeyman it once was but it would be worth enquiring if it has had any remedial treatment in that area. I know of a local all GRP one that sold this week for somewhere around 20k I think. All uup if the wooden top is mint,the engine has been upgraded, the sails, running and standing rigging are in good to very good condition and the accessories are good then 20K would seem good value to me.

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Buying any production yacht from the 80s era it will more than likely have the 80s motor,need new sails etc hence why you can pick them up for silly prices. Most have only 10hps and 10 is too small for d28.Sat along side Moari rock holding our in a sw blow and tide going out,not fun.

40 yrs on and the osmosis problem should of been discovered by now.

Buy a vessel for 20k more than likely need to spend 10k + so probably look at vessels with work thats been done for 35k.

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Just a quick warning if you come across this listing by "Jason" aka "Rudolf Shack" aka "rob289" aka "jason7773". He has multiple trademe identities and phone numbers and lots of BS stories, often involving his alleged dying mother and a deal which can't be refused. DO NOT BELIEVE a single word that comes out of his mouth. He's very good at using putty, bog and a lick of paint and making a wreck look like a nice boat. Be VEEEERRRYYY careful. Get an expert to look over any boat he has been near.

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/boats-marine/yachts/keeler/listing/2867300902?bof=Dj3LAUED

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On 19/11/2020 at 2:36 PM, Black Panther said:

. I found it better to start near where you want to end up. Then when you get a counter offer (won't happen if you start too low) say " I love your boat and would pay that if I could, but this is all I have".

 

Exactly what happened when we bought Above the Fold.  We gave the dealer our top number. He came back with something like: "If you can just come up a couple of grand, you'd get it." We replied that we'd have to sell a grandchild to get any more cash and resigned ourselves to not getting the boat. We were sitting in a pizza joint in Kingsland later that evening, drowning our disappointment, when the dealer called to say the owners had accepted our offer.

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On 20/11/2020 at 8:36 AM, Black Panther said:

I spent most of my working life presenting low offers. What i observed was silly low offers were less effective than "reasonable but a bit light".

The silly offer would just piss the vendor off and make the rest of the negotiations much harder  . I found it better to start near where you want to end up. Then when you get a counter offer (won't happen if you start too low) say " I love your boat and would pay that if I could, but this is all I have".

But what would I know. 

Good words there.

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2 hours ago, Frank said:

The budget for a re-engine on my Carpenter 29 was approx 16K by doing the work myself, 20 to 22 K if I replaced the Sail drive leg as well. 

a thumbsuck rule for total re-engine cost for an "end to end" shaft drive replacement is double the engine cost (for a new engine). Could be a little less depending on how much you can do yourself. A saildrive replacement will be a little less than that factor

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1 hour ago, marinheiro said:

a thumbsuck rule for total re-engine cost for an "end to end" shaft drive replacement is double the engine cost (for a new engine). Could be a little less depending on how much you can do yourself. A saildrive replacement will be a little less than that factor

That's about right. New engine was 14k, total cost old engine out and new one in 23k. That's a 30 hp.

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On 22/11/2020 at 8:51 AM, marinheiro said:

a thumbsuck rule for total re-engine cost for an "end to end" shaft drive replacement is double the engine cost (for a new engine). Could be a little less depending on how much you can do yourself. A saildrive replacement will be a little less than that factor

Yep, agree with that, anecdotally I heard of a 34 footer where the instructions were " Replace the engine and send me the bill"

50K later !

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it all depends on what you have, boat and engine, and what you are going to.

I wrote an article about that for Island Time a while back, and I chose the easiest engine to fit to my engine space for that reason. See

I can certainly see how you could spend an additional $15K + if there was lots of boat building to do, or changing from Sail Drive to shaft, or vice versa, or had to move mounts and structure etc.

 

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57 minutes ago, Young Entertainer said:

geez and i thought i paid up for install, mine was 22k engine, saildrive, and prop,  install was 4k and fridge change about the same

its swings and roundabouts. When you buy your sail drive it comes with the leg, prop and possibly the moulded engine base.

On a shaft drive install, particularly if you are increasing the installed power which requires an increased shaft size, to get to this equivalent point you need  to replace the shaft coupling, shaft, stern gland, cutlass bearings, strut and prop. Then you will need a new stern tube (those GRP tube/strut assemblies Henleys make are a good option)  and possibly engine bed mods.

Many engine replacements of either config will require a new exhaust (I had to increase from a 2" to 3" exhaust, ridiculous for a 54hp NA engine but Yanmar would not budge), a new shifter and cables will be a good idea. If you have a second alternator and/or fridge compressor you will be looking at mounts for these, pulleys etc. 

So yes, it is easy for costs to run away if you are not careful

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