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Halyard for 11.6meter cruiser.


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Having to replace a Main Halyard 12mm that has  some sort of Hi spec core its done 20 years and come to the end of its life. But there seems quite a few choices and prices. Are there any riggers out there can give me direction I dont want super high spec but I also enjoy sailing and dont want to be revisiting the mast to retension the halyard etc.

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1 hour ago, vesper1 said:

Having to replace a Main Halyard 12mm that has  some sort of Hi spec core its done 20 years and come to the end of its life. But there seems quite a few choices and prices. Are there any riggers out there can give me direction I dont want super high spec but I also enjoy sailing and dont want to be revisiting the mast to retension the halyard etc.

You can go much smaller than 12mm but you are going to be limited by the size and working load of your clutch.

At the highend you can do end-to-end splicing of sk99. I did a 4 to 5 to 6 to 8 to 10 so we had 10 at the clutch and 4mm up most of the mast. The 4mm is 3000kg breaking load - which is rediculous unless you regularly hoist medium sized sedans up your rig.

NB: I recommend getting this professionally done if it is even remotely possible that you'd hoist a person up the mast on it. 

SK99 is going to give you the best performance but at the highest price point. 

Vectran is a great choice for a cruiser/racer at a slightly lower price point than SK99. 

This is imho an excellent halyard:

https://chainsropesandanchors.co.nz/Rope-Cordage/Yacht-halyard/10mm-Vectran-Cored-Racing-Braid

 

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1 hour ago, CarpeDiem said:

You can go much smaller than 12mm but you are going to be limited by the size and working load of your clutch.

At the highend you can do end-to-end splicing of sk99. I did a 4 to 5 to 6 to 8 to 10 so we had 10 at the clutch and 4mm up most of the mast. The 4mm is 3000kg breaking load - which is rediculous unless you regularly hoist medium sized sedans up your rig.

NB: I recommend getting this professionally done if it is even remotely possible that you'd hoist a person up the mast on it. 

SK99 is going to give you the best performance but at the highest price point. 

Vectran is a great choice for a cruiser/racer at a slightly lower price point than SK99. 

This is imho an excellent halyard:

https://chainsropesandanchors.co.nz/Rope-Cordage/Yacht-halyard/10mm-Vectran-Cored-Racing-Braid

 

Hi  KM....would you hoist a  crew (or yourself )up a spliced main halyard as described here.... ;4 to 6 to 8 ?

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The only thing I would add, is that for a cruiser, it is more about handling rather than strength. As said, a small diameter will sufice as far as strength goes. But hell on your hands if you normally haul the sail up by hand initially, then winch on the tension. I would not go less than 12mm for comfort. 14mm, provided your sheeves, clutch and winch tailer can handle it of course.

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19 hours ago, KM... said:

A crew, not a problem. Me, hell No :)

Na, if done well using the right gear the only problem will be the voice in your head screaming 'TOO SMALL get me off this now!!!'

We commonly make halyards and other things by laminating like Carpe has and often for the same reason. small is light and plenty strong but a right bitch to hang on to with cold hands or existing jammers so we layer other covers on top to bulk it out where needed. 

So, Pork Chop has 7 x 12mm halyards. What do you reckon the weight saving would be is you did us a tranche of these laminated replacement?

P measurement is about 14m

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11 hours ago, Addem said:

So, Pork Chop has 7 x 12mm halyards. What do you reckon the weight saving would be is you did us a tranche of these laminated replacement?

P measurement is about 14m

My guess is about 3-4 Heinekens. 

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On 11/03/2021 at 3:17 PM, KM... said:

Talking UHMwPE in general, splicing is preferred as this fibre and knots are knot mates. Tie a bowline in this material and BOOM your strength drops about 50-60% instantly. So given the option splice. But in saying that many use the product not for strength but for their very low to no stretch so if that's what it's about knots make no difference to that. So Mr C you'll need to suss how much strength you need verse the size of line. If the required strength is pushing the lines break load then splice, if there is a big gap then tieing a knot is fine.

Notes:

UHMwPE = Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylene

Spectra and Dyneema are brand names of a UHMwPE fibre made by Honeywell (some by Toyobo in Japan) and Royal DSM respectively. They are big in NZ as we are a tiny country so one or 2 players can dominate which closes the door to other options like Tokilon which is made by a mob called Mitsi thingy whotsit. These are all manufacturing very good constantly improving fibres.

Under those brand names we get rope manufacturer ones like the most well known Dynex, now called Dynice as they lost a court case over who owned the name. Then there is Armare with Superround, Speedplus and a few other variations, Marlow with D12 and a few others, Fineline with Advantage, Samson with a shed load. These are ropes made using assorted UHMwPE's, many being dyneema or spectra but some using what we call 'Chineema', chinese made UHMwPE's.

Some Chineemas are fine, some a bit iffy, some utter and complete sh*t likely to kill you. In the 4x4 game many are having dyneema bust as low loads...errr, hello, you've been sold Chineema dude. Generally in the rope game reputable manufacturers will use reputable Chineemas. But we have rope manufacturers selling Chineema as Dyneema, to us that is a sign of if they are going to 'fudge' the materials what else are they willing to fudge.

These UHMwPE ropes are Class 2 ropes. Std polyester double braids are Class 1 ropes.

You can splice bog std Polyester using a Class 2 splice perfectly fine, fiddler than a Class 1 but will work.

DO NOT splice a Class 2 rope using a Class 1 splice, all that does it totally negate any and all goodness the fancy core has. It also means you've just waste a shed load of coin.

What are class 1 and class 2 splices? Is it different techniques?

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