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Prop shaft to Flexi plate flange connection


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Thanks for all the info guys; excellent coverage of the many variables.

Around five years ago launched after a massive rebuild, new hull, new floors, stations,deck, and engine bed.(Of course)All DIM. (With a good mate) 

Prop shaft checked at machine shop for conformity. Reco'ed kiwi prop by John.

Relevant to this,new cutlass bearing, new Duramax ultra X packing, R&D flexi coupler checked, multiple re-alignments initial and in water. 

Has been excellent to-date. Next to no drip at dock, minimal underway. 3/min. Minimal heating.(Hand stay-on-test)

Recently started excessive dripping, so nipped up the stern gland, approx two flats of the hex.

Within 5-10mins underway overheated stern gland and MELTED nylon grease feed tube. 

Abort summer holiday, back to dock and repack. Now its not happy in terms of drip rate/ heat and

some new vibration.......so could be any of the above.

If new prop shaft, 2205 or 2507?  (My keel bolts are 2205)

2507 has to be machined down and polished from 30mm.

 

 

 

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What’s a dripless  1” kiwi shaft seal currently cost?

I see Henleys  adapt tail of existing gland to take the KSS.

Seems to do properly would require removing gland and stern tube and replace with composite water lubed stern log glue in.

Not ready for that level of masochism.

Have to at least finish HVUS’s land locked ensuite first.

 

 

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Henleys adapted our packing gland for a Kiwi seal. Cant remember the cost, part of the engine replacement. 

Sudden dramatic  change is odd, esp with your level of detail and maintenance. Im suspicious of that braid...

Normally things deteriorate slowly with packing glands

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3 hours ago, Dtwo said:

recommend Chatfield,bonus if it does leak you can undo the flange and place packing in.Got one about 4yrs ago 1 inch shaft $450??was loking at pps where it relies on 2 flanges pushing together but have read about why they can leak.

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